Yamaha Jet pump all-stainless wear ring assembly

[bellman]

I'll do my best to get pics of the mag pump and pics of an OE stator so the HUGE differences can be seen. It may not come out with great detail since the exit, steering, and trim are installed, but I'll see what I can do. A mag pump is truly a thing of beauty.

[bellman]

OK, I finally got around to taking the best pics of my pump/prop/rideplate/intake grate setup that i could. It also shows the steering and trim system. I also took a couple of pics of a stock stator section so the differences can be seen. Keep in mind The pictures of the mag pump are taken through the exit and steering nozzles from the rear because I'm far too lazy to take it out just for a few pics. Hope this makes all this easier to visualize. This is a setback 12 vane 140mm. Notice the short length & very gentle curve of the vanes. The stock stator vanes almost look like the letter j compared. There is also a considerable amount of tuning done at Skat after casting where every vane is shaped and all flash and obstructions are cleaned up. It's design is much more efficient because the water is not forced to make such sharp bends and it also is passing over thinner, more hydrodynamic vanes than impede water flow much less.

Charles

P.S. You can also see the rideplate I made. It's 1/4" al and is about 2" longer than the transom and nozzle. I've found myself floating backwards into rocks many times and it would crack the steering nozzle into a million pieces if the nozzle hit first. This should take the brunt of those hits. It's mounted with an inch thick piece of super hard rubber between it and the pump tunnel so it can absorb some shock and not disturb any adhesives.

[amk]

ya your stock looks ruff but nothing close to min I think most of my vanes are bent and chiped I guess I need to drop some cash on a mag pump.

[PSG-1]

There is definitely a noticeable difference in the configuration of the vanes of the OEM pump vs. the 12 vane. I feel pretty sure my boat would see some appreciable gains in performance with one of those. Just gotta save up the cash to get one.

[bellman]

Here's a link to the Riva pump strainer. It's made for 155mm pumps, but I think you could either adapt/fabricate a standoff to make it work on the 144 pump or make something similar.

https://rivaracing.com/i-17284030

P.S. That's the 90deg brass barbed fitting I mentioned in the dual cooling post. If you do add one, make sure it's perpendicular to the pump, not at any angle, so the water is forced into the cooling line. You don't want to make a low pressure venturi like the bilge fitting.

Charles

[amk]

Well I pulled the trigger on the stator it's a Solas came with new ss skat prop the shaft is fx1 I have to swap it. Unfortunately it'll be until mid December for trial run I wiped a crank bearing. I don't know if it's coincidence or I did it but i put seafoam in my gas and let it idle in the yard on the hose for about 20 minutes and all the sudden it messed up bad. Once I get it running it will be a beast.

[bellman]

Well I pulled the trigger on the stator it's a Solas came with new ss skat prop the shaft is fx1 I have to swap it. Unfortunately it'll be until mid December for trial run I wiped a crank bearing. I don't know if it's coincidence or I did it but i put seafoam in my gas and let it idle in the yard on the hose for about 20 minutes and all the sudden it messed up bad. Once I get it running it will be a beast.

That looks good! I presume it's a 144 since that looks like an OE wear ring??? If it uses props that fit OE pumps (unlike Skat pumps that require magnum props), you should be able to find one that's right on for your boat. If the prop is right for an FX-1, it may be shallow for your boat, but I'd definitely run it and see what sort of RPM you're turning before you do anything else. You can also change things a good bit with exit nozzle sizes. IMO, don't let anyone tell you to have the prop "cut back". Those pumps have more than enough hook up w/o it and it would likely hurt performance. When you get it dialed in, I think you're going to to blown away by what it's capable of. You really do have to see it to believe it. Having it in your hands, it's a thing of beauty isn't it! If you need any help with changing shafts or prop/shaft tools, etc. just PM me and I'll try to give you a hand.

Charles

[amk]

Thanks. This thing is 20lbs its noticeably heavier than the stock kinda thinking I need to have some angle welded back to bolt to the wear ring and exit nozzle bolt holes for support. I just checked its not a skat its a Solas 12/18 I think the same as I already have. Paid $650 for it shipped not an outstanding deal but definetly got it cheaper then new. The stator is $500 new then add the bearing and wear ring and new ss prop probably 1-1.2k new.

[bellman]

Is that the way your pump is setup when everything is all installed?

[amk]

Yes and it's worked great for over a year.

[PSG-1]

I would recommend adding some brackets to bolt the pump nozzle support brackets to. That's a lot of unsupported weight/thrust back there.

[CedarRiverScooter]

Attach it to a swim platform

[amk]

ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.

[bellman]

ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.

You laugh, but a friend "helped" carry the rear of one of my skis with me to the water. I noticed it didn't seem right and found he had carried his end by the steering nozzle and had broken it I would SERIOUSLY add something very substantial to mount the pump mounts (front and rear) to. The long 6mm bolts are ONLY for holding the pump sections together. I would personally also make a ride plate under the entite pump that's an inch or two longer than the steering nozzle. A hard hit to the pump could knock the whole thing off and since the driveshaft is only connected to the motor with splines all you'd have to avoid losing that new pump would be your cables and cooling lines. Slightly off this, does the Solas pump have a 75mm hub? The OEM stator section has a 60 mm hub. The larger hub on the Skat C-75 mag pumps further helps the pump trade pressure for velocity.

Charles

[PSG-1]

ya I was thinking one of my intelligent friends will use it as a step.

You laugh, but a friend "helped" carry the rear of one of my skis with me to the water. I noticed it didn't seem right and found he had carried his end by the steering nozzle and had broken it I would SERIOUSLY add something very substantial to mount the pump mounts (front and rear) to. The long 6mm bolts are ONLY for holding the pump sections together. I would personally also make a ride plate under the entite pump that's an inch or two longer than the steering nozzle. A hard hit to the pump could knock the whole thing off and since the driveshaft is only connected to the motor with splines all you'd have to avoid losing that new pump would be your cables and cooling lines.

I guess that's another good reason for having the support brackets on the thrust nozzle, as well as the wear ring. Like you said, those long 6mm bolts aren't very strong, in fact, often times, they snap when the threads seize up in the pump intake assembly.

I agree with the ride plate idea, as well. I did that with my boat, made it from 1/4" aluminum plate. Also added extended side plates that bolt to the existing tunnel. This, combined with the platform, gives all-around protection to the pump from log strikes, or, if I ever get brave enough to go farther inland toward the fall line....rock strikes.