First boat - First Mod-1648 Tracker

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ked_man
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First boat - First Mod-1648 Tracker

Post by ked_man »

Hi, I've been lurking for awhile and decided to join.

I just bought my first boat, a Tracker 1648 with a 25 hp Evinrude, the previous owner had already built a pretty nice deck on it and installed a depth finder. I am wanting to refinish the outside as it is pretty beat up and most of the paint is worn off.

What would you guys reccomend for refinishing the paint?


The deck has two nice hatches to access the compartment beneath for storage and has seat mounts.

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The sides are pretty scratched up and the trailer needs some work.

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Let me know what you guys thing, and thanks for any advice you can give.
Last edited by ked_man on 15 May 2013, 08:01, edited 1 time in total.

Pweisbrod
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First boat - First Mod

Post by Pweisbrod »

Welcome! Depends on what you want for color. For flat colors, I recommend Parker's duck boat paint. Available at any major sports retailer or for me, I go to fleet farm.

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

I don't have one of those stores around here, I was thinking about using rustoleum, but I didn't know if I should sand the rest of the paint off or use stripper to remove the paint. DO you guys reccomend using an etching agent first before you paint?

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Scott Mac
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Post by Scott Mac »

Hi ked_man,
An etching primer is almost (for sure) required if you want a top coat to stick. The etching primer chemically bonds to the bare aluminum, retarding oxidation, and the top coat bonds to the primer. You can prep the existing finish in several ways. The prep will determine what the finished product will look like. You do need to remove any loose or flaking paint at a bare minimum. Stripping and sanding will expose the aluminum giving you the best chance at a good bond that should last quite a while. As far as the dents, scrapes and scratches go that is up to you. Look at the several projects here and go from there. The good news is it will be much better than what you have now. Good luck and make sure you share your project with the rest of us.
Golf is for those who can't fish.


My 1963 Aerocraft semi-v build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... 21&t=28345

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

I will probably strip it down and start with the self etching primer, do you guys suggest a good one?

The bottom I will probably leave alone as it is in 85-90 % shape, The best I can figure is this boat was originally a rental from a boat dock and it spent much of its life either tied to a dock or tied to a houseboat getting drug around.

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Scott Mac
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Post by Scott Mac »

Personally I used rust-oleum in a rattle can and was pleased with the results. I also used Rust-Oleum "Top Side" for the final coat. I was not going for a showroom finish so I rolled on the Top Side and went over it with a brush. If you check my link you can see the results.
Golf is for those who can't fish.


My 1963 Aerocraft semi-v build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... 21&t=28345

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

Sounds good, I went out yesterday to lowes, sportsmans warehouse, and harbor freight and stocked up. And picked a trolling motor and battery from Craigslist for 150 bucks.

Now all I need is some warmer weather to start work.

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

OK, so in doing my research I have come to some questions in wiring. I read some helpful articles I found on here and have sketched up a wiring diagram. I will be using 2 batteries, one to run electronics, the other to run the 30lb Minnkota Endura.

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Does this look right, using circuit breakers and bus bars to connect everything to the batteries? Let me know of any sugestions.

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I am going to be wiring everything up to a 5 gang marine switch panel with a 12V plug.

Like this.
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Also I don't think the wires on the trolling motor will be long enough to reach the battery, so I was thinking I would need to run some 6 gauge wire to this recepticle and wire the trolling motor to the plug, that way I can take it on and off easily. Has anybody ever used these or are they even necessary?

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I really don't want to burn myself up so any help will be appreciated.

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RivRunR
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Post by RivRunR »

Wiring looks pretty good to me. =D>

You might want to route your fish finder wire around/away from the TM wiring, instead of across it. Just to eliminate any possible interference.
Your fish finder and 12V outlet don't need to be on a switch, just fused...especially the finder which could lose settings, etc. if it doesn't go thru it's shut down procedure first.

The only other thing I can think of is on your TM plug...if that is the MinnKota MKR-18 plug & receptacle, and if you use 6 gauge wire, you'll also have to have the MKR 18A 6 ga wire adapter
2000 Lowe 1752 VPT / Suzuki 60 4 stroke
HBird 898c SI / Helix 5 DI / Terrova 55 US2 iPilot Link
4 Metric Tons of Tackle

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

That's a good point about the depth finder, I can just hard wire it to the trolling motor battery. Shouldn't hurt anything.

The only reason I wanted to run the 12V plug on a switch is just in case I get the itch to install some small LED flood lights up from for bow fishing, I can plug them into the receptacle and then use the switch to turn them on or off.

In the description of the MK18 adapter it says it will work with 6 gauge, I guess this is a misprint, or it means the female end will connect with 6 gauge.

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RivRunR
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Post by RivRunR »

yeah, you can use in in-line fuse holder for the finder...I prefer it on a fuse panel just so everything is one place if I have to check it, but it's nbd to use an in-line.

The Mk18 A Adapter allows the plug to work with 6 ga, the standard plug won't.

I'm actually not a big fan of using a plug & receptacle and wired mine directly, but I never take my TM off the boat. If you wanted to go that route, and your TM wire is too short, you could use a junction block and some 6ga ring terminals to "splice" in your additional wire over to the battery.
2000 Lowe 1752 VPT / Suzuki 60 4 stroke
HBird 898c SI / Helix 5 DI / Terrova 55 US2 iPilot Link
4 Metric Tons of Tackle

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

Well I got back at it Saturday morning, built some saw horses, and built a motor stand. It took a few of us but we got the boat off the trailer and upside down on the saw horses.

You can really see how scratched up it is, this boat has had a rough life.

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The best part, the trailer already has a flat. And after some playing around with the tire looks like it will need replacing.

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I got a better look at the guide-ons the PO built out of re-bar.

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And they didn't hold up, I'll be cutting these off and replacing them with ones made from square tubing.

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This is the side that is pretty damaged. It doesn't leak and there are no stress cracks. Is there anything I can do with this or just kinda watch it?

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I am guessing this is a hole that has been patched, but after hitting this stuff with a wire wheel and it didn't budge, I believe it will hold.

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I conned a couple buddies into helping me sand all the paint off. Its amazing what all you can get done with a few friends paid with a case of beer and the promise of fishing trips.

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Here is our supervisor, like always laying down on the job.

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It took about 5 hours with three drills to get all of the paint off, but it looks pretty good.

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Hopefully the rain dries up enough today I can get it wiped down with mineral spirits and get a coat of primer on it this evening and get it painted this week in the nice weather.

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TimRich
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Post by TimRich »

She's coming along nicely! It's gonna look like a new boat once you get the paint on there!
Current rig under construction- 14 foot flat bottom jon https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... 65#p242665

ked_man
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Post by ked_man »

Yeah, the paint is what I'm worried about. I've got the self etching primer in the rattle cans and then I'm wanting to do rustoleum over that. I shouldn't need to clear coat it or anything, I'm just hoping it doesn't flake off and I have to sand it again. If I see a wire cup on a drill again it will be too soon.

Have you guys had any problems with the self etching primer and just regular rustoleum?

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TimRich
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Post by TimRich »

ked_man wrote:Yeah, the paint is what I'm worried about. I've got the self etching primer in the rattle cans and then I'm wanting to do rustoleum over that. I shouldn't need to clear coat it or anything, I'm just hoping it doesn't flake off and I have to sand it again. If I see a wire cup on a drill again it will be too soon.

Have you guys had any problems with the self etching primer and just regular rustoleum?
This is the route I went. I sanded and wire wheeled off any loose paint then hit the bare metal with self etching primer. I used the Rustoleum OD camo paint on mine and put about 3 coats. It's held up well so far. the only place I've seen it rub off is the bottom from me beaching it. I'm not to worried about that. I can always spray it again if it gets bad.
Current rig under construction- 14 foot flat bottom jon https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... 65#p242665