De-pro'ing a Tracker

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Bmac

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2012-02-18_16-24-50_133b.jpg2012-02-18_16-25-22_448.jpg2012-02-05_13-12-31_825.jpgI know this is the opposite of what most of you are doing,and that I could sell my Pro 17 to buy a jon boat. But, I got a good deal on this one and I already own it. Besides, I'm a hands-on kinda guy looking for a winter project. Some of you might remember my Project Fishtoon build a few yrs. ago (still running strong and fishes great).

The Tracker is solid,hardly been used. There are no leaks,and the trailer is like new. I did replace the lower deck and foam after I purchased it,as well as hanging the Honda 50 on it from the toon. Fished it 1/2 dozen times in the last two yrs.,but don't really like it for catfishing.

It rides well enough for a 17' aluminum "jon boat",but here are my dislikes. I mostly drift,or troll for cats. The tracker is too stern heavy to drift right. Water splashes onto the back deck when the waves start getting big,while the bow is bobbing up and down over them. I don't like sitting in the seats up on the decks in rough water. Too much rocking back and forth up there. Does fine when I'm on the lower deck. There's not enough room on the lower deck,and the lil console is just in the way. It seems to be designed more for looks than function.

So, I want to open this thing up. Remove the decks (as much as possible),take as much weight off it as I can,remove all wood,go with an aluminum deck and transom,and either go with a center console or oldschool with a tiller for the Honda. Thinking about a camo paint job,with a tuff coating on the interior.

I know the sides will have to be reinforced,which will be part of this build. Anyone done something like this to their Tracker? I've looked at a lot of builds on here to study what I'd have to do to de-pro this tracker.
 
Lightening the load will help. Boat is narrow so that will make your goal more challenging, but with redistributing weight you may get the results you're shooting for.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
When I mounted the Honda on it I hung it on an extra JP I had laying around. This was before I ever splashed it,so no idea if it'd make any difference but they have helped on every other boat I've owned. What I learned was it probably made it worse by moving weight back. I couldn't achieve much positive trim without it porposing. One trip I had a 180 lb buddy sit on the front deck while underway. She smoothed out and laid down,could apply a lot more trim,and gained 3 mph top end.

Hoping to gain 2"-3" of freeboard at the rear by shedding 250+ lbs.,and moving weight forward. Have a wide open layout,drift higher and straighter,and gain some speed while I'm at it.
 
Finally bringing this project back into the garage to work on this winter. One of the ideas I had of this build is to keep this simple enough for most guys to do at home,and to reclaim as much aluminum as possible.

Stripped it down throwing everything away except the aluminum I might re-use later. Guessing I gutted 400 lbs of weight out of it. I had two of these stacks of aluminum panels I saved back,along with any angle or channel.

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A lot of room in these once they're opened up. I will need to reinforce the sides after removing the decks. The gunwales are surprisingly stiff,but I'm still going to add side stiffeners where the decks tied in. The front bulkhead bracket will need trimmed down,and the first two ribs up front need built up to extend the floor forward.

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Found a tiller for the Honda 50, going old school with this one.

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Some tools that I used so far is a air chisel with a tip for solid rivets,a sawsall,a chop saw with a carbide blade,drillpress with a holesaw,a cheap sheet metal brake and shears from harbor freight,and a table saw for ripping down the aluminum panels.

The ribs in these are 1 3/4" wide on top,with a 2" channel straddling above to create the floor joist. I matched these channels to solid rivet to the sides,so I'd have a base to attach the stiffeners to.

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I then made templates for the stiffeners out of cardboard,and made 6" rips off the reclaimed panels on my tablesaw. Used the shears and brake to shape them.

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They will be riveted to the channel added to the sides,and to the floor stringers. I will also use these as a means to carry rods. The tubes I'll shorten later.

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I'll wait to attach them until the 1/8" aluminum deck is fit.

Currently working on building up the front stringers to extend the lower deck forward. The new lower deck will be 12 1/2' long,open front to back.

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You can probably sell a lot of the stuff your throwing away like fuel tank, console, etc. I know rebuilding the boat I am right now it's hard to find parts.
 
looking forward to seeing your progress, should be plenty of room for moving around with everything out of the way
 
Great looking project you have bmac.

You will enjoy all the space with the open deck especially the tiller steer.
Makes for a real maneuverable craft. Keep it up!
 
Bmac said:
I'll wait to attach them until the 1/8" aluminum deck is fit.

Currently working on building up the front stringers to extend the lower deck forward. The new lower deck will be 12 1/2' long,open front to back.

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I like seeing all your framing pictures and aluminum work. I am taking notes (and probably taking some ideas) for our build! Thanks for sharing your project.
 
firefly said:
Great looking project you have bmac.

You will enjoy all the space with the open deck especially the tiller steer.
Makes for a real maneuverable craft. Keep it up!


That's what it's all about. I've had a lot of boats over the last 30 yrs. All the way up to 22' go fast glass boats. Now my toon,and this one which will be coming full circle to where it all started. A tiller jon. Use to have a lot of fun with my 1st. This will be pretty high tech comparably though,with a 4 stroke, AGM batts, HD graphs, a remote control trolling motor that'll anchor down. OK, not exactly roughing it,but it'll still be a fun puddle jumper.
 
You really need to add pods on the rear of that hull. It will float it higher and add planing surface. Get your gas tank up front. If you are going to go a remote t-motor, get a Terrova. The support if anything happens it it will be easier to find someone to work on it. Get a 24 volt or a 36 volt and never look back. I can fish and troll for days with my new 80lb Terrova. Make sure to get a i-pilot.

Livewell????????? I am trying to decide on one of them myself. I have a large cooler that I have been using, but I may do a truck tool box one to mount solid.
 
I'll definitely look at the pods. If i decide to add a jet drive to the honda it'll probably happen. Already planned on moving the fuel tank and batts to the front. Picked up this foam filled fuel cell to take the beating up there. That's also why I'm going with AGM'S for batteries.

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I have the big 36v terrova I-pilot on my toon. They are efficient. I have a newer 55 powerdrive that I can install the I-pilot head on. I could fish all day on a 27 series deep cell. I don't beat the banks bass fishing,so I'll probably go with 2 of those and call it good.
 
For live wells or bait tanks I have an assortment that can be swapped out depending on what I'm fishing for that day. Don't keep fish very often unless we're planning a fish fry. So I won't mount anything permanent. Even any seats used will be removable.


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Really looking forward to your build , I'm pretty much at the same stage you are and hope to tackle mine through the winter as well.
Where did you get the fuel tank ?
 
Bigwrench said:
Really looking forward to your build , I'm pretty much at the same stage you are and hope to tackle mine through the winter as well.
Where did you get the fuel tank ?
Not to hijack this thread, but Bigwrench, my ad about the 23 gallon fuel tank was taken down, but it is still available if you are interested.
I am really enjoying following this build- sorry to interrupt!
 
I don't think you'll get a 23 gal. tank under the front deck of a tracker. I chose this 10 gal. tank for it's size. The factory tank was 12 gals.,but never came close to emptying it on an outing.

Found mine on ebay. This guy sells a lot of them on there every week,so don't go crazy bidding on one. I seen these go anywhere from $80-$170. Got mine for the $80. Lol Wait them out,and bid late as possible. If you miss there will be another one next week.

I got one with foam,but I'm using straight gas. If you pre-mixed not sure if I'd recommend the foam.
 
One of my goals was to shorten the front deck as much as possible,with the fuel tank and batts. underneath. The easiest way was to extend the (for lack of a better term) nose cap back by adding 1/8" aluminum plate behind it,then cover it with a no-slip mat. The only reason I'll ever be up on this short deck will be throwing a cast net for shad,or to shoot a few carp. Having a lip around the deck would be nice when chucking a 10' net,especially in the dark. Besides, I don't like the looks of that tracker "cap". Reminds me of the domed cap on the old lund I had.


Since this is a winter project I'm going to look at cutting this back,so that I can have a 1 1/2" tall ledge around the front deck. Because this cap is structural I'll have to tie the front end back together with the new deck and stringers.


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My rebuild is actually a Bass Attacker but I want to do something similar with the bow area
Here's what I have now

And here's what I want to try and do , this is a Ranger Aluminum layout
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I'd like to have more of a drop to the deck also to install the flat bow controls and graph though.
 

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