Boat Corrosion

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Hunter24
Posts: 3
Joined: 04 Aug 2021, 20:26
Location: Leamington ontario

Boat Corrosion

Post by Hunter24 »

So I bought this boat a couple of years ago. It is a 2000 Starcraft starfire 190. After the first year I noticed paint blistering and thought nothing of it. Ended up after cleaning it up there was several pin holes. I believe it was a mixture between the foam inside and he had some things grounded to the boat. This is and was strictly a fresh water boat. Just curious if anyone has seen this before and what my options would be? I don’t really want to rip apart everything inside just to find out no one can do anything about it. It mainly seems to be on the starboard side at the back right at the water line. The metal transom is bad too. But I am figuring it has to maybe do with the wood from factory. Really like this boat don’t really want to just get rid of it I would really like to fix it. Temporarily fixed it with epoxy on the outside. Seems to be holding but i know not fixing it it is probably just getting worse on the inside.
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DaleH
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: Eastern Mass

Boat Corrosion

Post by DaleH »

Well, I've seen worse, like the hull in my signature - "16' Starcraft NEW Transom Skins" that looked like it got shot multiple times with 00 buck from a shotgun.

Let me ask 1st, do you keep this on atrailer or is it moored or docked in the water? Also remove any bonding to the hull the PO did. Go back to the battery or to an Ancor brand 'Power Post' (acts like a remote ground, but is cabled to your battery negative post).

Here's what I would do ... but dependent on your answer above, I might add other suggestions.
  1. Remove anything and EVERYTHING off the tin panels where you now see any evidence of corrosion
  2. Ensure you remove any 'white' corrosion in the holes, then sand inside with agressive NEW 60 to 8- grit metal paper
  3. Wipe area well with white vinegar, then clean cloth with water on it - let dry
  4. Place duck tape on 'outside' of hull over hole
  5. Mix up West Systems G-Flex 650 (only $22 a kit) as it is a FLEXIBLE epoxy and fill the hole. You want a LARGE plug or blob of goop on the inside. You 'may' need to tip the hull sideways so as to keep the epoxy on the hole as it cures.Or keep wiping it back onto the reapir area. If you had cabosil fibers on hand, you couldthicken it somewhat or wait a tad until it begins to 'kick'. You can mix it reliably in tiny amounts (2 to 1 mix). I myself would not use a hard epoxy like JB Weld here ...
  6. When cured, remove tape (naptha or gas is your friend here, to remove any adhesive) and see how flush it is. If needed, skim coat a coat from the outside, but tape off surrounding area well, to within 1/4" or so of repair/hole
  7. Once satisfied, sand outside flush, multiple grits, and paint. Any bare tin should also be prepped with white vinegar (it etches aluminum), then rinsed and prime with aluminum primer when dry, multiple light/thin coats better than one globby thick one ...
  8. Paint as needed, I recommend Rust-Oleum regular enamal or their hard 'topside' paint version (darn hard, glossy finish!)
Go enjoy the boat ... and just keep an eye on it.

If you have other questions, ask away and SHOW pictures as needed.

FWIW I've seen this on Starcafts of mid-90s to later vintage, (mine was a '96) believe it how the wood was or wasn't treated, if there's wood against those surfaces affected.

Hunter24
Posts: 3
Joined: 04 Aug 2021, 20:26
Location: Leamington ontario

Boat Corrosion

Post by Hunter24 »

I keep it on a trailer but he had a boat house and that is where it lived. He owned a cottage and he always had it in there.
I also re did his wiring and grounded everything to the battery and added a marine grade shut off for the battery.

And thank you for your suggestions it is highly appreciated. I guess my biggest concern is getting to the effected area to fix it. Not to sure how easy the interior is going to come out or if it will be blocked by other plates underneath.

I also know I have some leaking rivets. I hope it isn’t from corrosion too. What would be my best bet for that? Go around and rebuck them all?

Also should I put the foam back in when I take it out or would it be better not to put new stuff in?

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DaleH
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Boat Corrosion

Post by DaleH »

Hunter24 wrote: 04 Aug 2021, 22:12 I also know I have some leaking rivets. I hope it isn’t from corrosion too. What would be my best bet for that? Go around and rebuck them all?
IMHO, for NON-saltwater boats, most loose rivets come from 'wet' hulls and freezing temperatures causing the rivets to be stressed over time, recall ice expands where water changes state from water to ice. I've seen 40-year old tin hulls used in saltwater to boot, that ate stored upside-down when out of the water, all cold NE Winter long ... and they don't leak a drop.

Otherwise loose rivets from use, or abuse (hitting a ton of wakes at speed) or use like trailering a tin hull at 70MPH, on hard asphalt roads, on a poorly supported trailer is one sure way to loosen them up, LOL!

Yes, rebuck them IF you can get access to both sides. Else best to make waterproof from the outside. You can coat each or suspect rivet head with that G-Flex 650 or coat the entire hull (part immersed inwater) with Steel-Flex.
Hunter24 wrote: 04 Aug 2021, 22:12 Also should I put the foam back in when I take it out or would it be better not to put new stuff in?
Depends, I'd re-use if could guaranteee it is 'dry'. Otherwise closed-cell insulation foam boards or even cheap pool noodles work, especially for a trailered boat.

Hunter24
Posts: 3
Joined: 04 Aug 2021, 20:26
Location: Leamington ontario

Boat Corrosion

Post by Hunter24 »

Okay that makes sense. Especially if the foam is soaked he had it in an un-heated boat house and winters get pretty bad here. So I can see where that would happen.

And also what would your opinion be as to why it started doing this is such a weird place? Mixture of the wood, foam and electrolysis?

Just still debating if it’s worth the time or time for a different boat