Yamaha Jet pump all-stainless wear ring assembly

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ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.
 
amk said:
ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.

You laugh, but a friend "helped" carry the rear of one of my skis with me to the water. I noticed it didn't seem right and found he had carried his end by the steering nozzle and had broken it :( I would SERIOUSLY add something very substantial to mount the pump mounts (front and rear) to. The long 6mm bolts are ONLY for holding the pump sections together. I would personally also make a ride plate under the entite pump that's an inch or two longer than the steering nozzle. A hard hit to the pump could knock the whole thing off and since the driveshaft is only connected to the motor with splines all you'd have to avoid losing that new pump would be your cables and cooling lines. Slightly off this, does the Solas pump have a 75mm hub? The OEM stator section has a 60 mm hub. The larger hub on the Skat C-75 mag pumps further helps the pump trade pressure for velocity.

Charles
 
bellman said:
amk said:
ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.

You laugh, but a friend "helped" carry the rear of one of my skis with me to the water. I noticed it didn't seem right and found he had carried his end by the steering nozzle and had broken it :( I would SERIOUSLY add something very substantial to mount the pump mounts (front and rear) to. The long 6mm bolts are ONLY for holding the pump sections together. I would personally also make a ride plate under the entite pump that's an inch or two longer than the steering nozzle. A hard hit to the pump could knock the whole thing off and since the driveshaft is only connected to the motor with splines all you'd have to avoid losing that new pump would be your cables and cooling lines.

:shock: :shock: I guess that's another good reason for having the support brackets on the thrust nozzle, as well as the wear ring. Like you said, those long 6mm bolts aren't very strong, in fact, often times, they snap when the threads seize up in the pump intake assembly.

I agree with the ride plate idea, as well. I did that with my boat, made it from 1/4" aluminum plate. Also added extended side plates that bolt to the existing tunnel. This, combined with the platform, gives all-around protection to the pump from log strikes, or, if I ever get brave enough to go farther inland toward the fall line....rock strikes.
 
I've been thinking of adding a support maybe just angle welded at a forty five to bolt to the pump and bolted to the transom so I can remove to seal the pump when I take it on and off. I've got a few weeks anyway since I had a rod bearing eat it.
 
amk said:
I've been thinking of adding a support maybe just angle welded at a forty five to bolt to the pump and bolted to the transom so I can remove to seal the pump when I take it on and off. I've got a few weeks anyway since I had a rod bearing eat it.


I made my ride plate out 1/4" aluminum plate also. I used 1/4" plate because the cast stock ride plate is brittle. It's pretty common on standup skis to bump the bottom of the ski and lots of people crack stock plates even on sand bottom surf riding. I bowfish below dams on rivers with a lot of whitewater with rocks everywhere. I've found myself floating backwards into very shallow water and hitting rocks, especially with a fish on. If I hit pump first, I know it'll be toast. That's why I made my plate extend about 2 inches past the pump. Also, an inch of hard rubber is sandwiched between the rideplate and the pump cavity so it will be a little resilient and absorb some of the impact. The last inch or so is bent very slightly upward so with a little luck, it'll hopefully sort of plane over a rock instead of coming to a dead stop.

Charles
 
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