Polar Kraft transom replacement

Hello all!

I am new to the forum here. To make a long story short, last year I acquired a polar Kraft Jon boat with what I'm guessing is NOT the original COX trailer that came with it. This boat was literally sunken into the yard around from my parents house and was there ever since I was a kid. I finally worked out a deal with the guy and paid $500 for the boat w/trailer and an old outboard motor that was on it. I sold the motor for $250 and am only into this project for $250 so far. I have cleaned up the trailer, put new lights on it and replaced the bearings. I am now ready to tackle the boat.

I have NOT had the boat in the water, but the bottom of it looks very nice and I am not anticipating a lot of leakage, other than maybe from leaky rivets etc. I do, however, need to replace the transom. I have never replaced a boat transom before, but do consider myself mechanically inclined enough to be able to do this as a winter project with the proper advice. I have studied some information on the internet about transom replacement and have the general idea of what I need to do, but I feel as though this boat is going to be more difficult because of the setup inside of this boat (braces etc).

Does anyone have some advice for me as to go about tackling this project?

Also, how do I add pictures to this?!?! I used to have a photo bucket account, but it looks like you need to pay for that now? (which I am not doing)

Thank you in advance!

Duck89 said:

Hello all!

Also, how do I add pictures to this?!?! I used to have a photo bucket account, but it looks like you need to pay for that now? (which I am not doing)

Thank you in advance!

Click to expand...

Under where you type in your post is a click-link called 'Attachments'. From there you can upload pics from your computer/tablet/phone with the 'Add files' link, then you need to click 'Place Inline' next to the photo name once the photo is loaded...it'll insert the pic at the cursor location in the post.

Congratulations on your purchase.

I would remove the braces & obstructions so that you have good access to R & R the new transom wood.

Don't be afraid to remove a few rivets, they are easily replaced.

Thanks for the help with the photos. Apparently the forum doesn't like iPhone photo formats so I had to convert my images to .jpg's. They work now. Here is a photo of how my boat was when I bought it and where it is now. I painted the bottom of the boat a dark green and overlapped the bottom of the sides (just so I don't have the take the boat off the trailer and flip it over again to paint). Not sure what I am going to paint the rest of the boat, but I am worried about the transom right now. Here are a few pics. I want to remove as few of the rivets as possible. Any suggestions as to how to proceed with tear down from here? Thanks!

...I also don't like the way my bunks turned out and will be redoing them also.

Like already stated; a few rivets need to be removed. Very simple process, using a battery drill, so you can control the speed. Sharp point "hole punch". Very small drill bit to make a pilot hole, then step up to the next size (I do not have the diameters at hand), then on to the last drill bit, that will knock the rivet head off before you drill into the secondary attachment or threw the boat shell. Two items that help you - go very, very slow, and dip your bit in Kroll oil, or equivalent. My rivet of choice is 3/16 X 3/8 Brazier Head 1100F Aluminum Solid Rivet. On inside boat - use G - FLEX W/heat gun around the rivets - let sit to cure - (not in SUN LIGHT) - cover rivet with a coating of paint, to protect them from UV rays. This will make that area water tight. You will need to remove the two "pods" on the interior, and the brackets supporting the transome. If the transome brackets are threw bolted (either top or bottom) - these can be replaced with Statnless Steel "round head" bolts with S.S. lock nuts and a neoprene sided S.S. fender washer (neoprene facing boat skin). The contact area under the boat and transome contact area, need to be sanded and cleaned with "muric acid" where the bolts went threw and made contact. Add "loc-tite" to the S.S. threads. Sand aliumium transome plate skin, after old wood is removed. Use 160 grit, or go rougher if needed, to knock off any corrisove acid reaction from hardware or transome wood that was against the transome skin of the boat. Clean with white vinegar, aluminum brightner, then spray with RUSTOLEUM ETCHED PRIMER. Add another coat of exterior aliumium paint (for added protection). Save your old transome for a template. Purchase EXTERIOR ONLY PLYWOOD - NOT TREATED, NOT GROUND CONTACT, NOT ALL WEATHER - EXTERIOR ONLY will have the proper glue for exterior applications. Spend the extra few dollars and get it in a finished coat [this weeks price in VA - $50]. Use a #120 tooth or finer #180 circular saw blade and cut out your new transome. Depends on your old transome thickness, You may need to bond two sections togeather to fill your transome thickness. If you do need to bond two sheets "TIGHTBOND II" is my recommendation. If your two sheets of your transome is a tight wider than the old one, a "DREMAL TOOL" will help bevel the top one inch of your transome, to fit under the boat's top transome bracket. Next is to coat Your NEW TRANSOME for weather before installation. The edges of your new wood, should be clean and tight. You need to devote plenty of attention to the edges, in regards to sealing out moisture.

Thank you for the information and sorry for the delay in acknowledging your response. I plan on starting this project next month and can’t wait to dive right in! The boat and trailer are al registered so I’m just waiting to replace the transom and get a motor together and I’ll be off and cruising! Thanks again for the help and I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions once I start! I’ll post some pics as I go

The trailer is way too short for your boat.
Can you lengthen the tongue?

Yes that’s one of the things I’ve been wanting to address with this project. It’s on my list. Thank you!