Recent content by RivRunR

On my 2000 Lowe 1752 Roughneck I used toilet bowl flange bolts, yes, the ones used to anchor the throne to the floor, by inserting the bolt head into the track at an angle and then turning it sideways. Another option I used was to just cut out a 1/2" section of the track at the stern and then...

Your diagram looks good to me, but I'm no expert. Check where you show "12/14" gauge against this Marine Wire Size Chart, remembering to use the total length of the circuit (+ and -). The circuit breaker should match the total amp draw of all the accessories. I prefer manual reset breakers...

Looks to me like the easiest solution for your LEDs and Navs might be a Bluesea Terminal Mount Fuse Block. Assuming you use the Fuse Block above, just run a positive lead from the Fuse Block to one side of the switch, then continue from the other side of the switch to the positive lead on the...

If there's not already one there, you should have a circuit breaker on the wire between the battery and the switch/breaker panel. Best practice is to put it within 6"-7" of the battery, with an amp rating matching the load on the panel. I prefer manual reset breakers so I know if there's a problem.

The source for those switches is OTRATTW

Maybe one of these?

First you'll have to find out the amp draw of each motor, and the total length of each circuit (both pos & neg cable). Once you've gotten that there's charts that will give you the correct gauge to use.

Some ppl get interference, some don't. The only real way to know is to give it a test run before you do the final install. Johnson Outdoors (Minn Kota) sent me a ferrite choke (for free) when I called them about interference. Word of warning, don't test it too long with the TM out of the...

I got this one about 2 months ago for my Old Town 146k. I've had it on the water 4 or 5 times and I've been really happy with it. Heavy gauge, solid mount. I also got the extension (#5054) for when I fish solo (bow facing aft), because the standard width of the 5053 didn't fit the gunnels...

Incorrect and/or rapidly changing depth readings at speed are usually a problem with the transducer's location. Rooster tails are either incorrect transducer location, or it's just the way it is on some HB transducers (but there are DIY fixes for that). Shut down and simulator are usually a...

Oh, ok...I gotcha now. Seems like the bucket would work, but why not 2 anchors off the bow? Just curious.

You mean like a drift sock? I've always found them to be a PIA...but they can slow your drift. They aren't going to stop you in current. For your cat fishing setup, why not just anchor on both ends, or tie the bow off to the dam if there's something to tie to?

I expect there are dpdt (on/off/on) switches on some panels since that's a standard switch for nav and anchor lights. Not exactly sure what you're asking about on the spotlight, but I don't think that either type of switch could control the hi/low selection. Typically a spotlight will have...

You probably don't need a "positive buss," your fuse panel serves that power distribution function. If you have a combination fuse & switch panel, and you have an accessory (like a fish finder) that you don't want switched, then it's probably easier to just use an in-line fuse and run your...

Agree with what was posted above, TM directly to your deep cycle, and everything else on the cranking battery. TM should run as: battery positive, circuit breaker, TM. The TM negative goes directly to the battery, not to a buss. All your lights, etc., should run: cranking battery positive...