YJs 1236 Semi V Mod

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You didn't happen to notice any burs or similar on the crank shaft threads? Willl the nut go on at all?

You might consider running a small needle file along the threads and following that checking if the nut will work - cheaper than a die.
 
BoatDawg4120 said:
Be careful what types of sprays you are using to test fire any engine. Especially a 2-stroke. Most starting fluids and cleaners are not oil based and therefore can cause cylinder wall and ring scoring due to insufficient lubrication. Even just a quick test fire can cause issues. Best thing to do to test run a 2-stroke is to put some gas/oil premix into a spray bottle and use that.
Thanks for the tip. I appreciate it. I did try with carb cleaner today and it actually fired for just a second. Thanks again.
 
SumDumGuy said:
You didn't happen to notice any burs or similar on the crank shaft threads? Willl the nut go on at all?

You might consider running a small needle file along the threads and following that checking if the nut will work - cheaper than a die.
I couldn't see anything wrong until I took a photo that I could zoom in on and a file did the trick. The nut went on easily and the motor is now back together and waiting on some gas.
My only delima with it right now is finding the correct fuel/oil mixture for It. So far the closest manual I've found is one model number down from the actual. It says 24:1 but I want to make sure that would be correct.
 
24:1 is probably about right. I know on my old 1955 Rude I had it was originally 16:1 but with the development of TCWIII they released a publication to switch to 24:1 unless you were still using 30w as your primary 2-stroke oil. I always mixed mine a little heavy on the oil still just for the added piece of mind. I was fine with the idea of replacing plugs a little sooner rather than damage cylinder, pistons, rings, cranks, bearings, etc.
 
BoatDawg4120 said:
24:1 is probably about right. I know on my old 1955 Rude I had it was originally 16:1 but with the development of TCWIII they released a publication to switch to 24:1 unless you were still using 30w as your primary 2-stroke oil. I always mixed mine a little heavy on the oil still just for the added piece of mind. I was fine with the idea of replacing plugs a little sooner rather than damage cylinder, pistons, rings, cranks, bearings, etc.
Right on. Thanks so much. I appreciate your input.
 
I keep feeling like I'm not making any progress but I know that little by little this old goat is doing something. Especially since I'm out the every day working on it.
The past couple days I've made new transom corner braces and a new bow top brace. Tomorrow I hope to have those all riveted in place.
Today I also got new SS U-bolts in place on the transom for tie-downs to the trailer. (Pic to follow)
Also as soon as I can come up with a 1 3/8" hole saw I'll be able to get the Aft anchor pole light mount installed.
That wouldn't fit on the old beat up corner brackets, so... in come the new bigger ones I made from an old aluminum street sign. (Along with the new bow brace).
(Sure wish I had A bending brake though).

I hate having to live off of a disability pension, but the up side is I have somthing to do that I love doing. I just have to wait longer for the $$$ to come in and scrounge more :) little by little this boat is getting there. Pushing hard to be fishing in her by spring.
 

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If you haven't found out what the boat is yet, I have a boat almost identical as far as I can tell and mine is a late 60's or early 70's sea nymph. I can find the exact model tomorrow as it's written on the side, I just can't recall lol.

I love the build.
 
Right on. I've suspected a sears but not positive,early 60,s or so. One of the things I've been going by is the length of the splash guard on the sides. Not to many of them that short. I would appreciate what you come up with. Thank you.
 
I guess it's time for a little update.
I made new corner plates on the transom and got the pole light plug-in base installed on one of them. Then I reworked the bow brace plate. I started to make a new one then I got to thinking. Usually a bad idea for me. I straightened the original out as best I could with a piece of 2x4 and a hammer. Then I broke out some Bondo with glass strands in it and coated the top of the plate to fill in any of the dents and dimpples that were left. Let that cure till the next day then sanded it smooth. Cleaned it with mineral spirits then sprayed self etching primer to it. Then temp mounted the Nav light right up front.

Then last payday I picked up a couple of steel 55 gal drums. Got me another piece of 2x4 and near one end I drove a nail thru it. Measured 9 inches from that nail and drove another nail thru. I then flipped one of the drums upside down then took my 9" nail ruler and hung it on the lip of the drum and walked around it letting the other nail scratch a line around the drum. Yep... got me a line to follow with my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. Laid the drum on its side and just rolled it while I cut. Next, I cut that part right up the middle.
Have any of you priced new fenders for a trailer? Tractor Supply had flimsy plastic ones for $40.00 ea.
I just made two for a grand total of $10.00. :p :wink:
BTW they are a perfect fit for 12" tires. Got them screwed onto the trailer frame today. Took the trailer to a salvage yard and got them to weigh it for me. 240 lbs total for the completed trailer.

Some New pics coming right up. And as always, your comments, thoughts and ideas are always welcome.
 

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Here's a couple of the newer photo's

Also a question about the plywood I'm thinking of using for the floor.
The boat is 12' bow to stern, 36" wide across the bottom and 48" across the widest part at the top. I picked up an old aluminum ladder to run down the center to support the floor plywood. Trying to keep the weight down a bit do you think that 3/8" thick exterior ply would be sufficient? At most there will be two of us but more often than not, I'll be alone with my taco dog and gear. BTW the pink foam will be below the ladder between the ribs.
I'd appreciate any input ya'll might be able to give. Thanks in advance.
 

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Thank you very much. Yesterday I went to a furnature store and they gave me all the card board boxes I wanted. Then today I started on making the template for the flat floor. Progress may be slow, but progress none the less. Woot.
 
Here are some pics of the cardboard mockup with the floor and fore and aft decks.
There will be one hatch up front for battery access, the anchor and rope.
There will be one long hatch across the very back for the bilge pump and spare fuel, and storage of the aft pole light.
Also on the aft deck will be two hatches for the PFD's, tools, tackle, first aid kit and what ever else needs to be stoad away.
I did another leak test today and found that automotive undercoating does NOT make for Decent hull sealer below the floor line.
Now... A ?? or two... All of the rivets that I've gotten ahold of leave the hole in the middle. What kind of rivets should I get that do not leave that hole? 2nd... What would be the best bet for sealing the hull from the inside and outside?
I really would appreciate anyone's input and thoughts on my floor and deck layout. I've tried to keep it all relatively low down and yet, functional. This entire build is a learning thing for me since it is my 1st build.
Thanks in advance for everyones help.
 

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Guess I should add an update to the current status (photo's included) :shock: Didn't realize it had been so long..
Ok. I've picked up the Pink Foam for under floor flotation, and also 1/2" Exterior Ply Wood for the floor and decking. Also picked up a can of Water Resistant Spray Adhesive to glue the foam down to the curvature of the bottom of the boat. My templates are made as mentioned earlier. Got the foam measured and cut, Finished priming the inside of the boat, and now have the boat off the trailer, upside down and working on the bottom and priming as I work my way back. Got a small crack fixed with JB-Weld and a couple of dents filled in with Steel Epoxy Putty. All on the Keel. Tomorrow will finish up on the Keel dents and a couple inches of worn away area, (leaving a hole) at the very back of the Keel, then spray the rubberized sealant on the rivets all the way down, let that cure a while and primer the rest of the bottom.
Woooooot, Making some progress.

Here are some pics to bring you up to date so far:
 

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True, so true. I got most all of the stuff on the bottom done today except for the last quarter to be primed. I got so ticked off, 3 brand new cans of Self Etching Primer and none of them will spray. I tried sticking a pin in the holes to no avail. Guess I got to track down my receipt and see if Home Depot will replace them.
And I was so looking forward to starting on the floor this afternoon. GRRRR
Been considering different ways for the plywood to be secure, yet easily removable if the need should arise for some reason. I'll find a way for that, yet. :)
Thanks for stopping by and your encouragement.
 
OK.. Got the bottom done and Primed today then painted 1st coat of the upper exterior where it would be hard to get to with the boat right side up. Then got my buddy to help me pick it up and flip it over and sat down on the trailer where I then finished the rest of the upper exterior 1st coat.
Tomorrow I'll give it a light sanding, clean it with the mineral spirits then put on the 2nd coat. After that's had a chance to sit for a while I'll put my floor template in and double check that before I cut the plywood. Woooot.. Suddenly feels like I'm making some progress..
Question for your thoughts. Currently the red paint follows the rivet line which will be masked for the bottom paint when I get that next pay day. The question is this. Do you think I should bring the red paint down on the front half of the boat in keeping with the same height that it is about mid ship rather than getting narrower at the bow? Just a thought I was considering but wanted to get your thoughts on it. Thanks for all your input so far, folks..
 

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