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Got started on it tonight. The oscillating tool helped break the top seal and then I moved to a flat pry bar which worked well. Need to try a long knife next like you suggested. It's a mixture of saturated and dry foam. The wet foam seems to comes out easier so at this point the more that's wet...

I haven't done much of anything to this boat since the last post, but finally got back to working on it this past week. I'll grab some pics but none to add at the moment. I removed the rear decking which is just some insanely thin aluminum laid over welded up angle and pour foam. I had...

Great advice. I was going to add something similar and forgot. What I was going to say is that if you have some spare wood material and some time, build a temporary deck and go try it out. And make sure to use it a bunch as is too. After a half dozen real fishing trips it will be pretty obvious...

The best thing a casting deck offers is that in building it you generate more storage. A small jon boat gets cluttered REAL fast and storage really makes fishing more enjoyable. Not a big deal if you are solo but add in another person and it gets annoying quick. Now with a 1236 that casting deck...

True. Could maybe get away with notching the top side at intervals along the bend too. I'd have to sit down and think about what I would really use the t-track for. A full length run seems a little excessive for my plans. Off hand, the things I'd like a t-track system for is a place to mount a...

Did you bend the t-track slightly? Looks like your gunnel has a light bend in it. Same as mine and I've been looking to do the same. Which product did you go with for the t-track or is it just some generic one off of Amazon?

Most people may disagree, but I don't mind pushing a 2 stroke motor above the recommended rpm range a bit. I try to keep my outboards in tip top shape primarily ensuring water pump is in order and carbs aren't running lean, I run ethanol free gas, add Yamalube, etc which is critical plus I have...

Thanks. I'd still like them, but it's not a big deal either. Don't go out of your way for me. But I'd love to see some progress pics for sure!

Any updates? I have not been able to work on mine. Have some welding issues I need to get evaluated before fully committing.

I may have to try that. I'm the second owner of my 2005 Silverado, which currently sits at 167,000 miles. Had it since 2012 or 2013 and honestly plan to drive it until it drops. I need to do a brake job sooner than later too.....as well as replace a few items in the front suspension system.

If you want to save a buck but still get quality stuff on the brake parts go buy from rockauto.com. I buy everything from them unless I specifically want to get the lifetime warranty stuff by Duralast from Autozone. I've even heard you can buy lifefetime warranty pads from Autozone and they will...

Those numbers are what I had in mind. I wish I had a good long shaft 25hp motor to try out though as that's what would ultimately go on it. I'm going to attempt to find an early 2000's Yamaha 25 3 cylinder, which is same motor as my 1988 30hp, to use for this rig but that may be tough to source...

Basically a dial indicator on a mount is secured somewhere where the indcator is in contact with the prop shaft. Zero the gauge and rotate the prop shaft while the lower unit itself is fixed/stationary and record the max and min changes on the gauge (aka runout). There is a spec for the...

I may experiment a little with some chemicals. To a degree it can peeled off which sounds like a pain but may be easier in the long run.

Honestly though the latest pics of the gear oil look fine to me. I'd for sure pressure test it while its drained though and you need to remove the lower when you do it so you can access all of the seals when its done.

I agree. I'd grab the prop shaft and trying moving it back an forth in all directions and see if you feel any play. If you can feel it then that isn't a good sign for your bearings. If it feels ok, then you could use a dial indicator and check for runout as you rotate the prop shaft.

I still need to update on the structural issues I have found but im going to hold off a bit longer. I removed the floor and a few other things for a better view and there are a lot of underlying issues with previously done poor repairs and other new cracks. I recently put on my Yamaha 30 and got...

Does the motor run good? Kinda looks like unburnt fuel/oil mix that can get produced when one cylinder isnt firing or something like that. It will be medium brown like that in those cases. I've had it happen twice and both times looked like that and were due to spark failing under load due to...

Ah, I see. I misread that. I have a 94 model that is remote. Not sure it will be apples to apples to yours but they were fairly similar from the 80s all the way til they basically did away with the 2 strokes in the late 2000s. I'll take a look and see what I can offer.

Have any pics from under the cowling? I'd assume if it was a remote model at some point it will have what you need to hook up throttle and shift cables. It probably had an electrical connector too for remote start, kill, choke etc but a lot of times those get cut off and rewired when going from...