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Remove that center spine and do all kind of sideway slides in the creeks! The good ole days! Enjoy!

You can mark the outside of the hull with a grease pencil. If the hole is under a deck or seat, yes, you still have to remove it, if it's not, you saved yourself a ton of work.

2 or 3 horses with a couple of 2"X4" run across them will easily hold the boat and weight, assuming you built your horses correctly. I've done it, never had an issue. But if someone feels it's not a good solution, feel free to drop her in the water and wait. The problem there is, if you have...

It's only missing a thingamajiggy and a duhicky

That's exactly what I was thinking.

Take the boat out of the water, dry the outside of the hull extensively. Once done with that, fill the hull to the waterline with water and watch to see what gets wet.

Please read my , "LMAO, don't take advice from me." as a joke, I know I can get a fella in trouble.

I had a 15 on a boat rated for 7.5, tore up the bow after pounding too many 2 footers in a tiny boat. On a calm lake you'll have no problem. If you get into a wreck, drop the engine to the bottom, unless they recover it, you're off the hook. LMAO, don't take advice from me.

I admittedly know very little about welding, but that looks more like soldering then a weld to me. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I have personal experience with a 7.5 and a 9.9. The 7.5 was a single cyl and the 9.9 was a twin. If you are by yourself, assuming a normal size person the 6 might get it done for you. But the 9.9 will easily get it done. If you ever plan on going with 2 people, forget the 6. Even though a good...

I 2nd wider, you want the greatest amount of stability.

I'm thinking it's part of the build. Have you ever looked or taken pic's before?

As above, if you want to putt putt to a spot, fine. You'll never make plane with a 6 and two people onboard. If just you, you still might have to trim it down or shift some weight around. The 9.9 is a better option and you could expect speed in the 20 mph range. If portability is key suffer with...

I 2nd the going with a 24V vs a 12V set up.

It's a small engine to crank so I don't think it matter all that much, however as mentioned above, go with heavier stuff. If you had a real long run you'd want something think for sure, but I've got cheap assed jumper cables that feel like wire hager.

Could you not just have a welder weld a piece of aluminum in place where it traditionally scrapes?

Music is always nice, however you need a good set up to hear it over a roaring engine. Quality often lacks as the sound unlike a house or even car goes out into the atmosphere. The last boat I had came with a basic radio and 2 6.5" speakers, it worked for all of one season. The boat I am looking...

We were refacing our house at one point and we wanted to take down the existing aluminum awning and replace it with a stick built one that would better match the new brick face. The contractor told us we needed a permit to remove the old and add a new awning. We went ahead and did the work...

Am I the only one who though we were going to be talking fast electric motors? I was ready for a racing thread on FAST Minnkota's.