1) Motor
- Control - Detach from motor connections on starboard side of motor, on some motors it's fastest to remove the lower pan on that side
- OB Wiring Harness - There's a large Deutsch or Amphnenol connection under the hood/cowling
- 12V leads - Disconnect from -ground point and +pos side by starter
... take pictures of all connection points and routing!
2) Rivets
Most likely 3/16" rivets
3) Where?
Buy in bulk from Jay-Cee Rivets, as they have a large inventory for great prices! See: https://www.rivetsonline.com/a187b0375a/a187b0375a
You want 'Brazier' head 1100F alloy 3/16" rivets, most likely in 3/8" length with a handful of 1/2" or perhaps even longer ones in case you need a few longer rivets, but if so, ALWAYS cut the length for best application.
4) Other
You need more tooling - see below, plus an air compressor and air hammer. On my old Starcraft with new transom 'skins' inside and out, as well as a new transom core, I put in over 300 rivets using a Harbor Freight pancake compressor and their air hammer tool (< $20). And many 100 since on other's boats too.
AIR HAMMER ANVIL SIZE - Here's a link to the proper tool to set brazier head riverts, using an air tool, for $10 to $13 ... at least when I posted those prices a year ago.
https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248
BUCKING BAR - See link for this $20 bucking bar from VintageTrailer. I ordered it and had it 2-days later.
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Bucking-Bar-p/vts-825.htm
You can use a scrap piece of metal for a bucking bar, but you DO NOT WANT a 'dimpled' bucking bar ... as you are bucking the TAIL end, not the rounded or dome-shaped Brazier head. You want a perfectly flat/square piece to bear up against the tail end of the rivet. And for best results, they must be held perpendicular to each other before
AND while pulling the trigger.
