replacing old wood.

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FOX FIRE

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I looked for the search feature & for the life of me couldnt find it, maybe just overlooked it several times, and also betting this has probably been covered already but I need to know...

I have a old 10ft flat bottom that needs the wood replaced in the back of the boat where the motor mounts, someone put some ply wood in & its rotted out, I also want to put a small piece of wood on the side of the boat for another place to mount the trolling motor.

If memory serves I read something about the chemicals in presure treated wood will decay aluminum, what type of wood should be used ??

Thanks in advance.
 
All the posts I have seen say to use exterior plywood or marine plywood and a couple coats of spar urethane to seal it. Also stainless hardware. I suppose solid wood could be used if wanted and seal it also.
Tim
 
I'm in the process of replacing the transom in a new jon myself. New to me anyway. It's a really old 14.5' x 32" duracraft. It's in pretty good condiditon, just needs a little love. You're correct. The copper in pressure treated wood will react with the aluminum and eat it away.

My transom is 1.5" thick, so I'm using two pieces of 3/4" oak exterior plywood bonded together. Once it's bonded and cut to size, I'll install it and drill out all the holes. Then I'll remove it again and seal it with 5 or 6 coats of spar eurethane. That many coats is probably overkill, but I don't want to take any chances and be doing this again in a year or two. Then I'll reinstall it with SS hardware and seal the holes with 3M 5200 marine sealant.

The same goes with any wood you put in your boat. Use non pressure treated, seal it, and use SS hardware.
 
There are several options I like:

1. MDO plywood... has a coat of epoxy resin sealer on it and a very smooth face. It's manufactured to withstand the outside elements.

2. ACX... has one nice smooth sanded face with no knots or patches and exterior glue.

3. BBX... two smooth faces with a minimum of patches and exterior glue.

4. BCX... one smooth patched face and exterior glue.

If you're not going to use marine grade or MDO, you need to at least use exterior grade (that's what the X stands for in choices 2,3,and 4).

Avoid the "pretty" hardwood plywoods like oak, maple, cherry and the like. These plywoods are cabinet grade and for interior use only and aren't manufactured with the good exterior grade glue/resin like the WBP glue or phenolic (epoxy) resin. Instead, these plywoods are made with a soy bean derivative based glue that breaks down when exposed to moisture.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353393#p353393 said:
jigngrub » 21 minutes ago[/url]"]There are several options I like:

1. MDO plywood... has a coat of epoxy resin sealer on it and a very smooth face. It's manufactured to withstand the outside elements.

2. ACX... has one nice smooth sanded face with no knots or patches and exterior glue.

3. BBX... two smooth faces with a minimum of patches and exterior glue.

4. BCX... one smooth patched face and exterior glue.

If you're not going to use marine grade or MDO, you need to at least use exterior grade (that's what the X stands for in choices 2,3,and 4).

Avoid the "pretty" hardwood plywoods like oak, maple, cherry and the like. These plywoods are cabinet grade and for interior use only and aren't manufactured with the good exterior grade glue/resin like the WBP glue or phenolic (epoxy) resin. Instead, these plywoods are made with a soy bean derivative based glue that breaks down when exposed to moisture.


+1 plus i would add the spar mention before
 

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