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Western14’

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I currently have the boat off the trailer and after a few days of looking at the horrible attempt at a paint job the po did, I find myself wanting to strip and repaint the trailer. Im looking for suggestions on a cheap paint to use. I started to strip the fenders with a polycarbide blade and plan on priming them with Rust-Oleum clean metal primer in a spray can. I plan on priming the whole trailer, after stripped, with this paint but am looking for suggestions for a top coat. Also pros and cons on spray cans vs rolled. Also has anyone tried Rust-Oleum’s rubber undercoating? I’ve read mixed reviews but was obviously planning on shooting the bottom of the fenders with it. Any insight would be great. Thanks in advance
 
While prep is the key to any painting, I prefer brush on paints to spray, for the final topcoat of something like this. I also just use the Rust-O oil-based enamel paints, usually silver on my boat trailers as I’m just painting the non-galvanized steel parts (springs, axle, hangers, etc.).

If an all steel trailer, prep well, as if the topcoat doesn’t adhere well it becomes a ‘layer’ that can chip off. Multiple thin coats preferred to one thick one. Hopefully someone else who has painted an entire all-steel trailer can chime in too on the paint used.
 
I used rustoleum rust metal primer and the matching paint I did it with a paint brush. It took a while but it looked like new. Prep is key . Paint job lasted long enough to sell .I used it for 6 years before I sold it.
I stripped the trailer to clean metal and in a few spots down to factory primer in others.
 
I like Rustoleum primers and paints.
I thin it per the instructions add hardener and brush it on.
 
Rustoleum it is then. Thanks for the suggestions. Any input between the two? I’m attracted to the one that’s clearly labeled to “stop rust”. Thanks in advance.
 

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I like the professional.
It doesn't come in that many colors compared to their regular version. If you want glossy black that's not an issue. Rustoleum regular has cans of base that can be tinted.
 
Thanks guys.I was the thinking semi gloss due to dents in the trailer, but that will be something to think about while I’m grinding away. Well that and fishing
 
If you're going to use Rustoleum, use a hardener. I sprayed it on my trailer, no hardener, it looks good but is not very durable. Scratches easily.

I had aspirations of wet blasting, but couldn't get it to work all that well, and just got after it with a knotted cup brush and a grinder. I did dry blast the nooks and crannies where the grinder wouldn't reach.
 
Thanks for heads up, I’ve seen a few people that say use a hardener. Any suggestions as to which brand?
 
Western14’ said:
Thanks for heads up, I’ve seen a few people that say use a hardener. Any suggestions as to which brand?

I believe TSC carries some that is for their line of equipment enamels. Might give those a try, I'm not convinced that there's a whole lot of difference between it and Rustoleum.
 
My local Blain's Farm and fleet carries it too. Valspar brand and it has a new formula much safer to use. With the old formula you need to wear a respirator I'm not sure if you still need the respirator. I don't know how well the new formula works.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
My local Blain's Farm and fleet carries it too. Valspar brand and it has a new formula much safer to use. With the old formula you need to wear a respirator I'm not sure if you still need the respirator. I don't know how well the new formula works.

I'd just get the good stuff and wear a respirator. You can buy a disposable one from Harbor Freight for $20, if you're going to spray it, anyway.

And yes, Tractor Supply.
 
I don't know if the old formula is still available.
I don't know if I would trust a cheap respirator. The 3M one I would buy if using the old formula and spraying it was $35.00 at farm and fleet. If brushing it on the $20 might be good.
 

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