16' V hull FINALLY DONE!....for now 3/17....see final POST.

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FYI dont know if its obvious in the plan but we will be removing the 2 middle benches and building the raised floors atop the 2 end benches.


please feel free to chime in with any input as this is all brand new to me.

(floor plan is not exact...just a rough idea. ...for example, I think the back platform may have to come forward another foot...and that will determine wether 1 or 2 seats in the middle is possible)

Thanks!
 
That's a great looking boat with a nice paint job! I look forward to seeing more pics as the mods come along. =D>
 
CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:
Nice job on the paint. What kind of paint did you use?


ummm....I used what the guy at the marine store handed me :p ...not at home at the moment so Im not sure.
Sorry.

As I said..this is all new to me lol
 
Nice boat and great paint job,

Im not to sure about your plan to remove both middle bench seats. I think you are going to have to add some bracing or other structural support to keep it from flexing too much in the middle.
 
I was concerned about lack of support also, but my machinist buddy looked under the benches and told me that from what he saw they didnt offer much support as they are, and so he feels they could be removed.
But from what you said and what I have read elsewhere here I will mention additional support again.
 
its not what they support under the benches, its the structural stability they add!
They keep the boat from "taco-ing", or flexing in & out under load & stress.
I havent seen to many 16' boats that comfortably fish 4, it will be tight.
 
Nice rig! As CarlF mentioned above, 4 in a 16' boat is tight. My 16 ft'er states 4 on the tag, but there's no way I'd try it. Two people plus gear is comfortable, leaving room to move.
 
I have had 3 on it numerous times with no spacial difficulties so far, was hoping that opening up some room miht allow for another small person =)

I think my wife has her heart set on it being built for 4 to accomidate future little ones. So maybee instead of 2 removeable seats, we could put in one of the back to back style seats.
 
You & the wife and two younguns would be fine, especially just motoring around/panfishing.
I was thinking 4 adults, which would definately be tight.
 
Agreed, you will have no problem with 2 adults or 2 kids. 3 adults is easy as well. 4 adults will be pushing it--if for nothing else its hard to find fishing space. If you take your storage that you have on that one side and narrow it down and put it on both sides you will have your side support back. The seats are holding your sides in place so they do not fold in or out. By boxing the sides with the side storage area you will get that support back. That is, assuming you are going to attach the side storage to both an attached floor and the sides. Look at how CrappieSlayer is doing his. He is boxing the sides and the support should be darn strong.
 
heres another question regarding the issue of support.

There have been several mods I have seen on this forum where all benches have been removed from v hull boats and the only support added being beneath the flooring with aluminum or wood. And yet on those builds I havent seen much concern over tacoing...

I am trying to understand this concern since we will be keeping 2 seats (maybee 3 if I decide to keep the second from front bench) and removing 1 to 2 while adding support under the flooring.
As I said I am new to this but I dont get the concern when it seems like our build will have more support with the remaining seats and the underfloor support as apposed to the builds with just the underfloor support....Not trying to be rude here ....just trying to learn.

And If at all feasible I want to avoid storage on both sides since the boat is only 5 feet wide and storage on both sides would make moving around VERY difficult and cramped.
 
Pretty new at all of this, but from the way I understand it, if you go by the plan you made one the first page I would think that the combination of the support along the floor and the storage area down the one side of the boat would eliminate any flexing. Again, I'm no pro, just my .02
 
CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:
Pretty new at all of this, but from the way I understand it, if you go by the plan you made one the first page I would think that the combination of the support along the floor and the storage area down the one side of the boat would eliminate any flexing. Again, I'm no pro, just my .02

On the side you do not want to build a storage section you have your rod holders.
https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/gabrionus/06300916391.jpg

If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle. Another build on here has a picture like that. It has a paddle stored behind the rod holders. I just don't recall where the pic is. That may be an idea to consider. Plus watch crappie_slayers build. He has one heck of a nice side storage build going on. =D>

The reason that you see different comments about adding support, not adding support, etc. is that we each have our own ideas and thoughts on if the boat needs support or not. I don't believe we have any structural engineers that have done studies, nor do we have any proof of a boat actually tacoing. For myself, I would rather caution on the side of adding more support then needed. It would be terrible to do all the work only to scrap out your hull first time you need to get off a lake with rollers and whitecaps.

In the end we each need to decide how to customize and build the structure for our rigs, what materials to use, how much support, how thick, etc. etc. etc. This forum is great for seeing the trailblazer ahead of us. The final decision, however, is own ourselves.

I was going to build side storage all the way down the side of my rig. I then decided to build sides as narrow as possible (as narrow as I thought would give the support I wanted) and put them on both sides. I decided to fill these voids with foam instead of storage as well. The more I thought on it, narrow foam filled sides would give me support and floatation and I decided that was of more value then a wider run of storage on one side. I have other plans for storage that will be revealed as I build my rig and I am pretty sure I have figured out the best build for my rig and my goals.
 
"In the end we each need to decide how to customize and build the structure for our rigs, what materials to use, how much support, how thick, etc. etc. etc. This forum is great for seeing the trailblazer ahead of us. The final decision, however, is own ourselves."



Well said!
 
If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle


Thats a great Idea. plus the additional length of the bar with the rod holders (if im understanding you correctly) will give room for more rods to be held. (there is nothing that bugs me more than a bunch of rods all over the place while im trying to fish lol...and I bring ALOT of rods)

When doing this though...do the bars need to be at a certain angle? As in will they need to be at a 45...and thus be in the middle of the floor space? (and tripped over) or can they be at a sharper angle where they connect with the floor support and still offer enough support?

Thanks a bunch!
 
bassnbrian said:
If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle


Thats a great Idea. plus the additional length of the bar with the rod holders (if im understanding you correctly) will give room for more rods to be held. (there is nothing that bugs me more than a bunch of rods all over the place while im trying to fish lol...and I bring ALOT of rods)

When doing this though...do the bars need to be at a certain angle? As in will they need to be at a 45...and thus be in the middle of the floor space? (and tripped over) or can they be at a sharper angle where they connect with the floor support and still offer enough support?

Thanks a bunch!

here you go. It was bugging me that I couldn't find the picture so I went and found it. Notice how it is tying the side into the floor cross support? If you do that you should improve the support quite a bit.

file.php

file.php


Here is the build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6902

When i doubt, I say spend more time on this site :lol:
 
Tacoing {image of boat folding in half while underway} is a bit of a misnomer as well as, we tend to describe things in extremes. What usually happens when you remove the lateral support is "localized repetitive flexing" IOW you have a very small area that is prone to intense, repetitive flexing that will eventually lead to metal fatigue and failure. Riveted hulls are designed to flex, but the flex is engineered to be over a much larger area which keeps it from being either repetitive or localized. The two most common failures I have seen from side panel flexing are:
1) A crease or crack forms in the bottom of the hull in one of the lateral ribs very close to the longitudinal center line of the hull
2) A crease or crack forms in the bottom of the hull in one of the lateral ribs very close to the chine, usually accompanied by one on the opposite side.

I think these two stress fractures have different causes, but are both as a result of side panel flexing. In the first instance i think it is a trailering issue mostly and in the second caused when underway in heavy to moderate chop.

An easy way to check is to establish a baseline before you remove anything structural. I have used an old pull scale and ratchet straps to figure it out. Measure the beam at the sheer line of your hull, attach the scale and ratchet strap across the beam, tighten the strap until you have 10 pounds of pull on the scale, then measure the beam again. This will give you an amount of deflection for an amount of compression. Then you can design a brace system that will allow you the same results or, if you want to, go to a higher amount of deflection or compression.

For example, you have 2 inches of deflection for 10 pounds of compression. But, after you have removed the seats you can easily tell that maybe 4 inches at 10 pounds will be okay, then you can design to that. At least you have something to go back to if it all falls apart (not literally) or you want to change a design element.
 

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