Same here! I know Pappy like the OMC Engine Tuner product, but I've had such great results with the Seafoam products that I'm staying with it. Besides using it on OB motors, I have literally "resurrected from death" a lawnmower, chain saw, weed whacker and a pressure washer. Each was alleged to be dead and I got them all for FREE .. and all were fixed using Seafoam. I even used it in my Ford Explorer when she was running rough and it cleaned it out really well!Texas Prowler said:Seafoam Deepcreep. Best I've ever used.
DaleH said:Same here! I know Pappy like the OMC Engine Tuner product, but I've had such great results with the Seafoam products that I'm staying with it. Besides using it on OB motors, I have literally "resurrected from death" a lawnmower, chain saw, weed whacker and a pressure washer. Each was alleged to be dead and I got them all for FREE .. and all were fixed using Seafoam. I even used it in my Ford Explorer when she was running rough and it cleaned it out really well!Texas Prowler said:Seafoam Deepcreep. Best I've ever used.
In those 'otherwise not running' motors mentioned above (stale gas left for months/years??) I drained all fuel and added the straight Seafoam and pulled the starter through, with the plug wires ground out. I let them sit for a day or two. The pressure washer I had to do twice. All were then drained and filled with fresh fuel, then started, tuned up, and all was well!
Note, if your carbs are running OK and you only intend to decarb the cylinders, you could save some time/trouble and use the Seafoam aerosol version, called "Deep Creep", and spray good long blasts from carb to carb, using 1/4 can, then do the 25-minute wait. Repeat, repeat if needed ... leaves you some on hand if/when needed to boot!
I don't like nor care for Yummieha's Ring Free product and have no faith in the "a little every fill up" philosophy. And here's an illustration of why. Take a baking plate with a big ol' pile of encrusted lasagna on it. Don't soak it ... just spray on a little washing detergent then rinse it. Did it come clean? Nope. Try it again - but don't sock it. Did it come clean? Nope ... and it NEVER will! Those "dose w/ every fill-up" products FAIL to remove encrusted crap.
That's why I prefer the shock treatment method every 50-hours and believe me, after starting and running and offshore boating forum for years where everyone was running 1 or 2 big V6 OBs on the back, I 've witnessed multiple times where people has issues with daily dosing of Ring Free that were finally cured by the shock treatment method of another product, even if not Seafoam.
FWIW here is the "Shock Treatment" method recommended by Bob Dunkleberger, a noted marine surveyor from NJ and an internet OB guru of some reknown:
Dunk's Decarb Procedure using SEafoam
"This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Optimax and even 4 strokes...First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3 gal red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier..
I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Merc Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that?? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 mins.
You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine. Use about 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a fuel plug on the little tanks hose.
Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she get loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 mins in the dock or just cruising around under 2500. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 mins. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 mins. If she smokes after the second time do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times. You don't need any wide open throttle, you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every 50-60hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines.
I cleaned a antique evinrude one time that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the mix through it. Seafoam has been around since the 30's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards.
You guys with the 4 strokes think you are immune from this? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they will carbon up. I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke.
Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2 stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne.
For those guys that like to do the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure. Says right on the can Oxygen Sensor Safe, for you Yam guys.
After that if your engine maunf recommends a daily additive treatment then do that in the mean time, but all 2-stroke outboards need a decarb every 50-60hrs. If I owned a 4-stroke I would do it the same. Once you are set up with the tank and hose the Seafoam is only 5-6 bucks [now $8-9] can. It's too easy not to do it."
Wow ... that is AWESOME info there Pappy - thanks!Pappy said:The process does not end when the carbon remover can is empty. All kinds of stuff is still coming off the heads and piston tops. Unfortunately some of it gets caught between the piston and sleeve. Most of the time it will go out the ports but small particles also imbed themselves in the piston skirts and increase the rate of cylinder wear for a long time. Extra oil will help keep this in suspension and flush it. If you were able to look at a piston skirt under a microscope (I have several times) you would be amazed what is stuck in there. Accelerated break-in procedures and carbon removal procedures top the lists for the damage.
Pappy said:No.
You can remove the fitting off the tank end of the hose and stick the hose in the mixture though.
I don't understand why you want to wait around to run 3/4 gallon of gas through your engine though.
Would be a Hell of a lot quicker to buy a can of Engine Tuner from a dealer and run it through then let it sit while you do something else.
To each his own I guess.
BigTerp said:I plan to disconnect my fuel line from my main tank, remove the fuel fitting off the tank end of the hose and stick that end of the hose into the mixture. Will it be able to pull the mixture through the hose and into my engine that way?
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