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I've always been told to keep the nozzle in contact with the fill neck of a fuel tank while filling to prevent build-up of static charge. As for grounding the tank, as long as you run a wire from the clip on the fuel sending unit to a surface anywhere on the boat, the tank will be grounded...

Yeah, that was a dilemma when I first started putting the whole thing together, how to tie the bars together. On the backside of the pivot block, where those 2 pivoting center bars are located, I had to gouge out with my grinder, to give me enough room to access to the fit-up where the 1/4"...

I try to find a tree I can climb and get about 10 ft off the ground. Then locate a part of the trunk where it will naturally angle the camera toward the ground. On one of the areas I manage, I've gotten footage of several interlopers/trespassers, and none of them ever look up where the camera...

Thanks! As for how the bars pivot, the shaft goes through the pivot block, and the 4 inside movable bars are attached to that. Because of the shape of the pump intake, I had to set back for the outer-most 2 bars, so, those are attached to the outer movable bars with a short length of rod...

yeah, the whole reason they have gone to these unvented tanks is because they are worried about fuel vapors from boat tanks harming the environment. Never mind the fuel vapor that escapes into the atmosphere when vehicles are filling up, much less when a tanker comes into port and offloads...

Since the thought of getting a rock in my pump has always made me nervous on those inland rivers, I decided it was time for a heavier duty grate with closer spacing on the bars. Not only that, but a stomp grate. I had a machinist make the pivot block, from stainless. The OEM model was...

Seems like that would be weak, and could break if it impacts something, allowing it to pass through. Also, the problem arises in how to modify/convert that into a stomp grate. The longitudinal bars swing up and down and allows stuff to clear. Rabbit hutch wire seems like it would be impossible...

I was previously running with 6 bars, and the plan was to add 3 more. I'm really hoping those extra 3 bars don't affect it much. The main objective is to keep oyster shells or rocks out of the pump and the opening between the existing 6 bars is just too wide, being roughly 3/4- 1" inch spacing...

Yeah, I was doing some reading on the shape of the tines after posting this. According to what I've read, the backside should have more bevel, the front should be slightly round. Guess I need to re-shape them before putting it all together. A little re-shaping won't hurt to reduce the weight...

The existing tines I'm using have been ground with a knife edge on the bottom side, and a round radius on the top side. I was previously running with 6 tines, spaced about 3/4" apart, and it didn't affect performance. I'm adding 3 more, and have shaped them to the same pattern as the others.

How close together can you space the tines of the intake grate without blocking flow and affecting performance? Right now I'm in the process of re-building my grate, using 1/4" X 3/4" stainless flat bar, and they are currently laid out to be spaced with 1/4" between them. I have heard of people...

Ideally, you want the pump set in the boat so the only thing sticking out is the steering nozzle. Shifting it this much forward will have an effect on porpoising. If not, the spacers will most definitely take it out.

Moving the pump/engine forward seems like a lot of work. Let's try a quick fix and see if that helps. First thing, I would add some support brackets for that ride plate, as it does look like it's just hanging off, with not much support. Between the brackets and those rear mounting holes is...

I would advise against putting oil in the cap for the stator. There are electrical components in there. If you have a stator and flywheel assembly disassembled, it won't hurt to spray a light coat of sea foam or other protective coating on the components. But anything more than that may cause...

I was able to take the porpoising out of my boat by making some spacers out of 3/16" plate. They are about 1X1" square, and they have a 3/8" hole in the center for the mounting bolt to pass through. This set of spacers fits between the ride plate and the ride plate mount, on the rear end. That...

I would think that would be adequate to support the weight. As long as it's tied in correctly to the hull, it should be good to go.

I concur with cedar river scooter about reinforcing the engine well with heavier aluminum plate. I did the same with my boat, using 1/4" plate in the engine well. Especially in my case, with that heavy 4 stroke, as repeatedly hitting waves, etc would probably cause the boat to have a 'belly'...

I'm not sure how much protection 1/8" would provide, other than from simple abrasion. But it would most definitely be easier to form and work with than thicker stuff. As for my idea of welding threaded inserts, I still believe that is the best route, even if it is more time consuming. Bolting...

If you think that's insane, try pricing a bamboo fly rod. Over a thousand dollars for some of them. :shock: :shock: :shock:

It's always easier to do a job if you have the right tool. But sometimes you don't and you have to improvise. Or every once in a while, you make your own tooling, as I have done for various tasks involving my jet boat. That said, like Johnny, until last year, I was a complete novice at opening...