Jonboat Project

I have a 1552 aluminum boat that's in need of some upgrades. Hoping to start a discuss to receive general advice from those who have modified a jonboat before.
First question how can I fix these dents on the front of the boat (see attached photos). Is there a way to reinforce the front area?

Also, I currently run two batteries. One strictly for the big motor. Second battery (blue top 55 Amp hour I believe) runs the trolling motor, small black and white fish finder, bow/stern lights, bilge and aerator. Personally don't care for the FF and would love to upgrade it and the trolling motor. Really want two fish finders. One close to my seat so I can use it for maps while on the motor (see photo highlited area). I would also like a 7"-10" screen for fishing while on the deck controlling the trolling motor. Dont think I'll go the forward facing sonar route at this time, also too much $$. I have the maxxum 55# thrust tm. It does okay, but want to upgrade and get spot lock. Do yall have a favorite option? The ultrex is bad*ss, but might be excessive for a jon boat thats probably only worth 6-8k dollars. My battery really struggles to power the tm during all day trips. I've come to conclusion that I will need to purchase a 100aH battery for all day fishing.

I would greatly appreciate advice on my dilemma. Any insight on who would be willing to work on moding my boat in the north alabama area?

I'm interested in what folks have to say about the dents. I have a couple small hardly noticeable depressions from the dock. As far as reinforcing the bow, probably better to avoid hard bumps into things (something I just might have a little experience doing, haha).

If you can get to both sides they can be hammered out if not real deep dents. Keep in mind that the aluminum on better quality aluminum boats is tempered for strength. It does bend/ dent on a impact, but doesn't like to be bent back back very well ! It often cracks if moved to far that is why you need to consider how deep the dent and how sharp the creases/edges are. Most minor dents can be straightened , but if you can only access one side, then that makes it much more difficult. Often they can be filled with body filler because you can't access the back side. Not many dents that protrude out.....that would certainly make them easier to hammer back in !!

I’m a little surprised that the 55lb is not enough, and stepping higher will add at least one more battery. Recommend looking at the LiFePO4 for the extended lifetime and weight savings over LA or AGM. I don’t recommend tieing your other electronics or accessories to the trolling motor batteries. The trolling motor generates electrical noise that may interfere with your FFs. That may mean a larger starter battery or another electronics battery.

From what I can see of the dents, those are just character scars. I’d live with them.

I agree that a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery seems like your best bet. Prices have come way down, so that's good for you.

I have two batteries: a small AGM Group 24 that is dedicated to the outboard; the other is a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I bought from Amazon. I use that LiFePO4 battery for the trolling motor and all of my accessories, including the fish finder. I have not had issue with electrical interference as FuzzyGrub mentions, but I have heard of that happening to others. Maybe it happens more with certain models of TMs.

As regards TM with Spotlock, there are a couple of ways to get that feature. First, obviously, just buy new or used already equipped that way. Second is to have a suitable TM and retrofit it with a unit like a ProNav controller. That's what I have. I already had my 55# Powerdrive and retrofitted ProNav to it. It works reasonably well. ProNav controllers require an electronically-controlled TM, so you can't just retro-fit it to your mechanically-controlled TM.

For what it's worth, I looked at the ProNav, and it cost more than an OEM I-Pilot Bluetooth upgrade kit. So I went with OEM and am very happy with it.

Maybe the ProNav is better in certain ways?

I really like your boat!

For the battery, I strongly recommend you look up "TimeUSB" on Amazon.

Very good batteries for about $200, not much more than an AGM battery, but the charge lasts longer and their lifetime is about double. Very good investment, and you probably won't have to worry about your TM dying halfway through the trip.

You're just going to get more dents if you actually use it, so I would just leave them alone.

As someone else said, character marks.

Thank you all for the replies! The first couple of scratches (around the nose of bow) occurred when trailering the boat. It took me a few times to learn not to back the trailer so far into the water. Now I lower the trailer in enough to get the bunks wet, and then pull up to where the side rail (bunks?) are more than 3/4 out of the water. The big dent (zoomed in photo) happened last weekend. A storm abrewed fairly quick while the wife and I were out on the water. I was pulling up to the dock and a wind gust pushed the bow into the dock pretty darn hard. Ticked me off me, but stuff happens and we weren't injured so perspective right!?

The maxxum trolling motor has served me well. However, fighting current/wind/recreation boats on the main river channel has swayed me to upping the # thrust power. Also having spot lock/Ipilot would help. Sometimes the maxxum will change directions (in continuous mode) when I'm not paying attention and dang near throw me out of the boat. I may focus on adding a fish finder at the starboard gunnel and the bow first. Fish with it for a while and look into upgrading the trolling motor next year. Getting a new battery with higher amp hour would be a quick fix in terms of the tm dying on us while out fishing for 6-8 hours. Thanks for the battery suggestions as I will look into them. Any opinions on fish finders (brands/transducers) and setting them up with my hull configuration? I'd really like a ff close enough to control and have a good view of water depth while sitting in the rear seat and using the big motor. And one ff on the bow while fishing with the trolling motor. So maps, down/side imaging at the "helm" and a ff with down/side/ 2d sonar on the bow.

TIA

Great minds think alike. I use the exact same gauge when backing the trailer in - side bunks 3/4 out of the water.

I agree with others about not worrying too much about the dents. You could put something like a piece of dark colored 1" thick dense foam across that front area. Like a bumper.

I use a Hummingbird Helix 7 with Down Imaging and Navionics charts. I don't use the down imaging. I use the charts and 2D sonar a lot. I suspect my fishing methods are different than yours. I do a lot of trolling in deep water and most of the time am not even showing the bottom. I like my Helix 7 but to be fair, I have not tried other brands so can't make an honest comparison. All I know is if I don't catch, it must be the fish finders fault! haha.

thill said:

For what it's worth, I looked at the ProNav, and it cost more than an OEM I-Pilot Bluetooth upgrade kit. So I went with OEM and am very happy with it.

Maybe the ProNav is better in certain ways?

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I don't recall seeing the i-Pilot upgrade kit for the Powerdrive back when I was looking (2022). A quick perusal of the Minn Kota web site shows that ProNav and the i-Pilot Bluetooth are very similar. Since "the deed is done" for me, it's all a moot point.

I use a Humminbird Helix 7. Down scan, side scan, 2D sonar, mapping. I really rely on the 2D sonar. Sometimes I think I that I could have saved the money and just bought a straight 2D sonar unit. As it was, I got the Helix 7 on sale for $600. I do like the display I can see in bright daylight.

I think most fishfinders are going to have transom mount transducers that will give you the "under the transom" view you want. My trolling motor has a US2 transducer built in, and I'm considering adding a small inexpensive 2D display up front for use when I'm up on the casting deck.

Since my Helix is "networkable" I could add another Helix display up front and just use the transducer on the transom to drive the whole thing. But that's more capability than I'd likely use, and more cost.

I highly recommend a trolling motor with gps. Having spot lock/anchor lock has been a game changer for our river fishing. The heading modes are great too. I’ll never buy another bow trolling motor without it.

FuzzyGrub said:

I highly recommend a trolling motor with gps. Having spot lock/anchor lock has been a game changer for our river fishing. The heading modes are great too. I’ll never buy another bow trolling motor without it.

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Yes....never knew how great spot lock was until I picked up a motor with it. Having bad shoulders makes pulling an anchor a tough job. Not only does the motor hold position, with a couple button pushes I can move from one spot to another without wrestling that anchor. I will never be without it again !

Something to keep in mind while looking at FF and spot lock: Spot Lock works best with a Humminbird FF. IIRC, with a Humminbird, it keeps you in a 2-3ft circle; without is something like a 6ft circle. Doesn't sound like much of a difference until you are anchored up next to a bridge pylon in heavy winds. Then, it makes all the difference in the world.

My folks have Spot Lock on their pontoon with a Lowrance Hook 5. It works well enough when fishing brush piles in open water but it's a real bugger up in the trees and around pylons.

Bantou said:

Something to keep in mind while looking at FF and spot lock: Spot Lock works best with a Humminbird FF. IIRC, with a Humminbird, it keeps you in a 2-3ft circle; without is something like a 6ft circle. Doesn't sound like much of a difference until you are anchored up next to a bridge pylon in heavy winds. Then, it makes all the difference in the world.

My folks have Spot Lock on their pontoon with a Lowrance Hook 5. It works well enough when fishing brush piles in open water but it's a real bugger up in the trees and around pylons.

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Spot lock is built into my trolling motor itself, it has no bearing on my FF. There may be other types, but my MK power drive works great..even hold in a 2' chop

airshot said:

Spot lock is built into my trolling motor itself, it has no bearing on my FF. There may be other types, but my MK power drive works great..even hold in a 2' chop

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Same with mine -- also a Power Drive. It is not networked with the HB Helix. I don't use it a lot but have been impressed with the spot lock. I realize I'm behind the newest tech with these things. Haha.

airshot said:

spot lock is built into my trolling motor itself, it has no bearing on my FF. There may be other types, but my MK power drive works great..even hold in a 2' chop

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I'll have to go back and look at my manual. I remember it saying something about the radius changing with a HB FF, but I don't remember the specifics. Could also be that it's running on an older software version. They bought the motor a couple of years ago and, to my knowledge, it's never been updated.

LDUBS said:

Same with mine -- also a Power Drive. It is not networked with the HB Helix. I don't use it a lot but have been impressed with the spot lock. I realize I'm behind the newest tech with these things. Haha.

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More me is not updated to the best of my knowledge. My MK is a 2013 and the previous owner never mentioned anything about an upgrade. MT Low range is also a 2013 with a north America card inserted. The motor and fish finder are not connected....good thing because I would be totally lost with that.

If you have a Minn Kota with Spot Lock, add the Position puck, and it does a MUCH better job, especially if you put the nose of the boat into the wind/current before engaging. That way, it doesn't clock around.

Pretty sure we have a position puck. No telling if it is hooked up right or not though. Dad isn't the most tech savvy of individuals. I haven't had a chance to go look at the manual yet. It isn't in the current manual but we both remember it saying something about increased accuracy using a HB FF