TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Blog
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Jet Jon Build Pics ...VIDEOS LINKED!!!!!!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support TinBoats.net:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="PSG-1" data-source="post: 227813" data-attributes="member: 6937"><p>Well, I never said I didn't have any issues with cavitation, because it will cavitate if you try to take a curve at too high of a speed, and it will cavitate when you get in chop that's more than 6 inches in height. But in light wind chop, and under most average conditions, no problems.</p><p></p><p>I had less cavitation with my top loader grate, for sure. But again, I wanted a weedless system, so, I had to trade off one advantage for the other.</p><p></p><p>BTW, here's the modification I made to the center strake:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]29878[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>OK, maybe not exactly flush cut, but definitely flattening out the V for a couple of feet like I mentioned.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]29879[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Ideally, and on the next build I know to do this.....take out the ENTIRE center V of the boat, and weld a piece of 1/4 x 2" or 1/4 x 3" flat bar along the entire length of the cutout. I didn't do it on this one, because the boat was already built, and once you get forward of the engine compartment, there is foam in the hull, I didn't want to burn it up with the process of welding, and I figured at least by reducing the V for the length that I did would have an effect. And it does. </p><p></p><p> Taking out the V and using 1/4 plate, removes the center V, but still gives a lot of structural integrity by using a piece of material that's twice the thickness of the hull itself.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PSG-1, post: 227813, member: 6937"] Well, I never said I didn't have any issues with cavitation, because it will cavitate if you try to take a curve at too high of a speed, and it will cavitate when you get in chop that's more than 6 inches in height. But in light wind chop, and under most average conditions, no problems. I had less cavitation with my top loader grate, for sure. But again, I wanted a weedless system, so, I had to trade off one advantage for the other. BTW, here's the modification I made to the center strake: [ATTACH type="full" alt="100_0213.JPG"]29878._xfImport[/ATTACH] OK, maybe not exactly flush cut, but definitely flattening out the V for a couple of feet like I mentioned. [ATTACH type="full" alt="100_0216.JPG"]29879._xfImport[/ATTACH] Ideally, and on the next build I know to do this.....take out the ENTIRE center V of the boat, and weld a piece of 1/4 x 2" or 1/4 x 3" flat bar along the entire length of the cutout. I didn't do it on this one, because the boat was already built, and once you get forward of the engine compartment, there is foam in the hull, I didn't want to burn it up with the process of welding, and I figured at least by reducing the V for the length that I did would have an effect. And it does. Taking out the V and using 1/4 plate, removes the center V, but still gives a lot of structural integrity by using a piece of material that's twice the thickness of the hull itself. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Boats
Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Jet Jon Build Pics ...VIDEOS LINKED!!!!!!
Top