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Not at all. It’s a Vmax Model LFP24-1265 and I ordered it from Walmart. $269 with free shipping. Edit: I transcribed the weight in the ad incorrectly. It’s not 14.5 lbs……It’s 15.5 lbs.

I don’t have the 65 yet…….its on order and won’t arrive until the end of this month. It will be my first dive into lithium TM batteries.

According to just about all the marketing hype…..I mean literature……….lol….it’s not really double…but it is better. If you are one to follow the manufacturers recommendations for discharging, you will get about 30 percent more usable power.…….but boat anglers do not typically follow the...

I got free delivery but it’s not coming until the 28’th. Gives me time to find a new onboard charger…….I may get a ”bells and whistles” charger that has Bluetooth and an application to read the battery charging progress on my phone. I’m lazy like that……lol Saves me from having to go out in the...

I took the plunge today and ordered a 65 amp Lifepo4 12 v for my MotorGuide xi3. Been using a 92 amp AGM that weighs in at 63 lbs. The Lifepo4 will be 14.5 lbs. Need to upgrade my charger as my old Minn Kota Precision doesn’t do Lithium.

It’s the same here. I use them in other places but not on my boat. My starting battery is AGM and hooked up to my outboard for charging. My TM battery is an AGM 92 amp and for that I have an onboard Minn Kota single bank charger. All are getting long in the tooth though……My TM battery is 64...

If you read the battery literature itself you will see that most list cycles as the life of the battery. It’s not totally apples to apples but you can kind of view a cycle as a use and recharge. (Duty cycle) AGM batteries will be listed as 400/500 cycles typically. That cycle is at 30 percent...

Ah……..I thought you meant a motor wing. I have actually seen these on line………interesting bit of engineering.

Just keep in mind that if you are always dinging your prop………the aluminum prop takes the brunt of it. If it’s stainless…..your gear case takes the brunt…….. That being said, stainless is thinner but more rigid, so it flexes less which gets you around 25 more rpm’s. Because the blades are...

I think it would create drag……

Mine has hex head bolts on the inside with large flat washers. There is silicone sealant under the washers. The motor bracket side has locking nuts and small flat washers. It came set up from the dealer.

Ah……I didn’t see in th the pics that it was all drilled out. I was thinking it was in great condition. I myself have a thing for those old runabouts. When they are finished well they are a joy to see……

I would restore that boat a bit and use it like it is. The covered bow is nice………..If it’s because you want a trolling motor on the bow, put a transom mounted one………It’s a nice classic looking boat…..in good shape. A little sanding, paint/polish…carpet and seats…..and you have a classic Sunday...

Before you do anything with raising you need to know how it’s operating. There is a recommended rpm range for the motor at wide open throttle. If your skeg Is too deep you are probably under revving and creating too much drag. That is bad for your outboard. You should figure out what your rpm’s...

My Duranautic has holes for that purpose. Im glad it does…..because I fish in brackish and salt water.

https://www.marathonboat.com/

Airshot…..you are correct. Old two strokes produced much more torque. In an old two stroke both strokes produce power. In the modern 4 stroke, two strokes produce power and two do not.

Now I have to wonder where you were when you thought of this 🤣 Anyhow……that’s some good thinking.

Doyou have a tachometer to tell you the rpm? It could simply be that you don’t have the right prop pitch for the load……..knowing what rpm you are getting would tell you that……

Since you are replacing wood and coverings, have you considered gojng with composite lumber bunks? No coverings required………..I just did this with my trailer and used Ultimate Bunks……