14' Sears Gamefisher Version 2

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Macrosill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
106
Reaction score
0
Location
Long Island, NY
I started my original mod years ago and never finished. You can see the original version here - https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=33154

I recently decided to redo the original mod and finish the mod this time.

I started by ripping out all the old wood framing and deck a few weeks ago. The weather has been less than cooperative so I had to wait until today to start V2.

Today I started by doing a leak test. I filled the boat with water up to the water line as best as I could figure.
IMG_2653 (Small).JPG

I found one seeping spot up front in the Vee area.
IMG_2646 (Small).JPG

The others were where the transom meets the hull on the bottom. One of the starboard side corner and the other closer to port by the drain plug.
IMG_2655 (Small).JPG
IMG_2654 (Small).JPG

I am thinking of just using some 5200 and "chaulking" the transom seam on the inside and call it done. Then the seep up front in the Vee, not sure how to tackle that one.

After the leak test and draining the boat we, my youngest and I, started to remove the 2 remaining bench seats. We drilled out the rivets and filled the holes on the hull with new solid rivets. They were easier than expected.
IMG_2658 (Small).JPG

After the seats were removed I noticed water draining from the foam. The water level during the leak test was above the bottom of the seats and it seems the factory foam soaked up some water. Look in the rear corner of the picture below, you can see the water stream flowing from the foam to the asphalt.Not surprising since it looked like styrofoam, the little white balls. I am glad those are out.
IMG_2667 (Small).JPG
IMG_2665 (Small).JPG
Next was to start the framing with the 1" x 1/8" angle aluminum. I was able to get the floor joists framed under the main floor, the beginning cross members of the front and rear deck along with the side supports for the side storage.
IMG_2670 (Small).JPG
IMG_2671 (Small).JPG
IMG_2668 (Small).JPG
IMG_2669 (Small).JPG
More to follow
 
Looks good.

I now know less than you about re-riveting. I think, though, I'd try re-bucking those half dozen rivets that stick out from the transom. It appears that they'd be easy to get to and, if the re-bucking didn't work...your caulking would still be doable.

richg99
 
I was hoping to be finished by now but work and weather got in the way. I am not complaining because the OT can fund more of the boat but the days off were mostly a washout. And because of those 2 factors the boat mod was put on the back burner because of other springtime maintenance around the house.

Anyway, I was able to spend more than a few hours on the build today. I finished the main floor area, added side lockers, started the front deck and framed in the battery tray near the front. One of the goals for the side lockers were to store the oars. Both oars fit with lots of room to spare in only one side as seen in the photo. Nice easy in and out too. NICE!

IMG_2817 (Small)1.jpg

IMG_2818 (Small)1.jpg
 
Looks good! I love these styles of hull. I think my next project will be a v hull. So classic!
 
If I may offer some constructive suggestions in the spirit of continuous improvement ... but the rivet tail shown was deformed a tad too much and it looks like you don't have the correct impact head for brazier rivets. They are only $10-$13 here: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248

Use of a tool that doesn't fully impart the bucking force to the tail could cause you to over-work the rivet. You might eventually 'get there', but you you could be damaging the sealing joint between the head and tail, if not work hardening the rivet to where it won't last as long (as in many, many years) of service life as one properly set.
 
DaleH said:
If I may offer some constructive suggestions in the spirit of continuous improvement ... but the rivet tail shown was deformed a tad too much and it looks like you don't have the correct impact head for brazier rivets. They are only $10-$13 here: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248

Use of a tool that doesn't fully impart the bucking force to the tail could cause you to over-work the rivet. You might eventually 'get there', but you you could be damaging the sealing joint between the head and tail, if not work hardening the rivet to where it won't last as long (as in many, many years) of service life as one properly set.

Dale,
Constructive criticism is always welcomed by me. I much appreciate the advice, unfortunately it is a bit late. All the solid rivets are complete. Well, maybe there are a couple left that are above the waterline and they will just fill the hole from the old rivet that was drilled out.
 
Not much progress today. Had to run to the store twice so that killed some time.

I started on the storage bins where the front seat used to be. This has to be the hardest part of the build thus far. I had the bins sitting nicely but there was no way to support the deck around it. I am used to working with wood so it is easy to add support as needed. With the aluminum the rivets get in the way. I did the storage bin support 3 times. The first 2 were not going to to work. Three time is a charm I guess. Live and learn.

I am down to cutting everything by hand with a hacksaw. The chop saw blade broke a tooth after throwing a piece of angle. My thumb seems to have been sprained in the process. The band saw blade teeth fill up to quickly and I spend more time cleaning it than cutting with it. Hacksaw and file it is for now.
 
Made some more progress yesterday. Spent a beautiful day in the sun having fun.

The framing is mostly finished. There may be a support piece needed here or there but the main structure is done.

Next is wiring, flotation and then the decking.

IMG_2841 (Small).JPG

IMG_2843 (Small).JPG
 
The boat has been sitting in the garage for over a year. I am determined to get it done this summer.

I added 4 sheets of 4x8x1" xps foam today

e529d4e4eccb4aef8725101145cda2d2.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
richg99 said:
OK That was easy...what's next?
RTD Plywood, Helsman Spar Urethane and carpet. Not sure if I am going to go with 15/32 or 19/32. Leaning towards 15/32 to save weight. Suggestions?

I need 4 sheets to get all but the front deck in one piece. If I do the main floor in 2 pieces I can get it down to 3 sheets. Would you go with a 1 piece floor or save 28 dollars and do it in 2 pieces?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Plywood cut. It was a long day. I was able to get everything cut from three sheets. And the floor is one piece. I used 15/32 RTD. By itself it is flimsy but once cut and supported by the framing it is great.

I have a gallon of helmsman standing by with a natural bristle 4" brush. Maybe this weekend or next week!.

692bae0fb5fdfa9c4cfe9e6779eff089.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Macrosill said:
I was hoping to be finished by now but work and weather got in the way. I am not complaining because the OT can fund more of the boat but the days off were mostly a washout. And because of those 2 factors the boat mod was put on the back burner because of other springtime maintenance around the house.

Anyway, I was able to spend more than a few hours on the build today. I finished the main floor area, added side lockers, started the front deck and framed in the battery tray near the front. One of the goals for the side lockers were to store the oars. Both oars fit with lots of room to spare in only one side as seen in the photo. Nice easy in and out too. NICE!

View attachment 1


Great build thread, I look forward to seeing what it looks like when it's complete. I was wondering... on your floor joists, I see you have them supported in the middle with angled aluminum and on each end. On the ends of the joists, are they touching the rib as it meets the side walls or are they partially suspended? If they touch, did you just cut them at an angle to match the floor?
 
flippin74 said:
Macrosill said:
I was hoping to be finished by now but work and weather got in the way. I am not complaining because the OT can fund more of the boat but the days off were mostly a washout. And because of those 2 factors the boat mod was put on the back burner because of other springtime maintenance around the house.

Anyway, I was able to spend more than a few hours on the build today. I finished the main floor area, added side lockers, started the front deck and framed in the battery tray near the front. One of the goals for the side lockers were to store the oars. Both oars fit with lots of room to spare in only one side as seen in the photo. Nice easy in and out too. NICE!

View attachment 2

View attachment 1

Great build thread, I look forward to seeing what it looks like when it's complete. I was wondering... on your floor joists, I see you have them supported in the middle with angled aluminum and on each end. On the ends of the joists, are they touching the rib as it meets the side walls or are they partially suspended? If they touch, did you just cut them at an angle to match the floor?

Here is a close up showing the detail you are asking about. I cropped an old picture from 2017 so hopefully it is clear enough for you to see. The floor joists are cut at an agle to closely match the angle of the floor rib, but not touch. Then it is supported with a short piece of ange which is attached to the rib and the joist. The very last one in the picture is attached directly to the rib. The picture shows it better than I can explain it. LOL

IMG_2671.JPG
 
This is perfect! Thanks so much for uploading this pic. Yes, it is hard to put into words. I was wondering if my question was even going to make sense lol. Thanks again. I had pretty much given up and settled on building around my benches till I saw your build. Really like your floor joists connected to the ribs with angled alum. I can't wait to get home to start dismantling the benches! =D>
 
One coat one on the top and 3 sides of each piece. I should have all sides with one coat before the end of the day.

767c0eb622943e10e54e16226f1b8d9b.jpeg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Second coat finished yesterday afternoon. Third coat was planned for today but the weather is not cooperating. If I do not get it done today I will have to wait until Friday.
 

Latest posts

Top