Recent content by MrGiggles

Splashwell. On many setups with an in-floor tank, the rear section runs underneath the splashwell, and that's where the fill, return, and pickup fittings will go. The filler neck often runs up through the splashwell, most pumps will reach there easily and you don't need to climb into the boat...

Been that way for probably 30 years now. Some even have a clutched pulley that totally disengages the armature when there is no load. It should still respond to added loads like an external battery just fine I would think.

Tires with a larger diameter will wear less in a given distance than their smaller counterpart. More wear material, and less revolutions to go the distance. Same concept with wheel bearings. Less RPM, less wear, less heat. That said you are only talking about a 10% difference, give or take...

I'd say that $500 is way better spent elsewhere.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and go for a ride. See if fuel pressure drops or stays steady at speed. Will tell you if the problem is in the pumps or supply side, or in the motor itself. That should have a schrader port on the fuel rail that will work with any automotive style fuel pressure...

I could see it as being very handy for a deck structure, but I'm not sure why you would want to use it for the subfloor. You likely already have an aluminum subfloor structure under the current plywood, no need to reinvent the wheel. Unless you were wanting to build a new deck with it, I think...

You still want another fuse as close to your positive bus (or the cutoff switch) as possible. Just relying on the fuse at the switch panel, you still have several feet of unprotected wire, it's a fire hazard.

I tried them a couple times and didn't really have much luck with them, but I know a lot of people have used them with success.

In addition to your main breaker, you will want another fuse or breaker just after your positive bus so the fuse panel feed wire is protected. Likely 7.5 or 10 amps for 16 gauge wire. Without it, you would be potentially running 40-50 amps (whatever your main fuse is rated at) through a 16 gauge...

I'd probably just haul it off to a welder. That's not a bad repair at all, welding in a filler strip would take an hour or so at most. Couple hundred bucks and it's fixed forever. I don't have much faith in epoxies. They can work exceptionally well as temporary or "in a pinch" fixes, but not as...

If your fuse panel has breakers, there is no need for additional protection, although you will want a fuse or breaker on the main power feed wire as close to the battery as possible. Size it to the gauge of the feed wire. Yes, you will likely need a ground bus bar. I'd mount it close to our...

Lakes here got crazy in 2020 and 2021. Prior to then I never had trouble finding a parking spot unless it was a holiday weekend. Now it's every weekend in the warmer months. Weekdays are how weekends used to be. It has tapered off some, but not like before. That's one of the biggest reasons...

Hold the recoil spring in your hand, thumb and index fingers through the middle. Pull the tag end, wrap it, pull it, repeat while holding it together until it's pulled tight enough to fit into the pocket. Your hands will get sore, and it might take a couple tries. I'm not aware of any tool that...

6hp might plane the 1436. The Richline would likely be better with a 9.9 or 15hp. If it were mine, I'd rig the flat bottom with a 6hp and try to find a 9.9 or 15hp for the Richline. Use the jon on the river, and the Richline on the lake.

Don't think it matters nearly as much with those surface gap plugs. Run what you can get.