Recent content by MrGiggles

There's a whole bunch of boats out there with the chargers mounted in the bilge right next to the tank. If it's installed right there should never be a spark from the charger.

If you're premixing for an older outboard, I'd say you're safe. That chainsaw oil is likely quite a bit better than whatever was around when that outboard was new. I wouldn't run it in anything with oil injection, oils not designed for injection won't flow through the screens/filters and you'll...

If they are all seized, I'd say you're best off stripping the ignition parts and lower units for resale, the rest can go to the melting pot. No doubt you could probably make a buck or two, but it's a significant time investment, and requires a lot of real estate to store the stuff in the mean...

I'd cut your pieces, glue and screw them together, and let it cure then remove the screws. Install it in the boat, drill all your through holes and do any final trimming/fitting. Then seal it.

There's something wrong with your truck, that's not a complaint I've ever heard from other Super Duty owners. This is all true. The factory wiring is usually 8 gauge, pretty much only designed to charge a very small breakaway battery. Trailers with a big battery and electric jacks, winches...

Someone must have made a Facebook post with a mess of fish, or was playing a prank.

Splashwell. On many setups with an in-floor tank, the rear section runs underneath the splashwell, and that's where the fill, return, and pickup fittings will go. The filler neck often runs up through the splashwell, most pumps will reach there easily and you don't need to climb into the boat...

Been that way for probably 30 years now. Some even have a clutched pulley that totally disengages the armature when there is no load. It should still respond to added loads like an external battery just fine I would think.

Tires with a larger diameter will wear less in a given distance than their smaller counterpart. More wear material, and less revolutions to go the distance. Same concept with wheel bearings. Less RPM, less wear, less heat. That said you are only talking about a 10% difference, give or take...

I'd say that $500 is way better spent elsewhere.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and go for a ride. See if fuel pressure drops or stays steady at speed. Will tell you if the problem is in the pumps or supply side, or in the motor itself. That should have a schrader port on the fuel rail that will work with any automotive style fuel pressure...

I could see it as being very handy for a deck structure, but I'm not sure why you would want to use it for the subfloor. You likely already have an aluminum subfloor structure under the current plywood, no need to reinvent the wheel. Unless you were wanting to build a new deck with it, I think...

You still want another fuse as close to your positive bus (or the cutoff switch) as possible. Just relying on the fuse at the switch panel, you still have several feet of unprotected wire, it's a fire hazard.

I tried them a couple times and didn't really have much luck with them, but I know a lot of people have used them with success.

In addition to your main breaker, you will want another fuse or breaker just after your positive bus so the fuse panel feed wire is protected. Likely 7.5 or 10 amps for 16 gauge wire. Without it, you would be potentially running 40-50 amps (whatever your main fuse is rated at) through a 16 gauge...