Instrument Gauge Lights & Nav Lighting

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Will 31pics

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Alumacraft 1860. Bought used. Here is what I discovered.

BOTH sockets for nav lights were corroded. Replaced both. (still dont work) Brker not tripped.
All instrument gauge lights dont work. Brker not tripped.

Are all these lights connected ? I got NO electrical voltage readings on the nav light wiring.
All instrument gauge bulbs are good. I do get 12 Volts on each Gauge ""EXCEPT""
The 12 volt readings only come off the hot leg off the blue wire & the other end to the ignition lug on the back of each gauge. If that makes any sense.
To proceed, I think I need to know WHAT makes the gauge lights come on.I have turned on accessory switch- no lights
Ignition key to on- still no lights. I didn't check to see if they come on WHILE the motor is actually running..

and if that all isnt confusing enough, There is the nav lights issue.
Can I solve these issues SEPARATE or are. they connected somehow.

Thank you for any input.
 

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I'd separate to troubleshoot ... then could unite IF desired ...

NAV Lights
Probably easiest to trace wires going forward or aft from helm ... where are they routed or originate from? The black ground should go direct from (-0) buss bar (or Neg post from CB panel, depending on how fancy a setup) to light, but the (+)Pos lead goes from CB panel to Switch and then off to both lights. Usually a red wire.

If you find 2 connectors for Nav lights, the switch is a double pole, so 1 position lights the bow light and the 2nd position keeps the bow light on and adds the All-Around light (or vice versa). FWIW I like to always wire mine so my Red/Green Nav lights can stay on independently of the All-Around light, as I find them (A-As) to be blinding.

GAUGE Lights
Given: The 12 volt readings only come off the hot leg off the blue wire & the other end to the ignition lug on the back of each gauge.

The ignition circuit is different than the light circuit in gauges and it appears you may have powered the gauge lights through the blue wire. Trace the blue wire BACK from the 1st gauge in the circuit ... to where does it come from? Where does it originate? It has to gets its power from somewhere. Even test the gauge lights by a separate "test run" lead of (+) to blue wire and (-) to ground. I'd do these tests with your ignition off so you don't end up fooling yourself, as 12V circuits will ALWAYS find its way back to ground (even if NOT the right way!), as even through that ign wire to the blue lead you tried, eventually goes to ground via the black ground wire on the gauge.

As per above, once you determine what lead is where, then you can determine how YOU want to power that light/circuit. For example, my gauge lights only come on via a separate/dedicated switch, so I only get them on if I want them on.
 
This is FACTORY wiring. Does not look like anything has been done to it. I will start tracing however. Sounds like ONE common wire for ll the dash lights is disconnected someplace. The nav light ? Ill check the switch for power & heat breaker for possible failure. .Thanks for the ideas....
 
DaleH said:
I'd separate to troubleshoot ... then could unite IF desired ...

NAV Lights
Probably easiest to trace wires going forward or aft from helm ... where are they routed or originate from? The black ground should go direct from (-0) buss bar (or Neg post from CB panel, depending on how fancy a setup) to light, but the (+)Pos lead goes from CB panel to Switch and then off to both lights. Usually a red wire.

If you find 2 connectors for Nav lights, the switch is a double pole, so 1 position lights the bow light and the 2nd position keeps the bow light on and adds the All-Around light (or vice versa). FWIW I like to always wire mine so my Red/Green Nav lights can stay on independently of the All-Around light, as I find them (A-As) to be blinding.

GAUGE Lights
Given: The 12 volt readings only come off the hot leg off the blue wire & the other end to the ignition lug on the back of each gauge.

The ignition circuit is different than the light circuit in gauges and it appears you may have powered the gauge lights through the blue wire. Trace the blue wire BACK from the 1st gauge in the circuit ... to where does it come from? Where does it originate? It has to gets its power from somewhere. Even test the gauge lights by a separate "test run" lead of (+) to blue wire and (-) to ground. I'd do these tests with your ignition off so you don't end up fooling yourself, as 12V circuits will ALWAYS find its way back to ground (even if NOT the right way!), as even through that ign wire to the blue lead you tried, eventually goes to ground via the black ground wire on the gauge.

As per above, once you determine what lead is where, then you can determine how YOU want to power that light/circuit. For example, my gauge lights only come on via a separate/dedicated switch, so I only get them on if I want them on.

Problems solved. I got lucky with a bad breaker & a disconnected wire. Plugged it in, swapped breakers and all came on ! Yeaaaa.. I have ordered all new breakers and the rubber caps. Thanks
 

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