bilge pump issues

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malaki

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Location
edgar co. Il.
My 500gph pump went out and all could find in a hurry was a 750gph. Works fine but as i feared my overflow cant keep up. The fill tube is 1/2" tubing 12" long with holes for the water to spray out. Will plugging holes help or is there a way to rig up a float switch? If it gets quiet you have 25 secon :shock: ds till massive overfill! Haha
 
Curious. Why would you need a massive bilge pump anyways for a small boat? You taking on 20 footers?
 
A couple thoughts:

1. Put a timer switch on your livewell pump so it isn't running continuously. This has a couple of benefits. It will slow down the delivery of water to your livewell (if you do not run it wide open) and it will also help the longevity of your livewell pump by not having it run continuously.

2. Since you can't find one locally, order the original sized pump online and install it instead of the 750. Add the 750 as a bilge pump if possible.
 
How about adding a rheostat to the pump - you can then "dial" it down to whatever amount of water you need

(Have an old trolling motor laying around?, hint hint hint!)
 
I thought about cutting voltage but would that hurt the pump? Just got my hrs cut at work so no more toys! :x i just have to live with it now. I like the timer idea but those arent cheap either. Thanks for the help!
 
malaki said:
I thought about cutting voltage but would that hurt the pump? Just got my hrs cut at work so no more toys! :x i just have to live with it now. I like the timer idea but those arent cheap either. Thanks for the help!


Cutting voltage will not hurt the pump - it is a DC Motor


You can even use something really cheap - like a switch for a ceiling fan
 
whoa, whoa, whoa....put down the electrical tape. Step away from the electical tape there sparky....

Sit down class, the frogmans gonna tell you a story 'bout a cool cat named Mr. Ohm. Mr. Ohm was a bad dude, that was so good with da electricals that the man made his own law. Da brotha's law is called Ohm's Law. Mr. Ohm's law had stated that when voltage is decreased (via resistance) amperage increases. He goes on to say, lower the voltage, higher the increase in amperage draw in the presence of the increasing resistance. Pickin' up what I'm puttin down? Lemme break it down for ya's jive turkeys... 8)


Well say as given, your battery is 12volts, the pump draws 10amps continually.

*You want to slow the pump down because it's pushing too much water
*The only way to do this is lower the voltage to the pump
* In order to lower the voltage, you must add resistance to the circut (either a resistor or a rehostat[dimmer kinda knob])
* When you add resistance to the circut, you will lower the voltage, the pump turns slower, less water is pushed, HOWEVER now the pump is drawing more amperage (juice) because the voltage has been lowered.

So class, what have we learned from the law. Oh, Oh, Oh from the back... "two men enter, one man leaves. two men enter, one man leaves." #-o Nope, wrong law. We have learned (all things equal, in a perfect world) that the motor that was once too strong, that used to require 10 amps of juice to run wide open, now requres considerably more juice to run at half speed ...and you can now kiss yer battery life good bye. Tinboats here!...we need as much life outta a battery as we can get.

Back to Ohms Law again....low voltage resistors are astronomically more robust and expensive over 120v AC resistors...lower the voltage, higher the aperage...more amps=a ton of heat....Like, poof, small fire, let out the majic smoke heat. And, as soon as you let out the magic smoke, you can't put it back in. A ceiling fan rehostat is made to operate at 120v (10x) the voltage of the 12v pump. Adding resistance to a 120v circut [like a dimmer on a fan] isn't going to even tickle the amperage or juice drawn by that fan. Drop it down to 12v [like the pump] the amperage is going to multiply expodentially. If you put ceiling fan dimmer on a 12v circut (granted if you can actually close the circut at 12v), you're going to blow out that switch so fast, the human body will be incapable of seeing the flash of the switch internals frying.

Now, if you wish to lower the voltage on that pump, yer gonna have to build some circut stuff. Two ways of doing this...rheostat (potentometer) {jeez do I wish the spell check was working} or a plain old resistor. A rheostat will alow you to adjust the voltage up/down variable...kinda like a gas pedal in a car. A stand alone resistor will cut the voltage to one level, slow down the pump, and leave it at one speed. Sounds easy right?...nope. Anything from a light bulb to a motor on a 12v system is pulling OMG levels of amperage electrical world speeking. OMG levels of amps requires really, really big resistors and rehostats. The standard Radio Shack/ Jameco, "grain of rice" resistors and bread board rehostats are just gonna puff smoke like a Lionel Train locomotive. If your dead set on a rehostat, start looking at supply warehouses for something off of industrial lift trucks, or real locomotives...otherwise it's gonna go "poof" in a couple of uses. The "stand alone resistor" way, off the top of my head, without doing the math, you'll need 500Kohms to 1Mohms to cut the speed in half, and you're going to need a big "ballast resistor". Automotive use ones aren't good enough, they still need massive airflow to keep them from buring up....back to the supply shop, where you'll need to find another lift truck/locomotive application, open air cooled, size of a beer can, expensive resistor to run that circut reliably.

In conclusion, buy a smaller dispalcement pump. Don't mess with the LAW! 8)
 
what brand is it? I put all 750's in my boat, and will swap you a 500 if it will work. I need a spare anyways. If it is a atwood Tsunami Ill get one and put it in the mail tomorrow.
 
Dragonman said:
=D> =D> Excellent post, Thanks for the info. Frog, you have a way with words.


Vodka happens. :mrgreen:

I gots my niece and my big sister home for the weekend. Niece'y is +3 days old....born almost 3 monhts ago, pre'mee. Crying babies make people drink, and strive for intellegent conversations that include such things as electrical theories. Me and Gran Papa Frogman, have been enjoying the peaceful quiet of the groaning air conditioner, down at the local Legion Canteen for the last 3 hours. Maliki, sorry to hear about yer issues, but I can't stand any baby chit anymore...wanna trade? Yer boat will "pop wheelies" when I'm done, ya'll just gotta take projectile vomit to both shoulders in return. I have no idea how a 10" long "person" can make a 1800sqft ranch smell like poop for 48hrs+. JIM, send hairy backed "good ole' boys" with booze....I gotta get outta this place.....

Sorry bout the hijack, I'm cashed out. ](*,)
 
Well frogman
I normally would have agreed with you but here is some text from a post a few months back, poster was talking about his TM plug getting hot and soft, sounds like too much current.


" At the end of the day, my plug heats up so much that it becomes very, very soft. I have gone through 2 plugs now." (orig poster)

Thats because at the end of the day, the voltage in the battery is dropping, since the trolling motor requires the same amount of power (read wattage) to run, the motor starts to draw more and more current (amperage) to make up for lower voltage. Not good for wire, connectors or the trolling motor.
Bigger battery or spare battery would help.
Tim (me)


Don't confuse operating characteristics of DC motors with those that run on DC. DC motors do not draw excess current to compensate for low voltage the way AC motors do. When the voltage on a deep cycle battery gets to low to run the motor, they simply slow to the point that they stop running. If what you say was correct, everyone who runs a trolling motor all day on a single battery would be burning up power plugs. (Comment from Bob Landry)

In any case, I do notice that my trolling motor slows down when my battery gets low (so maybe Bob is right) on the other hand, how do we explain orig posters hot / soft TM plug, has to be current.

I used to work on telephone switching systems (99.9% electronic) and had a few times when our commercial power went out, our batteries then started discharging, voltage started to drop slowly and when this happened, amperage drawn always went up. Sometimes so much that it could fry our electronics. But a DC motor may be different, I just don't know. Maybe we should forward this post to someone at MIT :lol:

Tim
 
Back in the 1950's it was common to control the heater motor sped with a rheostat type switch that bolted clipped to the bottom of the dash. Most of the cars/trucks back then were 6v but I would think it would still work. It could also be mounted in a panel.

3112682C.jpg

Not sure I might even have one in some of the old parts I have in inventory.

Here's a link to one too https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/12795/Chevrolet_Heater_Switch_12v_Rotary_Rheostat.html
 
That might work, but who knows for how long. Its got the nice open air coils, but ya gotta figure, a blower motor pushing air is gonna suck less juice than a bilge pump pushing water. I'm sure there's a limit on the switch.

At the end of the day, the most cost effective and reliable answer to the problem is just buy a smaller pump. They start at $12 at Walmart.
 

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