Welded hull - big dents between ribs

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zachw

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This hull has big dents between every rib, and I'm not sure exactly how to fix these. It isn't going to be perfect.

I'm hesitant to bang these out with a hammer, for fear of stressing the welds more than they've already been stressed.

I have access to a polyurea sprayer (i.e. bed liner), and my plan was to spray the entire outside of the hull. Any chance I could smooth these out with filler of some sort before spraying?

IMG_0547.jpeg

IMG_0545.jpeg

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It would take a huge amount of filler & would add lots of weight. I'd leave them be, I doubt the dents have much impact on performance, maybe a couple mph loss.

If the appearance is bugging you, adding hdpe planks might be worth considering. You can screw them on.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
It would take a huge amount of filler & would add lots of weight. I'd leave them be, I doubt the dents have much impact on performance, maybe a couple mph loss.

If the appearance is bugging you, adding hdpe planks might be worth considering. You can screw them on.

That's an idea for sure.
 
I'm surprised to hear y'all say go for it as-is! They look pretty bad to me, but maybe it isn't worth the fix. This isn't a high-speed vessel...
 
zachw said:
I'm surprised to hear y'all say go for it as-is! They look pretty bad to me, but maybe it isn't worth the fix. This isn't a high-speed vessel...
I too would leave it alone and would never spray the outside with bed line ...
 
DaleH said:
I too would leave it alone and would never spray the outside with bed line ...

Why not? I've read good things from guys who have used K5 Boat Coatings. As well as a few on an Alaska forum.

I'll also mention it's possible to spray it with a glossy finish. It still has some texture, but it's definitely not like the stuff in actual beds.
 
Sir? You are hyper-focusing. Nobody cares what the bottom looks like. Once you put it in the water, I'd bet you never once lean out of the boat,submerge your head and look at the bottom to see how it appears.

Hyper-focusing happens when you are rehabbing an older boat and keep on going over it to see what ELSE needs to be done; you start ignoring practicalities, forget your age, ignore the fact that the VAST majority of the rest of the world doesn't care about bottoms---yours or your boat's, and go from "making it work" to "making it perfect."

Take several deep breath, smile, and finish the interior and whatever else you have in mind. You are doing a great job. =D>
 
Kismet said:
Sir? You are hyper-focusing. Nobody cares what the bottom looks like. Once you put it in the water, I'd bet you never once lean out of the boat,submerge your head and look at the bottom to see how it appears.

Hyper-focusing happens when you are rehabbing an older boat and keep on going over it to see what ELSE needs to be done; you start ignoring practicalities, forget your age, ignore the fact that the VAST majority of the rest of the world doesn't care about bottoms---yours or your boat's, and go from "making it work" to "making it perfect."

Take several deep breath, smile, and finish the interior and whatever else you have in mind. You are doing a great job. =D>

Hey I don't care what the bottom looks like. Not at all! I just want the prop to have some decent water to run in, and I want a little protection for the hull, as I'm always in shallow water.

But, it sounds like what I'm hearing is that the dents on the bottom just don't matter, and if that's the case then great.
 
zachw said:
DaleH said:
I too would leave it alone and would never spray the outside with bed line ...

Why not? I've read good things from guys who have used K5 Boat Coatings. As well as a few on an Alaska forum.

I'll also mention it's possible to spray it with a glossy finish. It still has some texture, but it's definitely not like the stuff in actual beds.

I am only speaking for myself here. Whenever I see Bed liner in a boat, the first thing that pops into my mind is what are they trying to hide or did they use it as a mickey mouse fix for a leak. Additionally, I always try to think down the road about maintenance, etc. I would hate the chore of removing bed liner if I wanted to repaint or something. I know that isn't fair to those who use it for aesthetics or other legit reasons.

BTW, my boat is about 2 years old. Not pronounced like your pic's, but I can see the where the ribs are when I look at the bottom. I'm don't worry about it. Well, unless I see daylight, then I might worry. Haha.
 
zachw said:
Kismet said:
Sir? You are hyper-focusing. Nobody cares what the bottom looks like. Once you put it in the water, I'd bet you never once lean out of the boat,submerge your head and look at the bottom to see how it appears.

Hyper-focusing happens when you are rehabbing an older boat and keep on going over it to see what ELSE needs to be done; you start ignoring practicalities, forget your age, ignore the fact that the VAST majority of the rest of the world doesn't care about bottoms---yours or your boat's, and go from "making it work" to "making it perfect."

Take several deep breath, smile, and finish the interior and whatever else you have in mind. You are doing a great job. =D>

Hey I don't care what the bottom looks like. Not at all! I just want the prop to have some decent water to run in, and I want a little protection for the hull, as I'm always in shallow water.

But, it sounds like what I'm hearing is that the dents on the bottom just don't matter, and if that's the case then great.


As long as the last 2-3’ of the bottom is flat with no roll or hook you will be fine.

It might actually be faster with the dents in between the ribs.
 
It's a little hard to tell in the picture - they can be deceiving, but looks like the dents were forced down by things being dropped inside the boat. Just banging on the hull will certainly put more stress on the welds and that wouldn't be good at all.

I think I'd put the boat upside down on sawhorses or whatever and get somebody underneath with a large, heavy bucking bar that extends well past the dents, then take a dead blow hammer - I'd try a 1# first - and start carefully tapping on the dents from above to drive the metal down to the bucking bar. Dead blow hammer has a plastic head and won't cause smiles as badly as a steel hammer and the dead blow feature concentrates the impact without bouncing. The bucking bar will keep the stress off the welds, but it's got to be held "tightly" against the metal. Any body shop worker will know exactly what I'm saying.
 
gogittum said:
It's a little hard to tell in the picture - they can be deceiving, but looks like the dents were forced down by things being dropped inside the boat. Just banging on the hull will certainly put more stress on the welds and that wouldn't be good at all.

I think I'd put the boat upside down on sawhorses or whatever and get somebody underneath with a large, heavy bucking bar that extends well past the dents, then take a dead blow hammer - I'd try a 1# first - and start carefully tapping on the dents from above to drive the metal down to the bucking bar. Dead blow hammer has a plastic head and won't cause smiles as badly as a steel hammer and the dead blow feature concentrates the impact without bouncing. The bucking bar will keep the stress off the welds, but it's got to be held "tightly" against the metal. Any body shop worker will know exactly what I'm saying.

The pics are a little deceiving- the dents are definitely bowed up in between the ribs, not pushed down. Though the same principle would apply just the other direction, right? Bucking bar on the bottom tight against the ribs, dead blow inside.
 
zachw said:
gogittum said:
It's a little hard to tell in the picture - they can be deceiving, but looks like the dents were forced down by things being dropped inside the boat. Just banging on the hull will certainly put more stress on the welds and that wouldn't be good at all.

I think I'd put the boat upside down on sawhorses or whatever and get somebody underneath with a large, heavy bucking bar that extends well past the dents, then take a dead blow hammer - I'd try a 1# first - and start carefully tapping on the dents from above to drive the metal down to the bucking bar. Dead blow hammer has a plastic head and won't cause smiles as badly as a steel hammer and the dead blow feature concentrates the impact without bouncing. The bucking bar will keep the stress off the welds, but it's got to be held "tightly" against the metal. Any body shop worker will know exactly what I'm saying.

The pics are a little deceiving- the dents are definitely bowed up in between the ribs, not pushed down. Though the same principle would apply just the other direction, right? Bucking bar on the bottom tight against the ribs, dead blow inside.

Same thing applies, but as I said before, use a heavy bucking bar. I have a length of mining cart track out in my shop that's about 14" or 16" long and weighs about ~20#. That would be perfect but I doubt that even Lou Ferrigno could hold the thing up for long. Maybe cut a length of 2x4 to wedge up under it to hold it solid to boat....?? It's got to be held "solid" or it won't do much good.

It surprises me that dead blow hammers aren't more widely known about and used. I've had my smaller one - about 1/2# - for 30 or so years now and use it frequently.
 
it will drive you crazy and make your hairs turn gray trying to straighten that

leave it alone and use it
 
Just my own personal opinion, I'd leave it as long as there isn't any "hook" at the transom. I say that because you're going to hit stuff with it no matter how careful you try to be. I can be a little OCD and I can see where it might bother you but once your false floor is in place you'll soon forget that they're there. I'd worry more about sharp creases than a dent. Another thing about those dents is once they're in the metal it stretches it and getting it out will turn into a matter of chasing it around.
 

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