Vermonster's 1972 RichLine Sportsman 14' V

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Vermonster

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Joined
Mar 4, 2012
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Location
Smyrna, GA
Late last summer after trolling Craigslist for months, I purchased my first tin. I used to hijack my dad's whenever I wanted but since he was 1100 miles away now - that's not going to work. After extensive searching and research, I've figured out that it is likely a '68 or '69 (edit: it's a 1972) RichLine Sportsman. I had no idea what it was to begin with. There was a badge on the transom with a serial number, but searching for it brought up nothing. There also wasn't a manufacturer name on the badge or anywhere on the boat. After finding the RichLine Yahoo group and going through all of their old brochures I found it.

I paid $800 for the following:
14 ' V hull Boat
Trailer - needed new wiring, lights and tires ($120 to fix up)
1979 15 HP Evinrude (runs great - only added new gas line and priming bulb $20 fix)
6 Gallon OMC Gas Tank
2 Mushroom Anchors (1 with 100' of new rope)
Paddle
Anchormate winch for front anchor
25# thrust transom mount Shakespeare Trolling Motor (old but works great 5 speeds reverse and forward)
1 Drift Sock
1 life jacket
2 bait casting rod/reels (I prefer spinning rod/reel).
1 Spongebob rod/reel

I was happy with the price... boat/motor/trailer/trollingmotor... $800


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The rails had 2 layers of flaky paint on it that I sanded off. I like the bare aluminum

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I pulled the transom out. It had some dry rot and was swollen. It was fairly flexible with the motor on, so I decided to replace it.

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Transom Replacement:
2 sheets 3/4 inch plywood glued together (I used old transom as template).
4 coats spar urethane (I also add another coat each time I spar a deck or seat).
All hardware is stainless steel with 3M 5200 (nylock nuts).
Replaced corner brackets with aluminum angle riveted to side (rivets coated in 5200).

Transom is SOLID - no flex with motor on. I also got over my fear of putting holes in the boat!

During the same time I added a carpeted floor and bench with seat.

Floor: 1/2 inch plywood. 3 coats spar urethane.
Bench: 3/4 inch plywood (left over from transom). 3 coats spar urethane.
Seat: 1 1/2 inch riser with Swivel-ease mount bolted through entire bench.
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Next up - front seat and floor...
 

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Picked up some aluminum angle, tube, and channel to extend the front seat. I added 2 holes above the waterline (or about at it). I riveted a strip of channel on each side so that the sharp corners of the angle didn't dig into the hull when weight was put on the seat. I sealed it with 3M 5200 anyways... better safe than sorry.

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I can stand on the middle tube (200 lbs) and it has a tiny bit of flex. I added 2 more supports and capped the top with 1 1/2" angle

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Waiting for the 5200 to cure now, and I'm 1 coat of Spar Urethane in on the 1/2" plywood to be added on top of this (with carpet). I'll be purchasing a new jigsaw as well since mine decided to literally fall apart. The angle is easy enough to cut with a hacksaw, but I'll need it for the plywood.

I think I'm going to add foam in the very front of the bow and use the rest of the space to store life jackets since I seem to forget them half of the time.
 
I think I'm going to add foam in the very front of the bow and use the rest of the space to store life jackets since I seem to forget them half of the time.

X2. It would also be a great spot for an anchor locker, though I haven't hatched the perfect plan yet lol
 
Thanks guys! It's expensive working with the aluminum, but man is it fun!

I've got 3 coats of spar urethane on the 1/2 inch ply for the deck. I've still got to cut it to shape as I just picked up my replacement jigsaw the other day. No rush though I'm still on back order for Henry 263 carpet adhesive. I can use something else, but I like the fact that it's waterproof since the boat will be stored outside (covered but still outside). Fingers crossed that it comes in this week or next.

I was already looking at picking up another tin at a government auction (https://www.govdeals.com), but decided that the wife probably wouldn't like 2 boats in the carport. It was a 12 footer, but I thought if I could get it cheap I could flip it and make a little cash. I think I'll wait and let the next boat purchase be a 16' or 18'.
 
Small update....
Here's the original badge/plate from the transom:
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14 HP max (I have a 15HP Evinrude on it which is why the badge isn't on it)
3 people or 600lbs max with gear.

Also got the replacement jigsaw and finally cut the front deck. I measured the length first and marked it on the frame and then measured the width every 2 inches near the bow, and then every 3 inches as I worked closer to the stern. It's 44 inches long total. I just need to spar urethane the edges and lay the carpet down. A local carpet supply company was kind enough to put an order for Henry's 263 on backorder for me and a gallon came in the other day so we're in business.

Here's the deck laying on the frame:
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More pics to follow, but I haven't decided on a front seat mount yet. If I go with a pedestal base, I'll need to have it off center because of the center support in the frame, or I can cut that piece of the framing and frame out a square that the base can be screwed into. I'm open to suggestions of that if you've got some. I haven't rulled out just adding a block to the top of the deck and having the seat base recessed into that versus the deck.
 
You are riveting all of the alluminum peices together right? Im trying to figure out the best way to do it.



Its looking good so far! =D>
 
Yep. All the aluminum is riveted together and to the hull on the sides, the front seat, and the rib on the floor. It's solid (more so than the rest of the seats that were original likely).
 
Well I ventured up to Basspro today to pick up the remaining pieces that were missing from the front deck:
Seat base
Adjustable Seat Pole (hydraulic)
Seat (went with a Tempress since they were on sale)

I had to move the supports to put the base in for the seat in order to have it centered. Thankfully rivets come out just as easy as they go in.
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Added the carpet to the deck. The hole for the mount is there, I just haven't cut the carpet from it yet.
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I also got a new base for the back seat. The screws in the seat were hitting the nuts from the base. I'm swapping the small pedestal for a real base and seat mount. It will sit up a bit higher, but at least I'll be able to actually spin in the boat.
 
So I've been thinking that the "Magic" date for HIN numbers was 71... I just found out that it was actually November of 1972. Looking at the first 2 digits of the serial in the picture of the plate that I posted earlier it begins with a 72.

I just went back and looked at the Richline group and checked out the brochures - they actually made the Sportsman model in 1972 as well. It's a 1972!!!
 
Just a few :)

I've been taking pics all along the way. I'm just finishing up the middle bench today. I hit it with the last coat of spar urethane before I left for work.

Added pedestal for the front seat and the tempress all weather seat:
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I also wanted to try out Driftmaster rod holders. I got the V-Rail Round bases for the ('lil pro), and the Flatliner rod holders. I ended up riveting them to the rail instead of drilling all the way through my rail and having them off-set. It's sturdy, and they don't interfere with my Anchormate set up.
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I'm going to likely pick up another Wally-World seat like this one for folks to sit in while motoring/underway. It sits low enough so the passenger can rest their feet on the floor.
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And finally my little guy wanted to get into the boat the other day. Hopefully he'll keep that kind of attitude for a long time!

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Looking great! She's really coming together nicely! Couple questions when you have a sec...what kind of bolts (or other fastener) did you use to attach the deck to the aluminum frame? And did you treat both sides of the wood with urethane, or just the top?
 
SpyGuy23 said:
Looking great! She's really coming together nicely! Couple questions when you have a sec...what kind of bolts (or other fastener) did you use to attach the deck to the aluminum frame? And did you treat both sides of the wood with urethane, or just the top?

Thanks Spyguy!

For the front deck, I actually drilled through the aluminum strip that the seat base is setting. I actually ended up moving the back strip to make sure the bolts went right through the center of it. Those strips are riveted to the framing. All bolts, nuts, and washers are stainless steel.
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The back bench I attached directly to the boat with 90 degree angle brackets. It's screwed into the 3/4 inch Ply and riveted through the hull (above the waterline but still coated with 3M 5200). One set is tied in with my fire extinguisher mount, and the other is on it's own. Pics below.
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The middle bench I just finished tonight and used 90 degree angle brackets as well, but it's actually riveted to the aluminum seat and screwed to the 1/2 inch ply and a bit through the original aluminum bench. Below is a picture of where it would end up after I finished it:
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For treating the wood I usually did 3-4 coats of spar urethane on the top and 2 on the bottom. I'll lose the luxury of the carport/garage pretty soon so more protection for me the better. For the floor - I actually did 4 coats top and bottom (just in case).

For extra waterproofing - I opted for Henry's 263 carpet adhesive which is waterproof itself. The carpet will eventually go, but the wood should at least last the life of the carpet.
 
Thanks for the detailed response, that's a BIG help! I like your idea at the front deck, definitely going to use that. Those holes need to be drilled anyway, may as well serve 2 purposes. Nice work!
 
rickybobbybend said:
Hey, Vermonster, comin' along very nicely.
DId you decide to use any of the space under the front deck for storage or flotation?

I did. You can't see it but my 3 life jackets, landing net, and small paddle are all under there. I can reach them all from under the seat so I don't have to fool with hatches (until the next boat). :)
 
I've been slacking a bit. My Dad had a motorcycle radio and didn't like it. He sent it down and I installed it. It really didn't fit anywhere, so I have it installed right now under the bow cap. I also ran wires and conduit from the first floor break in the bow to the stern to help with weight balance when I'm fishing solo.

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Speakers and radio up front under the bow cap.

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Conduit hiding the wiring run through the side holes of the seat and adjacent to the flooring.

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Terminals in the back.

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Close up of the radio. It can take an IPOD/Iphone through a cable, SD Card, or USB Flash Drive. Dad's trash is the son's treasure! :)

The 1979 Evinrude overheated on me at the end of the summer. The culprit was a bad thermostat. I really haven't had it out since then. Looking forward to getting out this spring.
 

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