my electric only boat

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shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

well, after some research and lots of thinking, i decided to modify my tin boat to fish an electric only lake 10 minutes from home. the first option was to get another boat, but i couldnt find another tin boat anywhere. the second option was a fiberglass boat, i located one in my city, they wanted $500 for it with a trailer, but the boat is basically junk, its only virtue is that it still floats. but since im thinking about an electric only boat, this one was discarded for being too heavy.

so, the only reasonable option is to modify my old tin boat. this boat was my grandfather's, and i used it when i began fishing on this same lake, but with a 5 HP gas motor. now that the lake went to electric only, and that i also got a bassboat, the tin boat has been abandoned for some time. however, its time for a restoration, specially when the lake has been producing 4-5 lbers regularly from the bank, and not many people care to put a boat in it.

here is the boat as it sits today:

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some years ago my father decided to spray polyurethane to the boat, since it would get too hot during the summer months, hot enough that you couldnt even sit on the benches. however, its already falling off, so, im going to remove it completely and add either carpet or wood to the benches.

the boat is one oar wide, and a paddle deep, so, its very unstable. i will have to add pontoons if i want to stand up, which i definitely want in order to fish out of it.

Image

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also, in the pics you can see the pedestal seats i have on the bassboat... i would like to install bases to the tin boat as well, to use the same seats. im debating over installing a small deck as low as it can go, just to have a flat platform to stand on, and install the bases on the deck. or maybe drilling a hole directly on the benches and install the seats there....

the first thing i will do is to build a trailer. today i already purchased the rims, axle, and leaf springs, everything new for $120. the boat is really light, i used to move it in a Ranger, but now that i no longer have the truck, i need to tow it...

so heres the list of TO DOs:

1) trailer
2) pontoons
3) install pedestal seats
4) install fish finder

meanwhile, remove the polyurethane and do something to the benches.

i will be posting the progress and ideas i have. unfortunately im starting with a very small boat, so i cant deck it or anything big, as it would be very unstable.

oh BTW i got a 25# TM for the transom, a friend sold it to me for $45. i will try it and if its not enough i can have another one of 30# for $60. i may even install both of them, but i think its not needed. the lake is so small, i have gone from one end to the other one in an inflatable kayak in 15 minutes...

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

i have been thinking about the pontoons for a while, and so far, im leaning towards 8" or 10" PVC pipe, closed on both ends, and fixed about 2" from the boat. a friend has those on a canoe and he can stand on it, its very stable that way.

im thinking about drilling the pipe to fit a 1/2 bolt, at about 1 foot from each end, and secure it with 2 nuts per side, 2 on the inside of the pipe, 2 on the outside. this way, i could make it adjustable, to be able to push it into the water to look for the better balance. i also want a hinge system, so i can lift the pontoons when im not fishing, to avoid drag and gain some speed.

hope this rough (very rough) diagram helps explain. the red 1/2" bolt will help me adjust the pontoons height. the yellow bar hinges on one end, and the bolt passes through the other end. it has 2 holes to insert a pin, the hole on the left will maintain the bar horizontal and push the pontoons in the water. if the other hole is used, the pontoons will be lifted up, to avoid the drag they cause while on the move...

Image

what do you think? any other idea to make it easier or better??

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

i see you refer to tin boats as 1232, 1436 for example. im guessing those are some measurements but i dont know what they referr to. does anybody know whats my boat?

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
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Location: Richmond, VA

my electric only boat

Post by meonline06 »

shu2kill wrote:i see you refer to tin boats as 1232, 1436 for example. im guessing those are some measurements but i dont know what they referr to. does anybody know whats my boat?
The first two numbers are the length of the boat, bow to stern. The last two numbers are the width of the transom, measured at the bottom port to starboard.

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

thanks meonline.

this weekend i plan on working on the trailer. im leaning towards angle instead of channel, maybe 2" angle. im thinking something along this line, but, i would make removeable bunks, that way i can just remove them, put a wooden deck, and have a trailer for whenever i need to haul small things, maybe even a quad or something depending on the size i can make it with the axle i got.

Image

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

after working all saturday afternoon and most of sunday, i almost finished the trailer. i still need to protect the bunks, paint it, and wire it, but its basically done.... i liked the results for less than 1 1/2 of work and about $200. i also began removing all the yellow polyurethane...

Image

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

now, being this is such a small boat, im thinking i would only build some rod storage for 4-6 rods. im designing something like this where i could store maybe 2 rods per side, just to keep them out of the way.

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and under it, im designing a tilt drawer system where i could put some Plano 3700 boxes. sorry for the pic, but it gives the idea of the drawers. they would be flush with the rod box.

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that way, i wouldnt need to carry my fishing bags or anything, just put the boxes in the drawers and have them always at hand.

RustyGoat
Posts: 85
Joined: 03 Jul 2013, 20:54
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Location: Ohio

my electric only boat

Post by RustyGoat »

meonline06 » 09 Jul 2014, 13:49 wrote:
shu2kill wrote:i see you refer to tin boats as 1232, 1436 for example. im guessing those are some measurements but i dont know what they referr to. does anybody know whats my boat?
The last two numbers are the width of the transom, measured at the bottom port to starboard.
Flat bottom boats may be measured that way but my 1470 is measured across the gunwales at the widest part of the boat. My boat is actually 69", apparently Polar Kraft didn't want to call it a 1469.
2013 Polar Kraft Dakota 1470

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New River Rat
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my electric only boat

Post by New River Rat »

RustyGoat » Today, 09:19 wrote: Flat bottom boats may be measured that way but my 1470 is measured across the gunwales at the widest part of the boat. My boat is actually 69", apparently Polar Kraft didn't want to call it a 1469.

PolarKraft used to do all their boats this way. My mod-V would be a 1648 by any other manufacturer, but they call it a 1668. I think they have since gone by the standard everyone else is using.
My Tinny is a tool, a means to an end, if you will.

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shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

well, i guess i wont know what my boat is then... its 48" at the widest part, and i have not measured at the bottom of the transom but i will tomorrow.

anyways, i just finished my trailer, painted and wired it... the only thing missing is the front support, i made one with scrap material i had, just so i can transport the boat... i will fix that later...

Image

heres how i wired it, i welded nuts to the bottom to pass the wires through:

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and i used 3 led strips, 2 strips are for the driving lights, one strip for the signals:

Image

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i made a mistake and ended up welding the axle too far back.... the boat is very light, so a person can move it easily, but it would have been better with the axle a little bit forward.

i welded a handle to move the trailer around:

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and thats all for now, the trailer is finished so i will begin working on the pontoons.... i will try using 6" PVC pipes, theres a canoe in the local lake with those, and 2 men can stand on it and fish easily, so i hope they work as well for my boat...

flatboat
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Joined: 03 Apr 2011, 07:52
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Location: illinois & louisiana

my electric only boat

Post by flatboat »

JUST A HEADS UP ! I don't know if you priced 8" or 10"pvc but it isn't cheep .. 8"=$14.00 and10"= $20.00 a ft 8" pipe caps are $50.00 each ,10" are $75 , unless you have a real good friend that's gonna give it to you , and the weight 8"is almost 9lbs a ft 10"IS 12lbs
if you keep the trailer as low as you can it will be easier to launch and load . on my small boat I put the axels on top of the springs and used snowmobile trailer tires , short and wide , set the bunks on the frame it was a breeze no wet feet .

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

flatboat » 25 Jul 2014, 05:30 wrote:JUST A HEADS UP ! I don't know if you priced 8" or 10"pvc but it isn't cheep .. 8"=$14.00 and10"= $20.00 a ft 8" pipe caps are $50.00 each ,10" are $75 , unless you have a real good friend that's gonna give it to you , and the weight 8"is almost 9lbs a ft 10"IS 12lbs
if you keep the trailer as low as you can it will be easier to launch and load . on my small boat I put the axels on top of the springs and used snowmobile trailer tires , short and wide , set the bunks on the frame it was a breeze no wet feet .
thanx!

i have not priced the 8", but for the 6" i can get an 18' pipe for a little less than $35. im in Mexico so prices in here are different. caps are also not that expensive, maybe $6 or $7 for the 6", which i think should be enough. i dont know about the weight though...

and, i put the axle under the springs because i thought the tires may hit the boat. im still not sure about it, but ill try to put the axle above to lower the trailer a little bit.

surfman
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Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29
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my electric only boat

Post by surfman »

RustyGoat » 16 Jul 2014, 06:19 wrote:
meonline06 » 09 Jul 2014, 13:49 wrote:
shu2kill wrote:i see you refer to tin boats as 1232, 1436 for example. im guessing those are some measurements but i dont know what they referr to. does anybody know whats my boat?
The last two numbers are the width of the transom, measured at the bottom port to starboard.
Flat bottom boats may be measured that way but my 1470 is measured across the gunwales at the widest part of the boat. My boat is actually 69", apparently Polar Kraft didn't want to call it a 1469.
My Sylvan is the same way, it is called a model 1472 but it is actually a 1448 in reality. I looks better on paper I guess as a 1472??

I would ditch the idea of putting pontoons on that boat by the way, it can’t be that unstable to stand up in can it? If it was I think I would find something else. Or I would maybe install the floatation pods to the transom. Is that light I see shining through holes in the transom too??

shu2kill
Posts: 49
Joined: 07 Jun 2014, 00:11
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my electric only boat

Post by shu2kill »

well, it is very unstable, one man can stand up CAREFULLY if the other one knows and sits exactly in the center... 2 men standing on one side, is completely impossible.

i was not able to find something else reasonably priced, the couple of boats i was were way overpriced, so i decided to restore this one, which was my granddad's so thats a plus.

what are the flotation pods to the transom you mention?? and no, there are no holes on the transom, thats a reflection, i already checked it.

thanx!!

surfman
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Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29
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my electric only boat

Post by surfman »

google floatation pods for jon boats, you should get plenty of info there and prices, they are $250 minimum though, and not sure how they would work on that round bottom come to think of it.

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