The 14' Jet boat project (update 7/19/2010 Video on page 4)

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ihavenoideawhattoput

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
273
Reaction score
0
Boat 197? 14' $350 w trailer and good title and reg. This is a big deal in South Carolina
Motor and Jet 1995 SeaDoo XP $130 Was told they could not get it to start, we rode it at the lake the next morning. :)

Here is a photo project update and a little information.

This is my first boat ever and I go and cut a hole in it. Everyone thinks I am crazy.

Redid the trailer
4742064020_716546d5e7.jpg


Stripped most of the paint from the inside of the boat.
4741427843_136c774459.jpg


Measured and cut the boat. We measured the lowest rib on the Sea Doo and based our first cut on this and it ended up being perfect.
4741427677_139a2fecbd.jpg


No turning back now, you can see the chalk line in the photo, this is what was used to keep the cuts somewhat strait.
4742063610_9a836f345e.jpg


Can we keep it? NOPE
4742063578_9569e7362b.jpg


First cut on the SeaDoo Made a world of difference getting all the guts out
4742063968_b79f7945bb.jpg


First test fit, there was an echo in the garage as everyone said "BADDASS" at the same time. Everyone thought I was crazy up untill this point right here.
4741427631_76767319e8.jpg

4742063944_a2ca5fbc31.jpg


Then we removed the motor and more paint.
4751135885_5595a307f8.jpg

4751135905_8e740c7d0e.jpg


Motor in for life, sealed in with 5/16" lag bolts and 3M 5200, a length of 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum flat bar was used on the inside and the outside for strength, the separation between the fiberglass and aluminum got epoxy that is being sanded smooth, more photo's of that part to come later
4766991541_ccfe3bcc82.jpg


a little decking work has begun.
4766991565_21496b2980.jpg


I hope to do a water test this coming weekend while the decking is out of it for sealing. To fasten the decking together I bought an 8' length of aluminum angle and have cut to size all of my brackets. Sure is cheaper than buying all that stainless hardware and it's pretty strong.

Any questions just ask, nice forum you all have here by the way. I will also get more photo's of the engine install soon. Hands where too nasty to take photo's 5200 is nasty stuff. Oh yea so is fiberglass, many nights I scratched myself to sleep, glad that part is over!
 
Stop!!!!!!!! before you go any further......... take any Pressure Treated lumber out of there, it will just react with the aluminum and cause corrosion and pitting, and fast.

Other than that, It looks awsome..... and I can't wait to see more.. :popcorn:
 
Wow, I like where this is going! Can't wait to see more.

There was another guy on this site that did a similar conversion. However, you appear to be taking a different, simpler, approach.
 
perchin said:
Stop!!!!!!!! before you go any further......... take any Pressure Treated lumber out of there, it will just react with the aluminum and cause corrosion and pitting, and fast.

Other than that, It looks awsome..... and I can't wait to see more.. :popcorn:

Is it OK to seal it with watersealer before installing it? Someone else already told me about this issue and recomended either sealing the wood or protecting the aluminum.

So what is the best wood to use and keep it from rotting? Not using marine grade this is a cheap garage project.


More pictures of the motor mount coming when the batteries get finished charging on the camera. Really tired of cell phone pics, they show no detail.
 
Jim said:
Use plain old regular lumber instead and seal that.

Thank you Jim This is why I came here, LOTS of information. I heard about the salt issue and didn't even think about salt treated lumber causing the same issue.
 
Tis the copper in the treated lumber that reacts with the aluminum :wink: Can't wait to see her maiden voyage. 8)
 
Boats over all view
4770467627_2ae8aa8b3e.jpg


Input: you can see the 1/8" bar on the bottom to keep from pulling the bolts into the boat along with half the lake, there is another one of these on the inside of the boat also. Sanded everything the 5200 would touch for good stick.
4771104666_88a7bf5a0e.jpg


Inner support brace
4770468387_2c47176efb.jpg


Overhead motor install shot
4771105110_56d3e81c41.jpg


Rear Tow Hook Brace and Tow Hook (kids need a place to put a tube)
4771103712_5befd278cc.jpg

4770466409_d293d5ed15.jpg


Rear Lag Bolts and Epoxy, Still working on the sanding, have to take a break from the sanding, my hand gets tired.
4771104150_ceb32683a9.jpg


4 lag bolts in rear and 5 stainless steel machine screws along the top edge, aluminum transom was rolled under, drilled, and sealed, then covered in putty to make it look cleaner, the main frame will NEVER come out again.
4770466901_1379fb4774.jpg


Those 5 upper screws, you can also see the waterline vent in the upper right.
4771104416_fcf7768056.jpg


Outer Water Vent
4770467245_0de5f4c000.jpg


If you want anymore photo's of certain parts let me know, I have more located here https://www.flickr.com/photos/23923527@N04/sets/72157624375334682/

Tonight I have to get the pressure treated wood out of the dang transom then I will be back on track to get this project complete by the end of the month.
 
I have a major concern with the tube tie point. Tubes put a hell of a lot of force on their tow point - and much of the time impact force.

It looks to me as if the tow point only goes through the single layer of transom aluminum, with the small angle backup plate, as well as the factory tie down ring back up plate. You need to get whatever structure that tow point is on going all the way across. I see you have the slightly turned up lip on the top of the angle going to the wood, but as you can see, the outside of the radius has started cracking already. 6000 alloy aluminum doesn't bend very well at all - just cracks, like you've seen. Brake bending an extrusion like that is weakening the (already weak, as that is 6063, not 6061) piece of aluminum angle.

That tow point really needs to be attached to something SOLID, that runs the entire width of the boat. You may even want to, after putting some structure all the way across, still put a ring on either side of the transom, and use a bridle, to get the load off to the edges, as opposed to right in the middle of a span.
 
bassboy1 said:
I have a major concern with the tube tie point. Tubes put a hell of a lot of force on their tow point - and much of the time impact force.

It looks to me as if the tow point only goes through the single layer of transom aluminum, with the small angle backup plate, as well as the factory tie down ring back up plate. You need to get whatever structure that tow point is on going all the way across. I see you have the slightly turned up lip on the top of the angle going to the wood, but as you can see, the outside of the radius has started cracking already. 6000 alloy aluminum doesn't bend very well at all - just cracks, like you've seen. Brake bending an extrusion like that is weakening the (already weak, as that is 6063, not 6061) piece of aluminum angle.

That tow point really needs to be attached to something SOLID, that runs the entire width of the boat. You may even want to, after putting some structure all the way across, still put a ring on either side of the transom, and use a bridle, to get the load off to the edges, as opposed to right in the middle of a span.


FIXED

Measure transom
4772350879_b07d1fa143.jpg


Mark for cut
4772351459_b98d727331.jpg


Cut
4772990962_ec5e411f34.jpg


Set up table saw to rip 1" thick transom
4772991584_c43dcd51cf.jpg


**** 10" blades
4772992176_f70243bcb5.jpg


Thats better
4772353675_5df2d8d057.jpg


Mark to fit(13 year old son as clamp) note to self buy some clamps.....
4772993258_7d042377a6.jpg


Use a strait edge use table saw to cut :)
4772993716_6b0e89e745.jpg


Drill holes for tow hook
4772355313_0e3e26a697.jpg


GET BEER: grab new chisel, mark template for plate, yes it is strait
4772994912_14d568e833.jpg


Pay Dirt
4772995434_5a1e463e97.jpg


Now what you don't see is there is a piece of 2" by 1/8" flat bar between the aluminum transom and the 2x6 and this guy
4772357203_ab167ddac1.jpg


Measure twice cut once
4772996904_b4d2dccd32.jpg
 
We have also decided to add bracing from the transom to the sides of the boat under the decking, we wondered about that and thought we might have fixed it, figured I had to get the pressure treated wood out of there, might as well get it right.
 
Progress:

New fuel lines installed and fuel shutoff in place.
4777040906_c971ec105e.jpg


Fuel Tank installed
4776408931_b732818186.jpg


Steering installed and there is an issue, it is bound up somewhere and something is going to have to change, this is tonights project
4776408381_60595870e3.jpg


Hammer is there untill I get some pipe bent. You get the idea.
4776408213_501c6ebe99.jpg

4776408503_34536cf480.jpg
 

Latest posts

Top