My Basket Case ( 12' V Hull Restoration/ Conversion)

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thought the sanding would never end, Sealed Outside bottom with 2 coats Gulvit and primed; Also covered all the holes along the top with fiberglass tape reinforced Marine Tex (both white and grey).
574925_311214102312951_1915353343_n.jpg

33865_311214118979616_100651471_n.jpg

543944_311214115646283_463558651_n.jpg

537846_311214122312949_71777044_n.jpg

33865_311214142312947_1725440490_n.jpg

6641_311214138979614_2095218655_n.jpg

268456_311214158979612_1056214258_n.jpg

65123_311214165646278_813838506_n.jpg

430793_311214168979611_737643425_n.jpg

423635_311214178979610_998456305_n.jpg
 
Sand couple spots, cut off transom brace, clean up be hind it and install a stainless steel drain plug, reseal transom with 5200; build and install new transom brace lower and upper; Cut off old bench seat brackets; wash it down; 2 coats Gluvit inside and top of outside. Take it to the lake and see if she leaks. If she doesn't I will start installing aluminum bracing for the floor ( 1.25" square tubing ). Picked up a 6" cut off saw at Harbor Freight for 40 bucks ( saves me from having to rent one and rushing to use it and get it back and all that BS ). Not sure of what all I'm going to do to it, but I'm going to keep it pretty basic b/c I don't think the max load on this boat is to high and I'm 250 lbs, another 50 for the motor, then there is gas tank trolling motor battery ( will go up front ) bait/bait well ( not doing a fish live well ) and the girl friend. will be laying the tubing directly on the stringers start at the second one from the rear and runing them parallel atop of them to about where the second bend crease is attaching with 1/4 x 1/2 aluminum rivets as It gets toward the Front stringer it will be 4" to 6" ( or maybe more ) off the center I' be running A 1 1/2 channel down the inside of the keel line riveted to each stringer and extending past the last one to place my center supports in to and support front decking/ battery, anchor locker.
 
Nice I had this very boat with a 15hp that I upped to an 18hp Johnson in high school, she ran around 28-32mph with me alone and 25-28 with someone in the boat. Not too shabby for a 12ft boat. Word to the wise whatever motor you put on it, dolphin fins helped it plane out big time.
 
Thanks guys. The goal is to at least get it painted before I have to move the 1st of Feb, because it will be spending it's time outside for a while.
 
Comin along man, any new pics? Good luck with the move, I know it's gonna kill ya to leave the old Indian River behind!
 
Local move just apartment has gotten so expensive that I can rent a house cheaper, plus have a grill. Man I miss a BBQ grill (7yrs), plus work on the boat and car in my driveway. No new pictures been going slow; Will Marine Tex transom holes today and then will have to work for next 3; have Sun and mon off will sand the Tex and hopefully get a coat of Gluvit on the inside. Been pricing out aluminum for floor; going to run 140 to 160 bucks and that's without any front decking or rear bench or the wood, carpet fasteners, glue and every other **** thing! Oh well, knew I could get another boat inbetter condition cheaper before I started! LOL #-o
 
I am also in the Orlando area. I have a boat just like that. I have a question tho. Does the point where the bow V -guard or plate meets the center keel have to be sealed where they meet or did you do that to try and keep water out of there because of other leaks? The one i have is not sealed there and looks to be made that way by the manufacturer. The outer ones on either side of the center keel are also not sealed in the rear.
 
Nice job so far. Sanding and cleaning is always the funnest part. :LOL2: Just get those welds done and then you will be able to start on the fun parts! Good luck!
 
Living with my sister till the 4th of March. Did get the boat Gluvited on the inside and primed. It's at Cousins gettng the trailor worked on. He extended the tungue 3 ft, welded a couple L risers in the back and mounted the lights on them so thieir not in the water and more visable on the road, also redid the bunks and welded my Harbor fraught jack to the front and a post,bow stop and winch. One of the bearings was shot and he's replacing that and putting on bearing buddies.
Once I get moved I will start work on the floor framing, man I have been racking my brain about it, but I guess I'll just have to get some aluminium channel, and tubing and dive in (slowly). Think I'm just going to pait it Grey.


Not sure what your question is about my bow to keel plating. I did a fiberglass covering and gluited over it because it had a leak in the bow. I found the leak when I ground down the inside and it's covered with 5200 and afew coats of Gluvit. I believe I'm also going to spray the bottom of the inside with truck bed liner up to the side rivet line and then paint over that after I get the floor framing in. No welding was done on this boat. all repairs are with stainless bolts and aluminium channel/plating.
 
On the bottom. Right where the bow nose guard meets the bottom of the boat there is a raided rail there that runs from front to back and on mine i also have one on each side of the center one. In one of you pics it looks like you sealed it up. But if you had a leak that would explain why you sealed it up. I was only asking because mine are not sealed off on the front and back of the rail so water actually could run through it and I didnt know if that was supposed to be that way.

Mine had a cut in the bow nose guard where someone had taken it out of the back of a truck and just let it slam down on the concrete. Nothing a little JB Stik couldnt fix. I also painted over the Nose guard with bed liner just for that added bit of protection against further damage.
 
Ya, I was initally going to fiberglass mesh all the seams with G Fex but then only did the bow and a couple areas I knew were leaking. The start of those keel runner things were covered to start with because I was going to double up on the front of them. Don'task mewhy, I have no idea. My bow had a leak so I double meshed the nose of the boat with mesh and G Flex ( works really good could disk sand it down like bondo and mesh; It woudserve as a base in which th use fiberglass if one ever needed to.) Flound the leak when stripped all the paintand caulk from the inside. There was a inch long by 1/8 inch slit in the bow bottom, there was metel under it, but evedently it was still leaking; so Ipainted it wit 5200 let it sett a couple days the put 3 coats of Gluvit over that. I am still going to spray the bottom inside with bed liner. May be over kill, but this boat will see it's fair share of salt water.
 
I figured it was sealed due to it leaking. Mine had a cut about 4 inches long about 6 inches up from where the bow nose gaurd meets the keel runner on the bottom and i used some JB Stik on it which took care of the leak. I did also remove the old caulk from the inside and resealed it with 5200. I plan on sprying bed liner over that as well but used up the last can i had spraying my new transom board before i installed it. What size motor are you planning on putting on? I have almost completely rebuilt my Grandpa's 1955 Evinrude 7.5 Fleetwin Aquasonic and with just me on the boat i have to sit on the middle bench and use my foot to hold the tiller in order for it to completely plane off. Im hoping the addition of trim tabs and a front deck might help that situation. Its a strong little motor and the compression is well within dealer specs for that motor just doesnt want to push over the hump so to say when tryin to plane off. Once i got it planed off sitting on the middle bench it was doing 12.3 mph and i have one of those walk/jogging satelite tracker apps on my phone to prove it.
 
Oh and have you seen the Clermont Chain's Ramps? I know you are moving out here and are somewhat close but didnt know if you have ever been to any of the ramps here. If not i can show you where they are. The one on the south side of Lake Minneola is a fairly new ramp but Ive only just recently used it (starting 2 weeks ago actually) and to be honest its a nice ramp but the idiots who designed it didnt leave anywhere for you to tie a boat off when you launch or load. there two cleats at the end of the dock but the water being down so low you cant really tie to them. I just walk my boat off and pull it about 15ft to the side and beach it when im alone so i can park the truck. the other ramp is off Hull Rd and its not in very good condition. Our water levels here in Lake county are the highest they have been in years thanks to last summers rains and its still about 3ft low from the average lake level. So with the water having gotten that low the ramp at Hull rd got so dry you actually had to back your vehicle onto dried up canal bottom to get the trailer deep enough to float a boat and then you couldnt get out of the canal on either end to get into the lakes cus there were spots on the canal that were dry completely from shore to shore.
 
No, haven't been to any of the ramps or any of the lakes for that matter..dried up connection canals sure sucks though. Plan on using mine in the intra-coatalal mostly; will prob do a little fresh water fishing though. Boat came with a 15 Hp Sea Horse ( I think) anyway it was made by Chysler 1975 from what I can tell: ran when I bought it, but I haven't run it since December with the moving and all. In storage right now. Moving into my place March 4, at sisters in Winter Haven now.
 
Where are some pics of the work you had done man? I'm thinking of lengthening the trailer tongue on mine too by 3' or so, mostly to make it so my truck doesn't have to be in the lake or river to launch my boat.
 
Well the connection canals are mostly back up to a level they can be traveled thru even on your heavier ski and pleasure boats now. The water level is higher now than it was last time i used the Hull rd ramp and we still made it out to the lakes on a ski boat then. We hit bottom once and i was on the bow and it thru me into the canal which was about knee deep where i went in lol but managed to keep my beer in my hand so it was all ok. haha.
 
In my place now, boxes still need unpacking and I won't even talk about the crap in the garage. Drove out to Sanford today to ACME Building Sulpply and bought a mess of aluminium to frame the floor; cost me 80 bucks which is 1/2 of what the retail aluminium place in Orlando wanted for smaller stock; then drove to Oveito to visit my boat and and cousin. picked up a couple wheel bearings and Bearing Buddys from Tractor supply and installed one new bearing (only one was bad, will get to other one later) and the buddies. Sill need to mount bunks and rollers and rewire the lights on the trailer, but at least I did something. Drove 50 miles back home.........without my boat and trailer :(
 

Latest posts

Top