1974 RHYNCRAFT MAKEOVER

Attention to detail sure shows.

Still kicking along. Been working on the front platform & still sanding the interior. Got 12 ft of 1/8th aliumuim for the floor. Working on the rear seat. Giving myself the option to sit left or right of the rudder ...... or to have my Sweetie by my side ..... Seeing some 60° in the future forecast.... but still not warm enough to paint.

Still actively pursuing projects on my boat. Not able to paint yet, due to temperatures not at the 70° mark.
Just finishing up the "lay out" of the front platform. Everything fits as it should, but not fastened yet. Got plenty to do before the platform is permanently installed. (more sanding, gflex the rivets w/heat, etching, washdown, wipedown, 2 coats of interior painting)

Best part is, that I feel like I'm on schedule for "spring time", without rushing, and making stupid mistakes.

It got to 70°+ ..... bought FASCO'S STEEL FLEX & DURABAK Products in October. I have been dying to see what these colors are going to look like in real time, rather than the vendors web site.

First application was Fasco's. After the preparation of the aliumium, I mixed up a tan pigment that I purchased from a Hobby store. Put on two coats, and very pleased. Picture does not due justice, but it looks like the "dessert storm" tan.


My next paint job was the plywood that will be the front casting platform. I used Durabak Beige. My first coat was the "smooth" texture. Let that soak in, and added the second coat of "rough" texture. (ground up rubber particles)



I also did the support wall that supports the platform, and entrance to my storage. I used Durabak Beige "smooth" with a textured roller - (brain fart) - got too much pucker. Tomorrow I'll sand it with #40 grit, and after prep work, I'll put a coat of smooth Durabak, with the proper roller.

After much anticipation, I was able to install the wooden transom, without tearing it apart, or scratching up the varnish.
Also, I was able to install the 1/8" aliumium transom cap, that will tighten up the boat, and add additional protection to the original transom. Now I'm able to weld that in place, and fix a couple stress points that have cracket in it's previous life.



Also J.B. welding the holes in the floor where the transom brackets were installed. They did not match up once it was all put togeather. Reason being; the new transom is a tad thicker.

Scrambling around on my knees, sanding the factory paint off the interior ribs and floor is almost over. About 99% of the interior is sanded down to raw aliumium. A few little spots, and the rub rail need attention on the inside, then I'll find some "young guns", and flip Her.

Today the Bimini Top was put together, and the six mounting spots were marked along the top rail. I'll weld 1" × 6" angle at 4 of these spots to mount the hold down brackets. The other two will mount on the transom angle plates at each corner.
Mated up the front casting deck, installed supports for a seat mount and framing underneath to join both pieces of plywood.



Tomorrow I'll seal the welded seams in the floor with AC Delco Medium Body Seam Sealing Compound. Weld the 6 brackets for the Bimini mounts and 4 stress spots along the transom. Then weld the transom angle brackets to a 1/4 × 16" aliumium bar, battery boxes, then we'll turn it over, and start prepping the underside.

Took a break to get some Tractor time -
Finished up all the spots I wanted to weld. Added a base for the supports for the Bimini top. Reconstructed the transom supports (less holes drilled through the floor)
Added the battery compartments to the front floor section. Cleaned up some dings, and crevices along the top rail. Almost time to paint.
BEFORE:

AFTER:

BEFORE:

AFTER:


BEFORE:

AFTER:

This pic is the intended pic of the finished transom(less brackets)

A lot of care and craftsmanship is showing in your work. Well done.

Jumped ship from my tin boat to my big boat. I'll be back to finishing up the tin boat mid October.
My 20 hp YAMAHA got delivered, and stowed away. Ordered October 15, 2021, got it July 10, 2022.
All good, Just checking in ......

BAY BEAGLE said:

Done with the inside preparations. Only thing left is paint. Time to flip Her over, and prepare getting the bottom sanded, roughed up, and fix a small leak. Leak came from "beaching it too many times" Need to wait on 70° degrees once again, to paint

so bottoms up!!

Click to expand...

Took a long siesta from my Ryancraft project. Had alot of catching up to do on the farm and shop. Took longer than I imagined to build my strength up from transplant.
Flipped the ole gal over, and now have the bottom Etched and sanded.

Good thread. Thanks for posting all the work you've done. It looks great and I'm sure others will learn from this thread.

Temperature is now in range, we are back on the Ryancraft. After all the sanding, etching, preparation - our first and second coat of steel flex (dessert sand) went on today. We'll give it 5 days to cure, and etch the 2nd coat, and add a 3rd coat to fill the voids. These "yougart" cups made the premixing easy.

The cure of the first two coats completed. Etched the second coat (very easy, compared to all the etching). Took a leaf blower, and blew the dust, followed with a wash down of acetone. That was followed with a "tact cloth" to remove any & all dust.

BAY BEAGLE said:

The cure of the first two coats completed. Etched the second coat (very easy, compared to all the etching). Took a leaf blower, and blew the dust, followed with a wash down of acetone. That was followed with a "tact cloth" to remove any & all dust.

Click to expand...

Our next step was to apply the 3rd and last coat. We switched gears and went with a pan that would allow the steelflex mixture more room to minimize the cure (not to be sticky to quick, more work time). Used a small styrofoam roller for the last application. Had my helper hit the rivets with a brush, while I rolled behind Him.

BAY BEAGLE said:

Our next step was to apply the 3rd and last coat. We switched gears and went with a pan that would allow the steelflex mixture more room to minimize the cure (not to be sticky to quick, more work time). Used a small styrofoam roller for the last application. Had my helper hit the rivets with a brush, while I rolled behind Him.

Click to expand...

After the 5 day cure of the bottom, we will remove it from the trailer. Next is adding new bunks to the trailer & flipping Her over for the work on the insides. (the sides will be last, so we can seal all rivets that will be used for seats and front casting platform.