confused about painting

DeathTaco · Feb 15, 2010

We are planning to fiberglass the bottom of a 1448 john boat in order to seal up the holes, now would it be okay to use one layer or are more layers necessary? Another quick question; when it comes to painting the hull, after applying the self etching primer, would we be okay to use an acrylic exterior house paint or is a marine grade paint needed?

dyeguy1212 · Feb 15, 2010

Use marine paint. And only use the self etching primer is its a bare (down to the aluminum) hull.

damifinowfish · Feb 15, 2010

Is this an aluminum boat your putting the fiberglass on?
If it is why not just paint it with steelflex?
There has been a lot of talk about it on this site.
So much in fact that is what I'm going to use to finish my project to help with the pin hole leaks of my old boat.

Damifinow fish

rusmir · Feb 16, 2010

yes use marine eopxy it looks like car bondo hardens like rock dont use fiberglass it dosent expand and it will crack.. so ur better of using marine epoxy and 5200 sealent or jb weld lol and then steelflex. but best to do is weld..

DeathTaco · Feb 16, 2010

Thanks for yalls responses. We have decided to go with the steelflex, actually cheaperhttps://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=3&t=12150#. Now i don't want to get off topic, but we can just leave the steelflex as the exterior layer correct? Not really sure if it is a paint, or a sealer, or epoxy type of chem?

Brine · Feb 16, 2010

Yes, it's the outer layer. Run a search on here and get all the tips of using it before you do it yourself.

What kind of holes are you trying to seal up? Got any pics of them?

DeathTaco · Feb 18, 2010

The majority of the leaks are coming from around some bad rivets, we were planning on getting the marine epoxy to seal them up before we do a coat of the steelflex. We stripped off the paint and all of the rust which had acquired on the rivets. That should be all that's required to seal her up nice and sea worthy, correct?

Ouachita · Feb 18, 2010

Rebuck the loose rivets first before you do the steelflex. It may not leak after you tighten them.

bassboy1 · Feb 18, 2010

Ouachita said:
Rebuck the loose rivets first before you do the steelflex. It may not leak after you tighten them.

Definitely. There never was much trouble with leaky riveted boats before the steelflex and gluv it gimmicks came along. While sometimes it may be easier to steelflex the boat, it can be fixed without it.

Captain Ahab · Feb 19, 2010

Ouachita said:
Rebuck the loose rivets first before you do the steelflex. It may not leak after you tighten them.

Absolutely correct! You just start smearing gunk over a bad rivet and at the end of the day you still have a bad rivet. It will wear and tear right through your sealer and leak again. Tighten 1st seal 2nd

Rat · Feb 19, 2010

Another vote for re-bucking the rivets. If you don't and you just apply the Steel Flex over loose rivets the rivets will move and crack the Steel Flex; and you still have a leak. Someone has a picture of this on here somewhere, maybe it is Dearl.

Mr. Mom · Feb 20, 2010

When you re-buck does it matter which end you whack? The rounded end or the thin end.

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