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Costco and Sam's still have them for $5. That alone just about makes the trip worth it for me, delicious. I've seen them off and on at Wally world's deli, but I think they're getting $7 for them. Boggles my mind as well that they can sell them so cheap when a sack of chicken scratch is like...

I just got in from a fishing trip on Sunday, have only been out a handful of times this year. The plan was to stop in Des Moines Wed-Fri to fish and meet up with family in Minneapolis Sat-Sun. Fishing was really slow on Wednesday afternoon with showers off and on. Thursday morning, definitely...

I'd try to fix it, personally. That lip sticking up is going to catch any trash in the bilge, and also cause water to run out and away from the drain channel into your foam, which is what you're trying to avoid. Additionally, sometimes a dent like that can cause some odd handling problems at...

If there's a fuel level sending unit in there, it likely needs to be grounded to the cranking battery to work properly. Otherwise, yes, likely a static ground.

Yes, large flange aluminum pop rivets are what you need. 3/16 shank most likely. I do not recommend steel due to dissimilar metal corrosion, and they're harder to fasten. For use in the hull, you can also by closed end rivets that will not leak water like a regular pop rivet.

That's the most likely culprit right there. For something like this, I would recommend placing an ammeter in series and begin disconnecting the circuit in chunks. Pull the power feed for any accessories off the battery and isolate the outboard. If the draw goes away, disconnect the outboard and...

You really have no choice. Assuming the outboard is solidly bolted to the transom, ground will always find a way from the engine block to the hull. Many outboards even have ground leads that tie each component of them together if they're isolated in rubber.

I have used regular zip ties many times and usually don't have issues with leaks as long as the hose is a good fit to start with. The clamp really shouldn't be the only thing sealing the hose, they're mainly just an assurance to keep it from being pushed off. A regular zip tie tends to snug...

Seems like flipping the over would be worth a try. Maybe assembled wrong from the factory.

I have thought about it many times. I have one of those Amazon Gopro knockoffs but have never used it. Crappy internet was a big hindrance for me in the past. Not an issue now with fiber brought to us by the power company.

From what I have seen, many manufacturers use carpeted plywood for that opening, so if you do hit it while loading, it won't damage the boat, and if you're running down any wet gravel roads it'll help keep the tire from slinging grit onto the boat.

If the lights are on and the trolling motor seems to be online then that pretty much eliminates any sort of power supply issue. I'm not sure what model you have, I do know that on the Terrova and Powerdrive, if you disassemble the head, the wires for the motor can be disconnected there for...

I could certainly see the big wake boat owners that might burn 20-30 gallons in a day hesitating a little bit. Gas is still cheap-ish here at $3.09 currently. Takes me about 3.5 gallons in the truck and close to that much in the boat to fish for an afternoon, not too expensive as far as hobbies...

I converted a 9.8 Merc to electric start a few years ago. On that motor everything was different, so I found a cheap donor from a pontoon that had everything I needed. In that boat, I had a single group 29 deep cycle for everything. When the outboard was running full tilt, voltage would...

Better viewing angle to start with. Can flip a bait underhand quite easily, and land a fish without working around the gunnel. Smaller jons won't see as much benefit since the gunnels aren't very tall to start with, but in a bigger deep-v style boat, it feels like they are always in the way when...

Grab an extra battery and a 200 watt solar panel. Swap it when needed, the solar panel should charge it up in without issue during a day's worth of sunlight.

There's a whole bunch of boats out there with the chargers mounted in the bilge right next to the tank. If it's installed right there should never be a spark from the charger.

If you're premixing for an older outboard, I'd say you're safe. That chainsaw oil is likely quite a bit better than whatever was around when that outboard was new. I wouldn't run it in anything with oil injection, oils not designed for injection won't flow through the screens/filters and you'll...

If they are all seized, I'd say you're best off stripping the ignition parts and lower units for resale, the rest can go to the melting pot. No doubt you could probably make a buck or two, but it's a significant time investment, and requires a lot of real estate to store the stuff in the mean...

I'd cut your pieces, glue and screw them together, and let it cure then remove the screws. Install it in the boat, drill all your through holes and do any final trimming/fitting. Then seal it.