My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

*****This section is for Full Boat Projects Only*****
shawnfish
Posts: 922
Joined: 17 Dec 2010, 05:54
9
Location: OMAHA NE

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by shawnfish »

have you filled the boat with water while on the trailer to see where all the leaks are??? after you get all that crap off the boat I would suggest trailering it and fill it up so you got a better idea of what your dealing with leak wise and start from there. from what I see you got your work cut out for ya but like you said just take your time and weigh all your options so you don't have to make changes 3 different times to get it the way you want it like I did because I rushed and didn't think a few things out like I should have because I was excited to be done, take ya a lil longer but its all worth it when your done and you can stand back and look at it and say to yourself " I did that" and feel proud! good luck man....
MY WORST FEAR......THAT WHEN I DIE MY WIFE WILL SELL ALL MY FISHING GEAR FOR WHAT I TOLD HER I PAID FOR IT.......

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Flat Bottom wrote:Hey man, great looking start you have there, if re bucking the rivets doesnt seal her up I would recommend jb weld over leaking rivets, hell I would just put jb weld on em period clean the area well and just put about a quarter size covering on each rivet. I swear by the stuff. You can use it on cracks or whatever, sometimes you have to be creative in your application like building little dams to pool it up where you want it etc... it has yet to let me down.
Thanks FB, I could get creative and use that stuff....but how long do you think that would last? I am thinking a more permanent fix...unless that lasts a while...I just dont want to have to be doing this again in a couple years ya know? I have never replaced rivets...but am thinking I will learn. Guess it all depends on how many are leaking.
shawnfish wrote:have you filled the boat with water while on the trailer to see where all the leaks are??? after you get all that crap off the boat I would suggest trailering it and fill it up so you got a better idea of what your dealing with leak wise and start from there. from what I see you got your work cut out for ya but like you said just take your time and weigh all your options so you don't have to make changes 3 different times to get it the way you want it like I did because I rushed and didn't think a few things out like I should have because I was excited to be done, take ya a lil longer but its all worth it when your done and you can stand back and look at it and say to yourself " I did that" and feel proud! good luck man....
Thanks Shawn! I have not done this yet...but that is what I meant by leak testing...exactly. I have thought about a bunch of different layouts so far...and like them each in their own way..but for now just need to concentrate on sealing the thing. Hope to work on it this weekend a bit. Was supposed to last night, but the fiance' got in the way of that one. :shock:
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Well we flipped the boat back over. While I used the torch to clean off PO's JB weld job on the rear bottom rivets, I realized I probably shouldn't have as there is the factory sealant used between the rivets I could have ruined/melted with the torch. Learned that on this site....but after a driveway sloped rear 1/2 leak test....the rear rivets are all good. I will be doing another on level ground hopefully this weekend to test the front rivets. Anyhow here are some pics of the inside of the boat...pretty in tact still.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364525613.806100.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364525627.172140.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364525640.338489.jpg
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
walleyejoe
Posts: 70
Joined: 27 Jan 2013, 11:30
7
Location: Indiana

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by walleyejoe »

Looks like you got a pretty solid structure to build off of. Do you have a lay out on what your gona to do yet? When I had my boat at the point where yours is... I changed my mind on what i wanted to do 10 times. #-o Good luck nice walleyes btw :fishing:
https://
14 ft Alumacraft project www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28938

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Well did a good leak test Friday evening... :/ besides the crack in the front, found the rest of the leaks. Found 1 other crack, all the holes for live wells and bilge need new seals, rear bottom seal by plug needs some sealing, and probably 30 rivets... More leaking than I had thought...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829334.053930.jpg
Shoved a rag over the main crack
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829358.751560.jpg
This crack needs welding and leaks a lot
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829391.102475.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829421.967238.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829433.535201.jpg
Those small ones are from oil
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829445.601430.jpg

Now here is the main [Censored] area... All marker lines are leaky rivets or seals
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829520.734777.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829562.570285.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829573.934884.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829624.035073.jpg
]]]
Attachments
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829634.534807.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829606.500927.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364829592.235352.jpg
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - '78 Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

The large red circle is the main crack, and will be tig welded. The small red circle is the other crack I found...much smaller but will still need welding. The green circle is to show the that riveted seam..and it leaks alot across the whole seam..even with the junk from the PO.
Image

The blue rectangle shows the main problem area....how would you fix this?

1) Do I weld the 2 cracks, replace each rivet and seal with steeflex over top of it all? Will that be enough?

2) Weld the entire seal where the rivets are now all the way around the rectangle piece of aluminum(edge where marker lines point to), and also replace the rivets inside the welds...then steelflex?

3) Form a new piece of aluminum to go over what is currently there, extend wider by an inch on each side, and fully weld it in...covering over the entire area with a new peice of metal.

Need some advise here! :?

Image
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
Flat Bottom
Posts: 197
Joined: 09 Jan 2011, 01:27
9
Location: Eastern Oregon

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by Flat Bottom »

Hey man, as far as jb weld is concerned, if you do it right it will probably outlast whatever its on. Huge chunks of the cavitation plate on my 140hp suzuki was busted off when I got it, I rebuilt it with an alluminum plate bolted to the underside and jbweld formed and sanded to near factory on the top, that was about 3 years ago. All the rivets on the underside of my 14ft jon weredone about 3 or more years ago still no leaks. A hole in the head plate of my 15 horse mariner was plugged and about a 3inch broken piece of the block on the same engine was re-molded a year or so ago and still working great. It really is amazing stuff so long as you take your time and let it set.
21ft Flat Bottom Project
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=17020

"America... love it, or get the H#$% out now"

User avatar
walleyejoe
Posts: 70
Joined: 27 Jan 2013, 11:30
7
Location: Indiana

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by walleyejoe »

Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Its hard to say what the best thing to do is .Its probly gona take a little trial and error . I think I'd try to weld what you can and reset and seal the rivets .
https://
14 ft Alumacraft project www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28938

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Thanks Guys!! I will have to give that some thought, and also see what some others have to say as well. Was there a special type of JB weld to use FB?
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
Wayloncash
Posts: 2
Joined: 02 Apr 2013, 20:28
7
Location: Lake Livingston

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by Wayloncash »

I don't know if this will help, but i thought it was really cool. My buddy gave me a 15 ft v bottom i dont know the manufacturer or any of that. The rivets dont look great you can see where there could be potential leaks. They dont look awfully bad either, BUT... he rhino lined the inside of it you know spray on bed liner. Man it looks sweet get some pictures up this weekend. AND not a single leak whatsoever. I thought that was a really cool idea.

User avatar
Flat Bottom
Posts: 197
Joined: 09 Jan 2011, 01:27
9
Location: Eastern Oregon

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by Flat Bottom »

jvanhees wrote:Thanks Guys!! I will have to give that some thought, and also see what some others have to say as well. Was there a special type of JB weld to use FB?

I use regular jb weld, they have jb kwik that dries faster, and water weld that can be applied wet or under water... the regular stuff is the strongest. It takes a while to set, check out their website, they have a lot of great info on there
21ft Flat Bottom Project
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=17020

"America... love it, or get the H#$% out now"

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Well been tearing into the hull a bit this week. Removing leaking rivets, prepping weld areas for the welder, and trying to clean off the rest of the hull for primer/steelflex eventually...but having a hard time. Been using heat, grinder/wirebrush, scrapers, acetone and none are working to well. Thinking of trying a stripper next. I want it to be all bare aluminum before I put anything down....
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182826.327746.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182834.393346.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182845.127342.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182855.793786.jpg
Whatever epoxy stuff was used all over the boat is a bear to get off... Wirebrush barely doing it(just turns it black)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182930.143541.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182941.910012.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365182966.377197.jpg
Some JB weld all over this rear seam... Which is holding up nice. I think you may be onto something FB...may use this more before primer on rivets in the rear here
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365183042.910201.jpg
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

User avatar
simbelle
Posts: 195
Joined: 01 Dec 2012, 18:37
7
Location: Clermont, Fl.

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by simbelle »

Do yourself a favor ( and I don't mean to be-little anyone else s opinion); But if your planing on keeping that boat for any time; Lay off the JB Weld. It will hold for a while, but I guarantee it will eventually fail in this application. The Cracks if yo don't want to pay a welder, use aluminium patch, rivets and a good amount of 5200 and you'll never have another issue with it. The bottom of the transom is fine I guess with the JB Weld on the outside since your going to Steelflex over it (I just hope with the cold waters you run in it doesn't just pop /crack under rhe flex but I really don't have any idea since I'm a Southern Boy.) I used 5200 from the caulking gun on my inside Transom seam waited 3 days covered it with Gluvit and then truck bed liner. It's hard as rock on the outside but I know it's still pliable
underneath,( you can omit the Gluvit). dip your rivet in an epoxy sealant before filling the holes ( West Marine G-Flex would work well, but I'm sure even 5200 would work if covered with Steelflex later.

I am no expert as you can tell by my amateur advise, just hate to see you get your feet wet or loose fishing time.

User avatar
jvanhees
Posts: 186
Joined: 20 Mar 2013, 10:22
7
Location: Brighton, MI

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by jvanhees »

Great info! Thank you... I appreciate any and all opinions and experiences!!!
1668 Sea Nymph SS160 - Current build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=29791

1868 Landau Mod-V - Sold!....to fund SN
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29763

smackdaddy53
Posts: 917
Joined: 11 Oct 2012, 21:06
7
Location: Victoria, Texas

My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668

Post by smackdaddy53 »

Try a wire wheel on a grinder for prepping for welding and generally for cleaning up areas that are tough to get to (around rivets, in tight corners etc)...lookin good!
~Mac~

Post Reply