Voyager 16ft jon boat mod, here we go right now! *New Pics

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MNHunter505

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Location
Suffolk, VA
I have been on this website for the last year and figured it was time to start my jon boat modification. From what I can tell, my boat is a 1996 70 series Voyager Jon boat. Bottom width is 48" and beam is 70". Picked it up on Craigslist with a Evinrude 35HP and trailer for a good price. Just added a couple pedistal seats and it got me through last season. I just started yesterday so I will be posting pics and updates as I try and complete this in the next couple weeks.
My plan:
-enlarge front casting deck (raised)
-add aft casting deck (raised)
-middle deck (on ribs)
-storage
-possible sidewalls.

Would like to add a livewell but can't find a cheap way to do it. I don't really want to do the cooler route. Would like to find a pre-made alum box I can use or something used -maybe something that was taken out of a boat restore.
 
Here is a pic after I removed most of the items from the boat; fishfinder, seats, trolling motor, etc.
 

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So I got the rotted wood and decking removed. This carpet was as hard as concrete! ha
The front factory alum casting deck is very weak. I am going to have to re-enforce it when I build onto it.
 

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Wood tops for the side benches removed...
 

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Next on the schedule was to remove every screw. What I mean is that there were random SS screws/bolts going throught the boat, some above the water line, some below. I will have to remember to do a complete walk around of this boat to ensure all holes are filled before putting it back in the water!

So I guess it brings up the question of what are my options of filling the holes? I have read about "5200" and JB weld putty. The putty sounds like a good idea because you can mold it and press it together to fill the hole neatly. What do you think? (they are only the size of 1/4"-ish size holes)

You can see the holes at the bottom of the transom. Some are used for the fishfinder transducer but the other ones aren't used for anything.
 

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Alright, so I have prepped the boat, to some degree, for painting. I have used the steel-wire cup and those sand-paper 4 1/2" grinder plates to smooth any rough edges around holes/corners/imperfections. Then I removed all flakey paint, continuing to grind away from center of the flakey paint area until I hit hardened paint (paint attached to metal). Then I went over the whole boat with 120grit sand paper, very fast and lightly. A very light dusting of the fouled and faded paint was removed. This was a very long and tedious job.

I understand I have to use self-etching primer on any bare metal. Question: do I just walk around the whole boat, using rattle cans, and hit every spot? There are so many spots that it's going to look like a Dalmatian dog! Also, they will be so close together, I wonder if I should just buy a quart or two, load up my gun and spray the entire boat. Can you use the self-etching primer on painted areas as well? Which is the cheaper, quicker, and better route?

I am sure I am not the first person to have a boat in this shape...what did you guys do before painting?
A little stuck at this point....
 

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So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
-how to fill screw size holes
-primer question

Thanks in advance!
 
MNHunter505 said:
So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
-how to fill screw size holes
-primer question

Thanks in advance!

Had time to do some research on here and found some different ideas for patching my small holes. It was 50/50 on the different options but I am going to use JB MarineWeld. As far as sanding, I will prolly just buy a couple rattle cans and prime all the bare alum. I will post some pics after I prime in a couple days.
 
MNHunter505 said:
MNHunter505 said:
So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
-how to fill screw size holes
-primer question

Thanks in advance!

Had time to do some research on here and found some different ideas for patching my small holes. It was 50/50 on the different options but I am going to use JB MarineWeld. As far as sanding, I will prolly just buy a couple rattle cans and prime all the bare alum. I will post some pics after I prime in a couple days.

I personally used JB Weld to patch holes in my boat. I sanded it down and painted them. They were mainly rivet holes through the ribs and in the console. I have heard the best thing to do below the water line is put 5200 on a SS bolt. If you don't want to see the bolt heads then the JB Weld would be your best bet. Like you said there are different opinions on the matter. As far as the primer goes, I spot primed mine as well. I feathered it out, but it still doesn't look perfect. I am not the best painter so maybe you will have better luck. Hopefully this helps. Keep up the good work!
 
DuckChaser said:
MNHunter505 said:
MNHunter505 said:
So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
-how to fill screw size holes
-primer question

Thanks in advance!

Had time to do some research on here and found some different ideas for patching my small holes. It was 50/50 on the different options but I am going to use JB MarineWeld. As far as sanding, I will prolly just buy a couple rattle cans and prime all the bare alum. I will post some pics after I prime in a couple days.

I personally used JB Weld to patch holes in my boat. I sanded it down and painted them. They were mainly rivet holes through the ribs and in the console. I have heard the best thing to do below the water line is put 5200 on a SS bolt. If you don't want to see the bolt heads then the JB Weld would be your best bet. Like you said there are different opinions on the matter. As far as the primer goes, I spot primed mine as well. I feathered it out, but it still doesn't look perfect. I am not the best painter so maybe you will have better luck. Hopefully this helps. Keep up the good work!

Ok, thanks. Also, when you say "feathered", do you mean sand the primed spots, going in an outward direction from center to make a gradual change in the different thickness of paint coats? To try and make it even as possible?
 
MNHunter505 said:
Ok, thanks. Also, when you say "feathered", do you mean sand the primed spots, going in an outward direction from center to make a gradual change in the different thickness of paint coats? To try and make it even as possible?

That is pretty much what I am talking about. You don't want the transition from paint to bare metal to be seen. So if you make the transition gradual, it makes it hardered to see.
 
Got it all prepped for painting; sanded, powerwashed, and then wiped down with a micro fiber rag. First coat of primer, wait two hours, then second and last coat of primer.
 

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I put the last coat of primer on and got her put back in the garage. Staying above 60 degrees in there, should be good to go. Next up is to flip it over and put two coats on the belly.
 
Looks like your on your way. Keep it up and keep posting pics I wanna see how you paint it. O.D. green(boring) or
some cool camo, or some tricked out colors. My vote is camo. LOL
 
coreyltexas said:
Looks like your on your way. Keep it up and keep posting pics I wanna see how you paint it. O.D. green(boring) or
some cool camo, or some tricked out colors. My vote is camo. LOL

Yea, I would love a complex camo design! But, trying to get on the water sooner rather than later so I bought a gallon of Parker's Duck Boat paint in Sand Tan. Defintely didn't want to go with the jonboat green color.
 
Priming complete! Had my buddy Kyle help me finish priming the bottom. Spraying it looks so much better. I rolled on the first coat of primer on the bottom and wasn't happy with the result. So I went back to my Graco sprayer and used it to apply the final coat of primer. Got it back in the garage for the night, suppose to rain.
Tomorrow I will put the first coat of Parkers Sand Tan. Can't wait to see what it looks like.
 

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Looking good you have any other plans or just gonna keep it simple to get out there first? I was looking more at the pics and saw the notch on the transom you think that was manufactured like that? Or the PO cut that for a short shaft motor? Keep it up you'll be happy when you take it out for the first time! One more question does your outboard run, tested it out yet? https://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=21&t=29553#
 
coreyltexas said:
Looking good you have any other plans or just gonna keep it simple to get out there first? I was looking more at the pics and saw the notch on the transom you think that was manufactured like that? Or the PO cut that for a short shaft motor? Keep it up you'll be happy when you take it out for the first time! One more question does your outboard run, tested it out yet? https://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=21&t=29553#

Thanks Texas. My plans are to build and carpet a front casting deck, middle floor deck, and rear casting deck. I have a new fishfinder, switch panel, stereo, and seats to install. I am using alum angle for framing and 1/2" plywood for the deck. Definitely trying to get more storgage by installing hatches.
You are correct, the PO cut the transom to take a short shaft. Wish he wouldn't have done that, it's not even a centered cut! But it will be replaced for my winter project next year.
My outboard does run. It's a 1979 but a strong evinrude 35.
 

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