Lonestar 14V Restoration

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jb93

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Bare hull - as shown. A few holes to be repaired. Most of them can fill with rivets, but some are oversized.
For the rivet size holes, what kind of rivet can I install easily? I have an air compressor, but not a rivet gun.
Can I install something that I can use a manual rivet gun that is a solid type rivet or do I have to use solid
aircraft rivets, air gun and bucking bar?

For loose solid rivets, I have done quite a bit of research on rebucking them. It looks like the bucking bar goes on
the inside of the rivet and the air gun/hammer is on the head (outside of the hull). If I use a pall peen hammer,
what size and how many hits should I start with and do it hit it like I am trying to drive a small nail...some force
but not full out slamming it?

For larger holes, should these be welded or can I use a carriage bolt and nut? I hate to do that, as I don't want
a big nut sticking out on the inside. What is a better option?

The ribs on this hull are close together, so I think it would support 3/8" plywood for floor. I plan to epoxy coat
the plywood, add 1 layer of glass to give it some texture and then paint top side. Glass will help stiffen it up. I
will use blue foam strips under plywood leaving some channels for water to more easily get out the back. I will
put 1/8" neoprene rubber strips over the top of the ribs so it has cushion/sound deadending between top of rib
and plywood. I know this is heavier than aluminum, but wood does not get as hot or as cold as sheet aluminum
and with the fiberglass and paint on it should be waterproof many years.

For transom - I need 1-1/2" thick wood. I can go with 3/4 plywood laminated up 2 thick or maybe just use a SYP
2 x 12 and cut it to fit the shape. I will epoxy coat either for water seal. 2x12 would be cheaper option, as the
transom is wider than 48" so i would have to buy a full sheet of plywood instead of just a half sheet.

Do I need to glue the wood to the transom with something or just bolt it in place with carriage bolts?

Thinking of painting the entire boat in tan then get some camo stencils and camo the sides and interior leaving the
bottom tan. I plan to take the trailer and have it sandblasted and then paint myself. I am restoring a 1957 Evinrude 18
tiller that will be the power. Boat has steering with rotary steering wheel. I would like to connect the motor that way,
but will need to investigate best way since it is tiller.

Want to splash by mid April, so gotta get moving. I welcome any input and some help on the questions I had.

AluminumBoat_zpsc6745e33.jpg
 
Nice rig! That sounds like a good plan to me. Looking forward to watching your project. Thanks for sharing.
 
I want to put in a false floor. With the v-hull the angles for supporting get a little complex. Based on BillHowardOutdoors Starcraft project, I am thinking of doing the following. Rivet 1 inch square aluminum tubing to the ribs towards the outside of the floor and then cut a 2x6 that follows the needed slope to create a middle support. The 2x6 would be epoxy sealed and then use l-brackets to rivet to the ribs and screw into the side of the 2x6 at each rib. Is this the easiest solution?

I glued up 2 layes of 3/4 Arauco ACX plywood from Home Depot for my transom. Some very nice looking plywood. Only saw one small void in the cut pieces. I plan to use polyester resin and wrap it in a layer of fiberglass to waterproof. I am going to use the rest of the sheet to make bench seats out of also coating in one layer of fiberglass. Will probably paint or gelcoat them to give finished look. Will post finished photos when done.

Proposedfloorsupports_zpsa6e5db09.jpg
 
I need some help with this floor. I have gotten the boat fully painted inside and out. Motor (1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18) is restored. I have benches made that are sealed and ready for carpet. Just need to decide on whether or not to put in a floor. I kind of don't want to for weight purposes, but I kind of do for sound deadening.

Exterior Finished

Lonestarexteriorpaint_zps9b4f3d82.jpg


Interior Ready for Build

Lonestarinteriorpaint_zpsd057a6ad.jpg


Motor Finished

sweetthang_zps66d88ae2.jpg



Can I use the 4th strake line from the center out (you can see the strake lines on inside photo above) as my guide for stringer width to make floor level? I am thinking using angle riveted to the top of each support with them extending out to the 4th strake line. This rising V shape has me sort of stumped.

Thanks!!
 
The floor will not add to much weight and provide you with a flat surface that you wont stumble on.
Nothing worse than stumbling over ribs on a curved hull in chop.
Since I already had a small laser I used it, just now detailed it in my build. I had the floor laid out in 5 mins once established.
You could use a water level just as easily.
Going by the strakes I am unsure how that will work.
 
Resurrecting my project. I would like some input on my plans and tactics as I proceed.

NOTE - all red lines are put in to show level lengthwise and side to side.

Picture 1 shows the exterior of the boat with a red line front to back on gunnel and red line side to side across the boat. I adjusted boat
on trailer so that it is level front to back and side to side.



Pictures 2 and 3 shows a stringer going the length of floor. It is a 2x8 cedar board that I sealed in epoxy. It is sandwiched between 2" aluminum angle on each side and the top has been cut so that it is also level with the boat longwise. It is 2" tall at the back and just a little over 7 inch tall at the front of the boat. I am using 3/16 1-1/4 aluminum angle for the cross supports that I am thinking of just screwing to ribs with self tapping SS screws. Right now, I have cut them for every other rib...which makes them about 19" on center. Doing them 9.5" on center seems overkill but concerned 19" OC is a little too much? I plan to top with either sealed plywood 1/2" thick or sealed cedar boards 1 x 4. I like the idea of cedar boards sealed with epoxy. Make it easier to fit those outside boards that need trimmed to fit. Plus I think it would look so cool.





Questions
1. Good plan overall for stringer and subfloor support system? The cedar board is not that heavy..maybe 25-30 lbs and I like the idea of some weight down low for stability. I have a 25hp Johnson to push it with...vintage 1955 :D

2. Is 19" OC for the aluminum angle on every other rib going to be supportive enough or recommend doing every rib for 9.5" OC?

3. How can I measure to cut the floor to fit? I was thinking of laying cardboard sheet across width of boat and scribing it from underneath...cutting to match the hull shape at top of gunnels then split it longwise and adjust them to fit the floor then tape them back together. I can only find 48" x 72" cardboard sheets, so I would have to do it in 3 sections. My cedar 1x4 sealed boards are a potential solution that I think has a coolness factor. I don't see much of that on this site, so it must not be looked on favorably??

Thanks everyone.
 
Questions
1. Good plan overall for stringer and subfloor support system? The cedar board is not that heavy..maybe 25-30 lbs and I like the idea of some weight down low for stability. I have a 25hp Johnson to push it with...vintage 1955 :D


The plan is good. Cedar will not rot, neither will the aluminum. Using a stringer right in the middle will further stabilize the boat.

2. Is 19" OC for the aluminum angle on every other rib going to be supportive enough or recommend doing every rib for 9.5" OC?


Unless you get your flooring cut exactly perfect, meaning the top of your boards or plywood butt up against the hull and your cuts are angled just like the contour of the hull where the wood hits the sides, the floor will flex noticeably, especially near the sides halfway between your aluminum u-channel supports. Doubling it up won't add more than a few pounds of weight, yeah, the aluminum channel can be spendy, but in the long run, you'll be happier with the sturdier floor. Running them every 9.5 inches would also allow you to use true 1/2" flooring, which will actually save weight.

3. How can I measure to cut the floor to fit? I was thinking of laying cardboard sheet across width of boat and scribing it from underneath...cutting to match the hull shape at top of gunnels then split it longwise and adjust them to fit the floor then tape them back together. I can only find 48" x 72" cardboard sheets, so I would have to do it in 3 sections. My cedar 1x4 sealed boards are a potential solution that I think has a coolness factor. I don't see much of that on this site, so it must not be looked on favorably??

Scribing can work, but I've found it to be easier to start at the back of the boat, measure the width, making sure I measure 1/2" to 3/4" above the stringers, because it's more important that the flooring is flush to the sides of the hull at the topside of the flooring. Make marks every 4 inches from the back of the boat going forward on your center stringer and measure the width at each and every one of those marks. Transfer those measurements onto a big piece of spliced-together cardboard, use something flexible to bend and hold in place over all your marks and "connect the dots". Draw your first lines a little on the big side, cut the template out, place in bottom of boat, and fine-tune scribe lines. Just make sure you put down some boards first so your template is on the same plane as the topside of your finished floor. Scribe your lines along the sides of the hull, but don't quite cut all of that away. It may take a couple of tweaks. Same goes for when you cut the wood. Cut it out just a bit bigger than your template, and set your angle on your jigsaw or whatever to be shallower than the hull. Note: The angle of hull walls continuously changes, so following it exactly with your cuts is nigh short of impossible. You might end up putting your wood in and out several times, removing bits here and there to allow for nice fit around the ribs, etc.. This is where carpet is a godsend. You don't have to be perfect and will fit nice and tight, but since it sounds like you want a clear-coated cedar, you'll have to be extra vigilant NOT to remove too much wood.

Also, my input. Clear-coated wood, whether it's spar varnish or resin, just does not last. You'll be re-finishing it. . . a lot. Same for the benches. Carpeted plywood or bed-liner finished diamond plate will last a lot longer. Just my opinion, though. I don't have indoor storage.

Good luck finishing it, your craftsmanship on the paint and sub-structure looks really good, far superior to the way many boats are straight out of the factory.
 
ericman said:
Questions
1. Good plan overall for stringer and subfloor support system? The cedar board is not that heavy..maybe 25-30 lbs and I like the idea of some weight down low for stability. I have a 25hp Johnson to push it with...vintage 1955 :D


The plan is good. Cedar will not rot, neither will the aluminum. Using a stringer right in the middle will further stabilize the boat.

2. Is 19" OC for the aluminum angle on every other rib going to be supportive enough or recommend doing every rib for 9.5" OC?


Unless you get your flooring cut exactly perfect, meaning the top of your boards or plywood butt up against the hull and your cuts are angled just like the contour of the hull where the wood hits the sides, the floor will flex noticeably, especially near the sides halfway between your aluminum u-channel supports. Doubling it up won't add more than a few pounds of weight, yeah, the aluminum channel can be spendy, but in the long run, you'll be happier with the sturdier floor. Running them every 9.5 inches would also allow you to use true 1/2" flooring, which will actually save weight.

3. How can I measure to cut the floor to fit? I was thinking of laying cardboard sheet across width of boat and scribing it from underneath...cutting to match the hull shape at top of gunnels then split it longwise and adjust them to fit the floor then tape them back together. I can only find 48" x 72" cardboard sheets, so I would have to do it in 3 sections. My cedar 1x4 sealed boards are a potential solution that I think has a coolness factor. I don't see much of that on this site, so it must not be looked on favorably??

Scribing can work, but I've found it to be easier to start at the back of the boat, measure the width, making sure I measure 1/2" to 3/4" above the stringers, because it's more important that the flooring is flush to the sides of the hull at the topside of the flooring. Make marks every 4 inches from the back of the boat going forward on your center stringer and measure the width at each and every one of those marks. Transfer those measurements onto a big piece of spliced-together cardboard, use something flexible to bend and hold in place over all your marks and "connect the dots". Draw your first lines a little on the big side, cut the template out, place in bottom of boat, and fine-tune scribe lines. Just make sure you put down some boards first so your template is on the same plane as the topside of your finished floor. Scribe your lines along the sides of the hull, but don't quite cut all of that away. It may take a couple of tweaks. Same goes for when you cut the wood. Cut it out just a bit bigger than your template, and set your angle on your jigsaw or whatever to be shallower than the hull. Note: The angle of hull walls continuously changes, so following it exactly with your cuts is nigh short of impossible. You might end up putting your wood in and out several times, removing bits here and there to allow for nice fit around the ribs, etc.. This is where carpet is a godsend. You don't have to be perfect and will fit nice and tight, but since it sounds like you want a clear-coated cedar, you'll have to be extra vigilant NOT to remove too much wood.

Also, my input. Clear-coated wood, whether it's spar varnish or resin, just does not last. You'll be re-finishing it. . . a lot. Same for the benches. Carpeted plywood or bed-liner finished diamond plate will last a lot longer. Just my opinion, though. I don't have indoor storage.

Good luck finishing it, your craftsmanship on the paint and sub-structure looks really good, far superior to the way many boats are straight out of the factory.

Ericman - some really great input. You sound like you have been there/done that on how to fit the floor. I really appreciate your detailed reply. Sounds like I am going to need some more aluminum. I'd rather do it right once though, so I'm good with that.
 
I sure wouldn't use SS screws into the aluminum ribs, that's just asking for trouble. SS when used w/ aluminum need to be insulated from the aluminum or it will corrode, due to galvanic corrosion/dissimilar metals.


Screws will also loosen up. I'd use a good high-strength rivet for your framing work.

Looks NICE sir!
 
Dale H.

I agree to use rivets when framing up the u-channel to the ribs of the boat. But for screwing the floor to the u-channel, stainless IS the way to go. OR if he does cedar boards, countersunk slotted brass screws would work nice.
 
You think I am ok using SS screws to the ribs if I dip them in 3M 5200 sealant...or just go ahead with rivets? Since these are not below the waterline,
can I just use std open ended rivets that I can get most anywhere? Closed end rivets are online order with min order qtys. I can do that, but thinking
probably not necessary since water intrusion is not a concern. Right?
 
I am making my template for the floor. Does anyone sell pre-coated aluminum panels like the new aluminum boats already have installed from the factory? Someone told me Basspro sold a jon boat flooring kit that sounded like this, but I cannot find it on their website.
 
I got all the rib supports in and loaded her up with floatation. I want to put in an aluminum floor and the fabrication of it with all the angles and ribs is just beyond me and my patience. Anyone have a referral to an aluminum fab shop in DFW Texas area? Thanks.

Lonestar%20ready%20for%20floor_zps1koccopx.jpg
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