Rhyan Craft: Now BRINE CRAFT

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grizzly
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Post by grizzly »

1. leaking wheel seals, can see it in your pics
2. scrape, soap, and scrub
3. new trailer bearing kits. comes with new bearings, races, and seals. and i'd get some new dust caps too.
nice looking boat. love the paint.
We have only this moment; Shining like a star in our hand, and melting like a snowflake.
My Boat: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7047
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Brine
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Post by Brine »

grizzly wrote:1. leaking wheel seals, can see it in your pics
2. scrape, soap, and scrub
3. new trailer bearing kits. comes with new bearings, races, and seals. and i'd get some new dust caps too.
nice looking boat. love the paint.
Thanks Grizzly.

I haven't painted yet tho??? The black on the bottom is Steelflex.

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grizzly
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Post by grizzly »

yeah i know, i just meant the 'hardening liquid you applied that changes the boats color' looks good. i should have done something like that to mine. anyway, looking good. cant wait to see it done!
We have only this moment; Shining like a star in our hand, and melting like a snowflake.
My Boat: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7047
My Photo Page:https://www.flickr.com/photos/swilliams74/

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Loggerhead Mike
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Post by Loggerhead Mike »

sulferic acid will take it rite off if you can find it. its mostly used in auto detailing

a rag and diesel fuel will also get alot of it off before you try washing it again

boats lookin good!

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baptistpreach
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Post by baptistpreach »

My trailer looked a LOT like yours, and my wheels were exactly the same. check out my build and you can see how the trailer turned out. I've got a link in my sig, I used a wire wheel on the drill, and then used a scraper to get the spots that I couldn't get. I also primed and painted my wheels now they look like new aluminum rims.
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Brine
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Post by Brine »

baptistpreach wrote:My trailer looked a LOT like yours, and my wheels were exactly the same. check out my build and you can see how the trailer turned out. I've got a link in my sig, I used a wire wheel on the drill, and then used a scraper to get the spots that I couldn't get. I also primed and painted my wheels now they look like new aluminum rims.
Yes BP, I followed your build. I was one of your biggest fans! :lol:

I hope mine will turn out 1/2 as nice as yours did. A couple more questions while I'm thinking of it. All of the nut's/bolts/washers that hold on all of the brackets are rusty. Can I soak these things in something and reuse them, or should I invest in all new hardware? The threads seem to be ok, although I let some WD40 soak on all of them before trying to take them all off. I'm guessing once I put the bolts back on, I shouldn't have a reason to take them off again anytime soon, and I can just put the Herculiner over them too. Anyone think that's a bad idea?

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baptistpreach
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Post by baptistpreach »

If it was me, I'd get new hardware. You don't have to buy stainless, and its really not that much. I bought mine at Ace (which is always overpriced) and I spend maybe $10 for new everything. You could try to salvage it, but its just some nuts and bolts, and its REALLY nice when putting it back together when the bolts and washers go on nice and smooth. Kind of therapeutic after hassling with the rusty ones. 8)
Living proof that anyone can, if they just try.
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Brine
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Post by Brine »

baptistpreach wrote:If it was me, I'd get new hardware. You don't have to buy stainless, and its really not that much. I bought mine at Ace (which is always overpriced) and I spend maybe $10 for new everything. You could try to salvage it, but its just some nuts and bolts, and its REALLY nice when putting it back together when the bolts and washers go on nice and smooth. Kind of therapeutic after hassling with the rusty ones. 8)
I think you're right. I'm supposed to pick up the Herculiner on Wed, so I'll price out/buy the stainless hardware to replace.

Thanks

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Brine
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Post by Brine »

Another trailer question. I stole this pic from Codemans build.

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From what I have read, this is the best position for the bunks (to be between the outermost chines). Right?

My trailer bunks have a bracket mechanism that elevates the bunk above the cross supports and allows the bunk to swivel. Does anyone see the value in using them as opposed to what Codeman did by just laying them on the frame? I guess it provides a little softer impact on the hull when loading. Not quite sure what other benefits they offer.

Also, I have 3 keel rollers that seem to be below the height of the bunks. Are these installed to allow for a different boat to be used on the trailer? I don't understand how the rollers are of any use if the bottom of the hull is flat, and they don't touch the rollers. I keep reading that they are there to aid in centering the boat, but again, I don't see how that would work with my boat.

Here is the pic of what I'm talking about.
Image

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Zum
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Post by Zum »

Although I only have one roller on my trailer,the center chime does go on it so I suppose it's helping me center the boat.
Image

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Brine
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Post by Brine »

Wow. If only all of my weekends were 3 day weekends. \:D/

I only had 1 free day to work on the trailer, but work I did. First thing I did was take off the wheels, and start scraping.
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And then used the drill and wire brush
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And a final rinse
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I then wirebrushed the entire trailer, used a scotch sprite pad where the brush wouldn't fit, blew it off, then wiped it down with acetone and it looked like this.
Image
Image

While I was using the wire brush, I uncovered a decal that evidently had been spray painted over :o
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The trailer then got 2 coats of Herculiner. Don't mind the wheel stand, I am replacing it.
Image
Image

Closeup
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I guess time will tell how it holds up. I really wanted to find something that wouldn't chip like my other trailer has. The trailer took about 1/2 gallon to put on two coats, and I will have some more to do like the place where the wheel stand is, the inside of the fenders, and the bow stop. It should also provide good grip to walk around on.

On to the next project!!!

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Zum
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Post by Zum »

That turned out real nice.
Way to put the time in.
Image

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bassboy1
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Post by bassboy1 »

In my experience, putting your bunks like Codeman has it is probably your best bet. That is the way I have them on a boat very similar to yours. Y'all have got it easy, seeing as you have flat crossbars. I wanted flat bunks, but I, of course, had dropped crossbars. Ironically, the Alumacraft I plan on working on soon, which has a modified vee, that continues to the transom, has flat crossbars. Just my luck.

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Brine
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Post by Brine »

bassboy1 wrote:In my experience, putting your bunks like Codeman has it is probably your best bet. That is the way I have them on a boat very similar to yours. Y'all have got it easy, seeing as you have flat crossbars. I wanted flat bunks, but I, of course, had dropped crossbars. Ironically, the Alumacraft I plan on working on soon, which has a modified vee, that continues to the transom, has flat crossbars. Just my luck.
Are you saying to not use the brackets as were originally installed? Not sure the bunks would clear the roller brackets (that are welded on) if I just fastened 2 x 4's directly to the cross bars. You can see them in one of the pics with the red decal on the trailer. Is there any other reason to reinstall those swivel brackets?

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fullmoon
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Post by fullmoon »

Brine, great looking so far. I am doing a 14'er and am interested in your console and 15 hp. If you still have them let me know. Thanks. I can be reached at 770-310-8080, Ed

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