deck support. HELP diagram added on page two

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RStewart

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LOCATION
Norman, OK
i like the way snowboardinmn did his front deck support. https://tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=1806&mode=view.
i have ruled out aluminum for bracing. i priced 2x2x1/8 square tubing for $ 40 /8 ft stick and 1.5x1.5x1/8 for $20. too expensive. i want to use 2x2s like snowboardinmn, or 2x3s. i think 2x4s will add too much weight, but im not sure if it will hold my weight. if you look at his, i think it would hold me fine providing there is a vertical support at every junction. i hope i made myself clear. also, i would like to know if there is any specific type of wood i should look for? im calling on the experts here so what ya think. thanks
 
Was it you that said they weighed 385lbs? If so, you might consider just decking the ribs on the floor of the boat, and putting your high deck only up front. This will help alot in stability when moving to and fro. When your center of gravity is raised, it helps to create a possible situation where if two peeps are on the boat standing, and one moves, it can throw the other off balance. This can happen in a narrow boat very easy. I am not trying to discouraged your project, but simply bringing up a safety issue for you to consider. I had a narrow 14' aluminum boat in the past. I only decked the front bench to the bow only to create storage in the bench, and battery compartment on the very front. I wanted extra weight up front to help trim the boat when under full power. I stuck the seat base for the front seat on a tall pedestal on the floor of the boat and kept my feet on the high side. I weighed 220 and it still seemed a little top heavy. Just be careful.
 
You can do it like he did his - just be sure to add more vertical braces in places like on each side of the battery box, and then again under where you will be sitting. Be sure to use atleast 3/4" exterior plywood (non treated) for the decking.

I don't know how much you weigh, but if you weigh over 350, I wouldn't deck it quite as high for stability reasons when you move from side to side and when you turn your seat to fish.. unless you always face forward when you fish, which I don't know anyone who does that.

I also wouldn't deck it that high if you plan on standing to fish. I have fished with a guy in a 14x42 flat jon that was around 350, and he only decked the floor because he said he couldn't stand to fish with the decking that high - he said it made him feel like he was going to fall out because he couldn't put enough weight in the back to balance him out being in the front. Just something to think about. You could always "test" it with it built up, then if it's not stable drop it back down
 
thanks. all good advice. I had planned on decking from the bow to the front bench and no higher than the front bench. i have planned on running the 2x2s across the ribs and then attching plywood for the floor between the decks. that would only raise the floor about 3 inches or so and give me some extra storage and a mount for another seat for those crappie fishing trips. the back, i want to cover the fuel tank area and extend about a foot infront of the rear bench so whoever is with me can have a little extra room. i am going to put it in the water like it sits and play with it to see how stable it is. i dont have a problem with decking lower than the benches, i just didnt want to have to step over them to move around the boat. i guess i could always break out the sawsall and cut the benches down. snowboardinmn i hope you dont kind i borrowed your boat. this is my plan. the black line is where the deck will stop. i plan on a deck above for trolling motor to mount on and it will come back this far from the nose. the blue line is a 2x4 laying flat to give my hatch lids extra wood to sit on. the yellow lines are 2x4s used to spread support out over a little bigger area. red lines are 2x2s. so what you all think? yes, no , maybe and why please. thanks
 

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Dude, if your'e not going to use the benches then cut the tops of them out and use them for storage! Then deck up to it, and use another piece of ply as the top of the storage with a hinge.
 
Russ010, I am not using the benches. Mine just have wood on top. I am going to remove the wood on the benches and deck the same height the benches are now. I also like the idea of doing like you did and using them for storage.
 
You'll be fine with how you are doing the bracing like in the picture.

If you put batteries up, you may want to put them either in that bench right in front or in the rear bench to offset your body weight in the front. It's nothing to cut the top out, just leave about a 1" lip on the top along the front and rear, then just make your side cuts parallel to the bottom of the boat floor.

I used a jig saw to cut out my tops, then a saw blade to cut the styrofoam - cut those into pieces, they come out easier!
 
Cool. I was hoping i could do that. This pic is another option but heavier. Also, my benches will look just like the ones in the pic without the tops. I was thinking about putting batteries in the back next to fuel tank to offset some weight.
 

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Here are a few questions, then I can give you more of an idea how to set things up - these would only be recomendations though...

1 - how many trolling motors will you have and what placement (front, rear)
2 - outboard motor? (I think I read you have a fuel tank, so I might have just answered this one)
3 - how many people will be fishing with you at 1 time
4 - how many batteries will you be running? (1 for starting, # for trolling, electronics (or which battery they will run off of)
5 - any livewell? already built in or homemade

Once you answer those, a lot more guys will probably chime in. It's also a pretty good idea for you to guess people's approximate weight including your own - that's the best indication for where to put what. I know my batteries each weigh about 60lbs, so I have 2 up front and 1 in the rear in a 12' jon, I really need them to be further to the rear, but I'll conquer that later
 
russ010 said:
Here are a few questions, then I can give you more of an idea how to set things up - these would only be recomendations though...

1 - how many trolling motors will you have and what placement (front, rear)
2 - outboard motor? (I think I read you have a fuel tank, so I might have just answered this one)
3 - how many people will be fishing with you at 1 time
4 - how many batteries will you be running? (1 for starting, # for trolling, electronics (or which battery they will run off of)
5 - any livewell? already built in or homemade

Once you answer those, a lot more guys will probably chime in. It's also a pretty good idea for you to guess people's approximate weight including your own - that's the best indication for where to put what. I know my batteries each weigh about 60lbs, so I have 2 up front and 1 in the rear in a 12' jon, I really need them to be further to the rear, but I'll conquer that later


1 - 1 trolling motor in front
2 - 9.9 johnson (yes one 6 gallon tank in rear.thought about putting batteries next to it.)
3 - usually 2 of us(me plus 1) if crappie fishing, maybe 3 total. 580 lbs with two of us.
4 - 2 batteries (1 for tm and 1 for all other electronics)
5 - no livewell yet. will probably do a portable one that I can remove when not needed.

Thanks for your help.
 
stew6371 said:
1 - 1 trolling motor in front
2 - 9.9 johnson (yes one 6 gallon tank in rear.thought about putting batteries next to it.)
3 - usually 2 of us(me plus 1) if crappie fishing, maybe 3 total. 580 lbs with two of us.
4 - 2 batteries (1 for tm and 1 for all other electronics)
5 - no livewell yet. will probably do a portable one that I can remove when not needed.

Thanks for your help.

If it were me, I would put the 2 batteries in front of the rear bench on either side where you talked about extending that rear platform. That way you won't have all of the weight in the back. I'm not sure how much gas weighs per gallon, but I know a gallon of water weighs 8lbs - so a full tank I'm sure is easily 50lbs or so including the tank. If you put them long ways, that should extend your back deck about 18" to the front, and leave you ample room in the middle for storage. As far as decking goes, I think you'll be fine with coming up to the tops of your benches... shouldn't be too bad with sturdiness, but I'd still be careful standing with 2 people until you've tried it out and gotten your sea legs.

You'll have a sweet setup once you get it completed... can't wait to see your progress
 
I know you said that you decided against aluminum, but if you can find a metal dealer locally, you can find it a lot cheaper than at say lowe's or home depot. Like probably 75% cheaper. For instance I framed my 16ft polarkraft up with 1.5x1.5 1/8 inch aluminum angle and only paid about 30 dollars per 25ft stick! Also I originally used alukabond for the top and that worked really well. That stuff can be hard to find but I lucked out and got some pretty cheap. I know aluminum is more expensive wood is just soooo heavy.
 
Tilster said:
I know you said that you decided against aluminum, but if you can find a metal dealer locally, you can find it a lot cheaper than at say lowe's or home depot. Like probably 75% cheaper. For instance I framed my 16ft polarkraft up with 1.5x1.5 1/8 inch aluminum angle and only paid about 30 dollars per 25ft stick! Also I originally used alukabond for the top and that worked really well. That stuff can be hard to find but I lucked out and got some pretty cheap. I know aluminum is more expensive wood is just soooo heavy.

I would rather have the aluminum, but even at that price it would cost me about $120 in aluminum compared to $25 worth of wood. Now if I can find it that cheap i still might consider throwing another $100 at it just to keep weight down.
 
yeah you might just check around and see if there are any wholesalers locally. I got a buddy that is a sheetmetal worker and he told about this local place that his employer bought from and they deal with the public, too. Also you may be able to find it online pretty reasonable. I forgot to mention that was a couple of years ago, too. Metal prices have cut almost in half since then.
 
I cant remember the name of it, but I looked last night and found the aluminum in 8ft stick for $20 online. If Icould find it more comparable to wood in cost I would spend the extra for less weight for sure. But at the price i found it for, I'm looking at over $400 for aluminum.
 
Ross010, good advice on the placement of things. Alright, here is a rough sketch of the way I would like the boat to turn out. Artist i am not, so please excuse me. So lets have some more opinions and suggestions. Thanks. The livewell may or may not happen. But I have two different places for it. Now color code:

red lines= 2x2s
red squares=2x2 upright supports
blue line= 2x4 laying flat(gives compartment doors more area to rest on when closed)
blue square=2x4 upright support( helps spread support over a bigger area)
gray squares=seat mounts
I hope this all makes sense.
 

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