1981 Alumacraft F16 16’ V Hull winter project

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2barf4

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Picked up this alumacraft a few weeks ago. Boat didnt need much but I figured i’d throw in a floor, new console, new deck, some paint and wire it up for bilge pump, nav lites, leds, fishfinder, etc. looks like the rack mount steering was already a tight fit behind the console so i was only able to narrow the new console by a couple inches. Steering wheel dont turn too well, gonna have to try and free it up somehow ..
 

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Cutting middle bench really opened up a lot of floor space. I wanted to do the same thing to my gregor but the benches on those boats are welded down to the hull and add a lot of support. I got the cut bench boxed in with supports and tied into the new floor, then mounted swivel seats on top. Windshield is mounted but need to add support on each side, holes already drilled for supports but not sure what to use .. maybe aluminum angle? Any ideas on what to put on edges of windshield like a trim or rubber? It is 1/4 24x12 plexiglass and seems sharp enough to rip thru the boat cover
 

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2barf4 said:
Cutting middle bench really opened up a lot of floor space. I wanted to do the same thing to my gregor but the benches on those boats are welded down to the hull and add a lot of support. I got the cut bench boxed in with supports and tied into the new floor, then mounted swivel seats on top. Windshield is mounted but need to add support on each side, holes already drilled for supports but not sure what to use .. maybe aluminum angle? Any ideas on what to put on edges of windshield like a trim or rubber? It is 1/4 24x12 plexiglass and seems sharp enough to rip thru the boat cover
I would use some type of rubber trim and run it completely around the window with the seam at the bottom so the wood can sandwich it and hold it in place

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I ordered some 1/4 vinyl trim for the windshield, it says its flexible and the edges are rounded so the boat cover wont rip. Plus i wont get cut if i have to grab it in a oh $#!+ situation on the water. Also while searching for other alumacraft builds i came across the previous owner’s build thread here on tin boats. Having the front deck already framed out is great, very sturdy and still lots of space for hatches for fuel tanks, going to use wood instead of aluminum though .. aluminum decks get burning hot in the sun. Old build thread here - https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=35505
 
I have a similar boat that I am currently in the process of restoring. I was wondering how stable it is on the water with the deck up much higher . I remember as a kid in a v hull that moving from side to side would majorly shift the boat even with 3 of us in it . Also any basic info on how you laid the deck looks really nice .
 
I havent had the boat out yet with temps in the 30s and the river iced over. The front deck the previous owner framed it out with aluminum angle and aluminum ramps and had a sheet of aluminum on top. Im going to use 1/2 ply on top because wood doesnt burn my feet. a hatch on port side for a 6 gallon or 12 gallon gas tank will help balance the weight of me and the console. Its not tippy, i have a front deck on my 13’ gregor and i always go up there to fish, pull anchor, etc
 
Thanks guys ill get some more pictures as i make progress with the rebuild. Kind of going for the classic boston whaler look - white paint and woodgrain
 
The steering wheel is hard to turn so im trying to lubricate the steering cable. Are these servicable? I pulled the cable out of the tube at the motor but i cant see how to get any oil in there. Edit: nevermind about steering i just ordered a seachoice rotary kit since a new cable was just as much money as the kit, the smaller rotary helm should allow me to shave at least 4 inches off the width of the side console for more walking room on the boat
 

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Installed the deck today. 3/8 ply with a hinged lid for a extra gas tank
 

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