my 1436 build

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chevyrulz

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Hull is a 1994 Alumacraft 1436, I'm modifying to make it more useful for duck hunting, oystering, shrimping, flounder gigging, & inshore fishing. I've learned a lot about what I've done by reading other people's mods on here.

I have just $850 invested in the hull, trailer, & engine thanks to craigslist & a buddy.

here's the hull prior to modification:
41013013.jpg


my '92 Evinrude 30 longshaft with electric start + 3 sheets of 4'x4' 1/4" diamond plate:
evinrude.jpg


Since the motor is long shaft, I added a transom plate to raise the motor up 5.75" bringing the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull. I also built a switch panel in the rear bench to house the electric key start, lanyard kill switch, bilge pump switch, & nav/anchor light switch. I installed a floor in the cockpit area to keep from tripping over the ribs or standing in water during heavy rain. All of the framing & decking was done using 1/8" aluminum angle and 1/4" diamond plate. The sides of the gunbox are 1/4" oak plywood sealed with oil based polyurethane (not exposed to sunlight so it will last plenty long enough for me, spar varnish/urethane would've been better....), and the floor is supported on the ends with 1" pine boards sealed with roll-on bedliner from Lowe's. Once I finish this entire project, I'll post up a final material list including costs.

here's the rear floor before & after:
floorj.jpg
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this is the front deck during the build:
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thank you to tinboats for the cardboard floor template method:
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jonnydeck6.jpg
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deck completed, jack plate installed, & motor mounted:
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[strike]these are the only tools I used[/strike] correction, i used a jig saw too:

jonnytools.jpg



updates to follow
 
lookin good that motor should do alot better then that heavy 4 stroke
 
thanks nick

latches & handles all mounted on the hatch doors, then i added guide posts to the trailer for $25, hoping to mount the motor soon so i can tidy up the electrical then paint her camo. if you're wondering, the guide posts are 1.25" wide, 0.25" thick steel flat stock which cost $8 each from home depot. I bent the steel by hand in my bench vice, & they're surprisingly sturdy. I primed them before installation to inhibit corrosion. steel bolted to trailer frame with galvanized 5/16" bolts & lock washers, & capped with 1.25" PVC. these are great to keep the hull centered over the trailer bunks when you pull the truck & boat up a ramp with strong current. enough yapping, here's more pictures:

guide posts
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battery hatch
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I love these slam latches, slam it shut & it stays that way, even in rough water, & just pull to open:
imageejdr.jpg
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imageybd.jpg



deck & locking gunbox
imagegwhp.jpg
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imageurtv.jpg
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this monstrosity is the aluminum transom plate / jack plate which has yet to be cut down to fit width wise:
imagerzsm.jpg
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imageejch.jpg
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i'm not really wanting to attack that thing w/ my side grinder, so i'm waiting until my buddy can get me on the ban saw @ his work. after i cut it to width, it will slide down over the transom with about 7" sticking up past the current transom height, which along w/ the slant of the transom, should give me the 5-6" extra height i need for the cavitation plate to be parallel with bottom of hull.
 
i attacked it with my angle grinder, came out great!

transom plate installed, engine mounted, switch panel 75% finished, just a couple more wires to hook up. still to come, extending my trailer tongue, mounting anchor light, and camo!

picture004prq.jpg
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i'll get some better pictures up soon
 
she took her maiden voyage this past saturday, runs great! i lucked out on my jack plate height guestimation, the boat handles turns like it's on rails, not slipping & sliding through the turns @ speed like most other 1436's i've driven. the holeshot is amazing w/ this 30hp 2 stroke on such a lightweight hull. I thought for sure it would sit lower out back w/ that big ole motor, but it sits just right. when i abruptly let off the throttle, no water comes over the transom, or even comes close to coming over. the angle of attack going through rough water is perfect. i was able to keep it pinned full throttle going through knee high swells across open water. i made sure to beat her up a little bit so I know what she can take come duck season. I was honestly surprised that my hatches stayed shut i gave it such a beating. Lord knows i don't wanna break her @ 4am out in the middle of nowhere. next step is to paint her camo. i have begun prep by scuffing up the aluminum deck w/ a wire brush on my drill, so i can roll the deck w/ bed liner. then i'll hit any bare spots w/ self etching primer, paint the whole boat brown, then hit it w/ my stencils using green for the old school camo stencil, black for the tree bark outline stencil, and tan for the marsh grass stencil. i'm using redleg camo's "fowl grass 3" pattern. they recommend using sherwin williams oil base, but i'm going rattle can via krylon fusion camoflage from oreilly auto parts. here's the only pic i managed to get over the weekend, i'll get some more up here soon showing how it sits in the water:

41113.jpg
 
mounted my 4 cleats, & painting has begun. here she is after sanding, cleaning, & a light coat of self etching primer:

42913006.jpg
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next will be to spray the entire hull & motor tan, then the 1st of 3 stencils. 1st will be the "old school" camo stencil sprayed brown. 2nd will be the "tree bark" stencil sprayed black. stopping there creates a "bottomland" pattern, like the one made by mossy oak, which is great for flooded timber, but too dark for marsh hunts so I'll be going over that w/ the 3rd stencil which is the "marsh grass" stencil sprayed in the same tan as the base coat.

i also ordered a folding tongue coupler, 4 flush mounted vertical rod holders, and a boat cover.

landed the 1st fish on the boat this past weekend, a spotted sea trout, didn't have a ruler so i threw him back, prolly a 12" fish, i need to mount a ruler on the bottom of the gunbox door!
 
I've never seen a transom extension like that before, but I bet that thing flies! You should do a speed check after you finish painting.
 
it's definitely fast! i haven't GPS'd it yet, but i'm guessing 35+

i opted for the sleeve instead of a jack plate mostly because it was available cheap ($50).

I'll post up the GPS speed here once I'm able to test it
 
no GPS speed yet, but camo has begun, i practiced on the deck, & i think it's too busy. i'm gonna redo it w/ less stencil density. it looks great up close, but the overall color appears too dark when viewed @ a distance making it hard to see the detail which makes it look all one color & that's bad for breaking up the outline of the boat as far as actually hiding the boat for a duck hunt.

dn2f.jpg
fm89.jpg
 
thanks Tx! the transom sleeve was custom fabricated for a different type of boat (a High Tide BugBuster). the guy never ended up using it & my buddy saw it laying around & was able to snag it up for me


here's my estimated costs for the project:

$500 - 1436 Alumacraft jon boat hull (craigslist)
$250 - minty fresh, used galvanized trailer (craigslist)
$100 - 30hp Evinrude 2-stroke tiller handle outboard motor (traded on craigslist)
$88 - 53' of 1/8" aluminum angle (onlinemetals.com)
$75 - (3) sheets of 4x4', 1/4" aluminum diamond plate (craigslist)
$140 - Krylon Fusion camo spray paint (auto parts stores)
$38 - Rustoleum roll-on truck bed liner (lowes)
$65 - Everstart marine battery (wal-mart)
$75 - 4ga & 16ga wire & various electrical connectors (lowes, home depot, radio shack, & west marine)
$10 - (1) on/off switch & (1) on/off/on switch (lowes)
$5 - toggle switch boots (amazon.com)
$34 - navigational lights (amazon.com)
~$200 - hardware / fittings / fasteners / etc... - boxes of 3/6" rivets, (4) 6" cleats, stainless piano hinges, handles, latches, bilge plumbing, 5200 adhesive... (amazon.com, home depot / lowes, & boat dealership)
$14 - 4x8', 1/4" oak plywood (lowes)
$40 - camo stencils (redlegcamo.com)
$25 - folding trailer jack (harbor freight tools)
$77 - Fulton folding 2x3 trailer tongue hinge (ebay.com)
$20 - 32" galvanized tongue extension (trailer repair shop)
$30 - Attwood 500gph bilge pump (wal-mart)
$30 - homemade trailer guide posts (home depot)
$50 - Classic Accessories 12-14' jon boat cover (wal-mart)
$18 - Avery camo motor cover (ebay.com)
$25 - (4) flush mount, vertical rod holders (ebay.com)
~$100 - tools - pop rivet gun, cut off wheels for angle grinder, jig saw blades, drill bits, hole saws, etc...

Grand Total = just over $2,000
 
2000.00 for a setup like that is hard to beat.
I would love to find a 30hp for 100 bucks.lol
What's the story on that?
My 1436 moves around nicely with my 15hp , I can only imagine how quick that thing is!
 
A buddy sold me his '94 honda 35hp for $500, I traded the Honda for the Evinrude & $400, so it only cost me $100 :mrgreen:

I installed 2 flush, vertical rod holders in the front deck, & the Fulton folding tongue hinge coupler on the trailer. The 2x3 galvanized tongue extension is 32" long, it's actually a stock part from an Easy Loader roller trailer, it's the bar that the roller hardware mounts onto. local trailer shop had 1 laying around, & gave it to me for $20. Honestly, I didn't care anything about the folding hinge feature, I just needed to extend my tongue because my trailer was too small for my hull. it is still about 6" too short, but that's no big deal. i could even put longer bunks on it, if i cared.

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5713004.jpg

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GPS @ 31 mph

but the whale tale hasn't yet been re-installed because of painting, I'm hoping to gain 1 or 2 mph from the stern lift provided by the whale tale so I'll update once I'm able to GPS again.
 
thank you

i had a lot of fun with this build

anyone feel free to respond with questions or comments
 
Chevy, you did a great job. Camo looks great on the diamond plate! When I first started reading this post I thought you were going to be blinded by plating, hence the sunglasses on your maiden voyage. :)

Thanks for the ideas for decking as I begin my templating. I have a 1636 Lowe with 15" transom, and I'm still toying with the idea of a deck from from first bench to bow or second bench to bow. Any thoughts, I know yours is 14' so your decision was easy.
 
panFried said:
I have a 1636 Lowe with 15" transom, and I'm still toying with the idea of a deck from from first bench to bow or second bench to bow. Any thoughts,
Thanks!

i love my huge deck & the storage underneath it. without a picture of yours it's difficult to give any sound advice. if you have 2 center benches, then i suggest cutting out the rear center bench & decking from the forward center bench to the bow. that will give you a big enough deck, & increase your floor space. you could then put in a gun box for storage on the port side of the newly larger floor.

if i didn't take mine over rough water, @ 4am, when it's freezing outside, while i'm wearing chest waders, then i'd have cut my center bench out, & made the front deck about 1/2 the length as the one i made.


Ranchero50 said:
That turned out well, any shots from a distance in it's environment? The camo dose look really busy up close.
Thanks! I actually don't have any other pictures at this time. It looks dark & monotone from a distance. it's darker than i wanted, & it looks all one color because it's so busy. I have already cut up the stencils so when I redo it, the pattern is going to be less dense. And when I redo it, I'm using a less dark brown, more of a dark peanut butter type color than the chocolate brown i used initially. The new color, and use of less black bark should lighten things up considerably. I'll put up pictures for sure once the paintjob has been completed. i want it to blend into a marsh bank of grass, but also blend into a timber swamp of trees & brush. i mostly hunt marsh so i need light color overall, but the marsh has bushes & trees here or there on the bank so some dark won't hurt, & if i can mix it up just right, i should blend into both environments
 

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