Recent content by MrGiggles

From what I have seen, many manufacturers use carpeted plywood for that opening, so if you do hit it while loading, it won't damage the boat, and if you're running down any wet gravel roads it'll help keep the tire from slinging grit onto the boat.

If the lights are on and the trolling motor seems to be online then that pretty much eliminates any sort of power supply issue. I'm not sure what model you have, I do know that on the Terrova and Powerdrive, if you disassemble the head, the wires for the motor can be disconnected there for...

I could certainly see the big wake boat owners that might burn 20-30 gallons in a day hesitating a little bit. Gas is still cheap-ish here at $3.09 currently. Takes me about 3.5 gallons in the truck and close to that much in the boat to fish for an afternoon, not too expensive as far as hobbies...

I converted a 9.8 Merc to electric start a few years ago. On that motor everything was different, so I found a cheap donor from a pontoon that had everything I needed. In that boat, I had a single group 29 deep cycle for everything. When the outboard was running full tilt, voltage would...

Better viewing angle to start with. Can flip a bait underhand quite easily, and land a fish without working around the gunnel. Smaller jons won't see as much benefit since the gunnels aren't very tall to start with, but in a bigger deep-v style boat, it feels like they are always in the way when...

Grab an extra battery and a 200 watt solar panel. Swap it when needed, the solar panel should charge it up in without issue during a day's worth of sunlight.

There's a whole bunch of boats out there with the chargers mounted in the bilge right next to the tank. If it's installed right there should never be a spark from the charger.

If you're premixing for an older outboard, I'd say you're safe. That chainsaw oil is likely quite a bit better than whatever was around when that outboard was new. I wouldn't run it in anything with oil injection, oils not designed for injection won't flow through the screens/filters and you'll...

If they are all seized, I'd say you're best off stripping the ignition parts and lower units for resale, the rest can go to the melting pot. No doubt you could probably make a buck or two, but it's a significant time investment, and requires a lot of real estate to store the stuff in the mean...

I'd cut your pieces, glue and screw them together, and let it cure then remove the screws. Install it in the boat, drill all your through holes and do any final trimming/fitting. Then seal it.

There's something wrong with your truck, that's not a complaint I've ever heard from other Super Duty owners. This is all true. The factory wiring is usually 8 gauge, pretty much only designed to charge a very small breakaway battery. Trailers with a big battery and electric jacks, winches...

Someone must have made a Facebook post with a mess of fish, or was playing a prank.

Splashwell. On many setups with an in-floor tank, the rear section runs underneath the splashwell, and that's where the fill, return, and pickup fittings will go. The filler neck often runs up through the splashwell, most pumps will reach there easily and you don't need to climb into the boat...

Been that way for probably 30 years now. Some even have a clutched pulley that totally disengages the armature when there is no load. It should still respond to added loads like an external battery just fine I would think.

Tires with a larger diameter will wear less in a given distance than their smaller counterpart. More wear material, and less revolutions to go the distance. Same concept with wheel bearings. Less RPM, less wear, less heat. That said you are only talking about a 10% difference, give or take...