Landau 1456 Jon Build

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Timtactical
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Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

Hey guys, I've been doing some reading on this site and I think I have a plan for my jon build. I got alot of good info here:https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9074

The landau 1456 is a 14' semi v, when planning my casting deck I wanted to place my battery in front of the middle seat under the deck. I drew up a cad drawing for the decking running flush with the middle seat. After reading the above link, I may drop the casting deck down a few inches, but I want enough for some storage. The jon has a Evinrude 9.9, that has been converted to 15hp, more on that later. Lets say I got lucky.

I found a used Minn Kota Power Drive trolling motor on craigslist, and it ended up not working correctly. Turns out it had a bad main board, so hopefully it ends up working out. Picking it up tomorrow.

So far I have been fixing items that obviously the last non competent owner couldn't figure out. Which works out well when negotiating and buying a used boat.

1. These are hard to back up while sitting behind a full size truck. I purchased the boat and the trailer had a serious bent tongue.
I ordered a piece of box tubing 12" long that fit inside the trailer, pulled back the wiring and started cutting.

Image

2.The camo paint was horrible, im sure it would for for duck camo, but I about vomited every time I looked at it. Its easier to feel good about it after some basic paint.

Image

I picked the paint up at homedepot, its flat green color, it ran just a couple of dollars a can.

The winch had a rope on it, so I picked up a replacement strap and hook. On the front of the boat I drilled and bolted up a connection point. I think this is imperative for securing to trailer, attaching an anchor, and getting a tow in case of break down.

Also for the trailer the vertical piece of steel that the winch bolts to was floppy so I welded to tongue and cut off extra material off the top, I hit the edges with a flap disk and smoothed out the welds. Since I welded I hit the trailer with some epoxy spray paint to keep front rusty welds, and areas where I knocked off the galvanizing.

The side bunk boards are not covered and were spit and broken, I had a few pieces of pressure treaded 2x4 left over from another project. I cut them to the correct length, and wrapped with bunk board carpeting.

I do have a few leaky rivets. I ordered a rivet tool for my air hammer and will buck the rivets as soon as my buddy gets back in town. I will remove the motor, stand the boat up against the shop, I will run the hammer on the inside of the boat, and my buddy will be on the outside with a 2lb sledge.

I ordered some of this: https://www.pbsboatstore.com/gluvit-epo ... sealer.htm to seal all of the rivets so I dont have to worry about them leaking in the future. I only found 1 that dripped, but I want to seal them all before I build the deck.

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onthewater102
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by onthewater102 »

1456 - that's a really wide 14', it'll make a nice fishing platform.
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT (SOLD)

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Timtactical
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

In this case, 56" is the beam width, the actual floor width in the rear is 32".

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onthewater102
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by onthewater102 »

Ah - that makes more sense. That was damn near pancake dimensions for a 14' if it had a 56" wide floor...odd that they brake with the seemingly standard convention of naming jon boat models. It would be a 1432 by any other manufacturer I'm familiar with.

Good luck with the re-bucking, many have tried, few have succeeded. Those who fail but want a permanent fix drill out the old & replace with a closed end blind rivet doctored with some epoxy.
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT (SOLD)

bthompson92
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Joined: 28 Jun 2014, 23:11
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Location: auburn alabama

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by bthompson92 »

Nice boat, goodluck with the build!
1978 duracraft 1642

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Timtactical
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Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

https://newboatbuilders.com/pages/flot2.html

I found this link, its a good read about building a boat and testing to make sure it will float if swamped. This would be useful for us guys removing seats, foam, etc.

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Timtactical
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

On with the motor, when I got the boat home I looked up the model information and found out it is an Evinrude 10hp made in 1983, which is listed as a 9.9 hp.

I then went to and did a lot of reading here: https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboa ... icles.html

This guy has great info, pictures etc on these motors. So with the information I had, I wanted to bump up the hp up to 15 hp. It basically gets you a bit more rpm and a couple mph vs the 9.9. So I pop the cover and the motor looks like brand new inside. The plugs are clean, but I do the normal maintenance. So new plugs, lower unit oil, new fuel lines and clean the fuel filter. I unbolt the carb, checked the numbers and to my amazement this motor has already had the 15 hp conversion done. This is great if your on a hp restricted lake and is better than just swapping engine covers.

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onthewater102
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by onthewater102 »

Unfortunately the bureaucrats in the great liberal hive of CT see fit to double dip on their water restrictions - anywhere with a HP limit has a correspondingly pointless speed restriction so even if you snuck the extra ponies onto the water you're still limited to 8mph (no wake for the damn retired yuppies)

But, I'm not bitter about it...
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT (SOLD)

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Timtactical
Posts: 123
Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

That is too bad about your state. Gotta get out in the mid-west.

So I picked up two sheets of marine grade ply today over lunch, one 5/8" and the other 1/2". Ran me $135.00, stuff is expensive but hopefully it will last. I am going to use two pieces of the 5/8" to build up the bow for my trolling motor, and the 1/2" for the deck. This will all be covered with 24oz gunmetal grey carpet from bassboatseats.com. Their prices look great, and are a sponsor on this site. I am helping by buddy bring an old bass boat to life so he ordered extra carpet for myself.

https://www.bassboatseats.com/collectio ... oat-carpet

Last night, (while the site was down). I ordered a live well insert, and a slam lid for it. I am going to install it into the middle seat, the deck will sit flush with the top of the middle seat and forward so it will be below the rail. Both for stability and to keep stuff from falling off the boat.

https://tempress.com/#!/~/product/categ ... id=1527539
https://tempress.com/#!/~/product/categ ... id=1527383

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onthewater102
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by onthewater102 »

I used the tempress cam hatches on my boat - they're very well made. You should be very happy with them.
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT (SOLD)

User avatar
Timtactical
Posts: 123
Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

I found cabelas sells an aluminum hatch, I think I will pick one of those up for the storage under the casting deck, and battery access (the battery will go under the deck in front of the middle seat.)

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Custom-Hatch/699966.uts

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onthewater102
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Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by onthewater102 »

Sweet - they're on sale too - I'm thinking about relocating the batteries to inside the middle bench seat - and that hatch would make my life so much easier. Hmm - tempress hatches are just as easy and match the other 3 on my boat already...
Last edited by onthewater102 on 17 Jul 2014, 22:55, edited 1 time in total.
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT (SOLD)

User avatar
Timtactical
Posts: 123
Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
7
Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

Here are some pics:
Image

Tools of the trade:
Image

It bounces around a lot, but if you can keep it on the rivet it peens it down nice.

Filling the boat and marking the leaky rivets.
Image

Image

For the front plate I cut two pieces of 1/2" marine ply and screwed them together to make up the 1" lip at the front. I then drilled the holes for the trolling motor through the wood and the aluminum below. I will back it up with a piece of aluminum angle on the bottom to keep everything tight once everything is wrapped in carpet and bolted together, with stainless fasteners of course.

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Timtactical
Posts: 123
Joined: 10 Jul 2014, 01:04
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

I just ordered this little guy:
https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/on-the- ... 19860.html

Garmin echoMAP 50dv, I also build a transducer pad on the transom that will hold two transducers. This finder will go up front so I can use it while fishing. I have another older garmin fishfinder 80 that I am debating on mounting in the rear of the boat or getting rid of.

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Timtactical
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Location: Kansas

Landau 1456 Jon Build

Post by Timtactical »

With the leaking rivets set, I prepped the hull for gluvit. It is an epoxy that is designed to seal boat hulls. Rivets, cracks, etc., it is designed to flex with he boat unlike jb weld or other epoxy's. I started by pressure washing the whole boat, sanding all the rivets and the area around the rivets, then wiping down with lacquer thinner. I dabbed the gluvit on the rivets to fill the area around the rivets then spread it out over the rivets.

I found this while sanding:
Image

Image

Image

I was going to seal the inside but after thinking about it, it would be impossible to seal the area between the bow and the hull, so that is why I went this route.