Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!

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Shoedawg
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Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!

Post by Shoedawg »

Hi,

This is my first post, and I found this site after doing some research about Jon Boat mods. So far I am liking what I am seeing! :-D I am a ROOKIE, brand new boat owner, so please go easy on me.

I have just purchased a Modified V Jon boat with a 50HP Mercury. Here are the specs:

Make/Model: A 2000 Fisher Dominator Modified-V
Length: 17ft
Motor: 2000 Mercury 50ECPTO (50 HP)
Trailer: 2000 Trailerstar
I do not know the weight limit (and could not find the sticker on the boat that tells you)

I purchased the boat, trailer & motor for $900. The guy selling it used it for duck hunting and fishing. It was last used in Jan 2014, after duck season was over. His wife hates the boat and she wanted him to upgrade. Seller said he can get it into 4" on water.

Here are some pictures of it:
20140124_123855 (1).jpg
20140211_112409 (2).jpg
20140211_112420 (1).jpg
As you can see, she needs some work. I would like to add a deck to the front, redo the back and replace the flooring. It does have a live-well. The boat is already painted with a wetlands camo (a plus), and the prop is a year old. The bilge pump was installed in 2010. Also the throttle (though working but has some issues) will need to be replaced.

Any suggestions or what you guys would do with this. I would like it to be a combo hunting/fishing boat.
I don't know all the terminology yet, but its widest point (measure from the top rail to rail) is about 66".

Shoe
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Last edited by Shoedawg on 24 Sep 2016, 07:08, edited 3 times in total.
Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

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hawghunters
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Post by hawghunters »

Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes :)

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Shoedawg
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Post by Shoedawg »

hawghunters » 14 Feb 2014, 19:23 wrote:Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes :)
Thanks. Do you know how I can get the dimensions for the boat. Such as the floor width, and width of the rails (sorry still trying to get the terminology down). I read on one sticky thread, that one needs to be careful about how high they put their decking, but this depends on the width of the boat.

Shoe
Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

How to Smell Like a REAL MAN.
Combine: fuel, wood, grease, dirt, metal, BBQ, yard, coffee, tobacco juice, & beer.
Mix well. Apply to Sweaty Chest Hair using a Flannel Cloth.

"Work Harder and Smarter" - Mike Rowe

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1957Crestliner12
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Post by 1957Crestliner12 »

Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.

If the engine runs and the boat doesn't leak like a sieve you did good.

Congrat's rookie...

Rod
Oriental, NC

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Shoedawg
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Post by Shoedawg »

1957Crestliner12 » 14 Feb 2014, 19:48 wrote:Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.

Rod
Oriental, NC

Hey Rod,

Funny you bring up the throttle control. According to the manual I got with the boat, its a Commander 3000 Classic. The seller said it works but is "funky". He had it installed several years ago, and the installer hooked the controls backwards! So up is reverse, and back is forward. Plus the trim switch is not working (seller thinks it may be a short).

The seller also mentioned that to get it into neutral, you have to stick a screw driver into the bottom (where the circle is on the throttle) and play with it.

I am just going to replace it, if the price is right.
20140211_112105 (3).jpg
Here is the throttle
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Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

How to Smell Like a REAL MAN.
Combine: fuel, wood, grease, dirt, metal, BBQ, yard, coffee, tobacco juice, & beer.
Mix well. Apply to Sweaty Chest Hair using a Flannel Cloth.

"Work Harder and Smarter" - Mike Rowe

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1957Crestliner12
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Post by 1957Crestliner12 »

Get a used Merc control off of eBay and you're set...

Rod
Oriental, NC

kfa4303
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Post by kfa4303 »

welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.

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Shoedawg
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Post by Shoedawg »

kfa4303 » 15 Feb 2014, 08:49 wrote:welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.

Kfa4303,
Thanks. The motor runs good. We started it up for a few seconds in the lot. To a look inside and it was clean and well maintained. Seller just used the boat this January. I have seen the boat go out a few times (I live on a small Air Force base) to the lake.

I have been running through the threads for info, and what you point out is what I have seen. I did see a few guys use aluminum ladders for their decking support. Been looking at Craigslist and found a few ladders for cheap. I have a lot to learn about rivets and aluminum angle and the like. Lots of great ideas on this forum. I am writing down some stuff I like and what I need to research.

I plan on getting this project started soon, and will open up a thread, detailing the adventure.

I do plan on getting a Trolling Motor, replacing the throttle controller, and figure out how to repair the console.

Shoe
Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

How to Smell Like a REAL MAN.
Combine: fuel, wood, grease, dirt, metal, BBQ, yard, coffee, tobacco juice, & beer.
Mix well. Apply to Sweaty Chest Hair using a Flannel Cloth.

"Work Harder and Smarter" - Mike Rowe

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Captain Ahab
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Post by Captain Ahab »

You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously
Trying to Fish as often as Jim works :LOL2:

doc1976
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Post by doc1976 »

Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 13:40 wrote:You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously
Yes, never start it out of water. At the very least use the ears that you attach to the garden hose. Besides that, good job on the buy. Half the fun with older boats is fixing them up the way you want them. My suggestion is don't rush it, do a lot of research before you start. Consider materials, construction methods and very important, layout. You have a good chunk of space to work with, so plan out storage and fishing decks well. Go to the local boat shop and look at the new boats to get some ideas for the layout. Don't cut corners on materials, you don't want to do it again in a couple years. If there is a bass pro shops in your area go check out the trackers, they are similar in shape to yours

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Shoedawg
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Post by Shoedawg »

Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 14:40 wrote:You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously

No, no, no! We used the suction cups that you attached a water hose to and run water. We towed the boat to the lots spigot and used it. I am new to this, but I knew better than to start it up without water to cool the engine. I should have clarified this. Sorry about that.

Good advice on visiting a boat store. There are ton of them in Boise.
Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

How to Smell Like a REAL MAN.
Combine: fuel, wood, grease, dirt, metal, BBQ, yard, coffee, tobacco juice, & beer.
Mix well. Apply to Sweaty Chest Hair using a Flannel Cloth.

"Work Harder and Smarter" - Mike Rowe

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thill
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Post by thill »

Starting up "for a few seconds" isn't going to hurt the impeller... But it's ALWAYS a good idea to replace the impeller on any boat where you don't know when the last one was replaced.

Generally, if you boat in clean water, replace them every 3 years. If in mud a lot, make sure to flush the engine thoroughly, and change the impeller every year. At least inspect it every year.

A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.

Nice snag for $900! At least where I live, it would be. Best wishes for a quick, clean restoration.

-TH
-TH

1998 Crestliner 1650 Fish Hawk (Current Project Boat)
1967 Ski Barge 19' C.C, 1992 Evinrude 70 HP (Future Project Boat)
1995 Princecraft 16' - "Starfish 20", Evinrude 35 HP
1998 Sea Hunt Victory 215, Mercury 225 HP Optimax
1994 Offshore CC Bay Boat, 22' - Evinrude 150 HP

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Captain Ahab
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Post by Captain Ahab »

thill » Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:53 am wrote: A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.

.

-TH
Neat trick - thanks gonna try it
Trying to Fish as often as Jim works :LOL2:

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Post by surfman »

Nice snag for $900, looks like it has floatation foam in the sides of the boat, I know they call that a modified V but it is really just a flat bottom jon boat with a pointed bow. A modified V has a V hull and is only flat at the stern. They usually have a more rounded bottom but that is a fine boat. Lot’s of good suggestions on here so far.

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Shoedawg
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Post by Shoedawg »

Thanks for the inputs. I have done a lot of research and taking notes from the forum. There is a lot of great information to comb through here.

Lately I have been concentrating on aluminum framing. I am pretty handy when it comes to woodwork, but really do not want to use wood for my framing, due to the excessive weight. Using aluminum would lessen the weight, but I am still learning about how to use it.

There are many types of grades like 6061, 6063, etc and I am trying to figure out what it all means when it all comes together.

I am thinking of going with a combination of Square tubing, Angle, Sheet and maybe Round pipe aluminum. Not sure what I am going to use to help fasten it all together.

I know to use rivets, but what type (i.e. hallowed, solid) and the size? And I am not going to use a hand rivet gun, but getting a pneumatic one. I see Hardware Freight has a decently priced one.

Link here https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 98898.html

I do know not to mix different metals together (like copper and aluminum). I am going into Boise tomorrow
morning to see what the scrap yards have on hand. So far I have seen new aluminum for about $1.50-$2.00 a foot.

Shoe
Project: Shoebox - 1746 Fisher (Remod)
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33272

How to Smell Like a REAL MAN.
Combine: fuel, wood, grease, dirt, metal, BBQ, yard, coffee, tobacco juice, & beer.
Mix well. Apply to Sweaty Chest Hair using a Flannel Cloth.

"Work Harder and Smarter" - Mike Rowe