Front Deck Build

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
pbw said:
I really don't know what kind of plywood to use. I went last night thinking I would get 5/8 plywood but I've never paid any attention to all the types of plywood.

I would use OSB board but some things scare me from it...
Don't use OSB.
There are 2 major grades of ply, that can be found at lowes/home depot. First is sheathing. It often has a mediocre ply on one side, and knotty ole things on the other. It is the cheapest, and is mostly used for sheathing, and subfloors on houses. Occasionally, you can find a pallet of this stuff that has a great ply on one side, and a fairly good one on the other. Sometimes the trees they cut it from don't have many knots, but since it hasn't been gone over with a machine to fix it, they still sell it as sheating.
The next is furniture grade (not sure of the actual name) It has footballs in all the voids on the outside plys. It is probably what you want. It is a little pricier, but worth it.

Now, HD/lowes also carry plys with a veneer of a hard wood on them. They are for making furniture with, where you want the wood finish, but don't want to use the real wood, and can't stand that vinyl wood on the MDF, and LDF that much of the cheap furniture is made from. You don't need this, as it is just extra money for something that will be covered by carpet. Now, there is also Birch ply, which is better for certain things, especially when spar varnish will be used, but you don't want that either, as it is rather pricey.

From what I remember, the furniture grade is only in 1/2 and 3/4. (it is in more, but we are looking at a range from 1/2 to 3/4). The sheathing is available in 5/8 as well. You could do just fine with 1/2, especially seeing how close your structure is. Unless you find a great batch of sheathing, you should stick with the furniture grade 1/2 and a good coat of water sealer.
 
I know osb isn't the best option but it does have advantages, but if water get to it, its over johnny!

Ah First I need to finish the framing. Then see how much wood I need for the deck. Unsure what size I hope I can get by with 1/2 inch. I may buy osb or thick card board to make a template with first. I don't want to destroy a nice piece of plywood with my bad jig saw skills.
 
Also I need some help/thoughts! How to support the plywood that will run over to the edges of the boat.

I've got a couple in my head just looking for some different concepts.
 
I'm at work right now (on our infamous 30 minute lunch break), but when I get home, and nothing overrides my time, tonight I'll try to generate a drawing of an idea I have and send it to you.
 
pbw, you may not have to add support to the edges of your deck, depending on how ya support it all. if you run stringers down the length of the deck and get some 3/4" plywood it may support weight on the edges. you could cut the decking material to fit then puzzle piece it together and get a feel for how strong it is. I have a gap on my deck between the last stringer and the edge and does fine, and I'm a big ole boy..280'ish...
 
Progress updated! Finishing up framing, just two more stud/supports on starboard side remaining.

normal_DSC_00041588resize.JPG


normal_DSC_00021586resize.JPG


normal_DSC_00061590resize.JPG


Below is how I'm connecting to the front studs to the boat, need to buy a couple more brackets.


normal_DSC_00051589resize.JPG
 
Waterwings said:
Lookin' good! :) . Are you going to seal all of the wood bracing before you put the deck down, especially any plywood edges that would soak-up water fairly quick?

Yes sir! I've been hitting the ends of the boards with some water sealer before installing them. Once I finished the supports I'll give them two coats of sealer.
 
If it were mine, and I were exactly where you are, using your design for the framing, here is what I would do, provided it doesn't mess up any storage locker plans.
normal_DSC_00021586resize.jpg

Everything diagrammed is just more of the 2 x 2s you have been using. The red is what I would definitely do. The black is what I would probably do, but at my house, we overbuild everything. In fact, when we build our houses, we look at code, and make it much better quality than code. Most builders will look at how to make a design meet code.
You are right about not wanting the edges to hang free. Plywood will not cantilever well. Sure, you don't stand that far over often, but once you do a time or two, it will start loosening up the screws holding it down to middle stringers. (as in pulling through)

Just my 2 cents worth. Take it or leave it, as you must.
 
Can't wait to see the finished product!
I had an afterthought after I sent you the sketches: You could use a hole saw and drill maybe a 1" diameter hole in the center of each of the gussets and use the holes as a raceway to run cables through. Just another thought.
 
Below are my plans.

Yellow = flotation foam.
Green = Storage
Blue = rod locker but it will be access via end of middle bench seat
red = seat location

deckplan.JPG
 
i think i may be ignorant when comes to this, so i'll ask the ?....is float foam really needed?????? does it make your boat any more boyant ??? does it float higher in the water under normal conditions ??? I'm just not up on the concept thats why im asking ???
 
The float foam will prevent the boat from sinking in an emergency - it will actually lower the water line slightly because of the weight of the foam. (Think of it this way, the foam is still heavier then air so it does nothing to effect displacement - much like adding a load of wood could sink a boat - despite the fact that wood floats)

The foam will also deaden sound - and in a tin boat this is nice
 
If you block the sections off that you are going to fill with foam, and fill them full would that give you any deck support? Otherwise I was thinking a fore to aft stringer with angled supports to the next inboard vertical support.
 
Yes it will, to a point. That stuff (the two part expanding foam - not great stuff) is very strong. But, more than adding strength, it adds stiffness. Keeps stringers from flexing (especially in larger boats, when the stringers are formed aluminum, and upwards of 10 inches high, on edge), and keeps the deck a tad solider to walk upon. To pour that stuff, you will need to block off all but the top. This stuff will fill EVERY void you have. Then, you mix a small amount and pour quickly (starts expanding in a matter of seconds, and you have less than a minute to pour after mixing it. Then, you pour a LITTLE bit in the void. It will expand a lot. Don't put anything to hold it down or conpress it, as it doesn't expand, and actually has more strength fully expanded. Plus, it is so strong, it will probably break what you put there. Let it "grow," over the top of the stringers, then cut it down later.
The best way to do this, is mix small batches, and put a few layers in. There is a calculation on many of the sites that sells it, stating how many cubic feet supports how many pounds. You want to at least equal the weight of the boat. If you can't get the full amount to fit, don't bother putting any in, as it is a waste of money, as the boat will sink anyway. :D
 
For your rod locker I saw someone on another site used plastic tubes in the front part of his rod locker. Seems like if you used them you wouldn't need to worry about walling the entire locker compartment in. I think he said they were golf bag tubes.
 
I have seen plastic tubes with bungee cord holder on the end to hold casting rods and they have oval ones to hold spinning rods these would work well for you you could even tie them in place under the deck and use the spray foam to secure them.just be sure to plug the ends
the project looks good keep the pictures coming

Are you going to use bins in the storage areas?

Wayne
 

Latest posts

Top