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Mine is an old fishing camp rental boat. I did give it a nice paint job a few years back, but it's an old rental boat. I can ground it, beach it, bounce off rocks. Let a slimy pike flop around and rinse it off with lake water. I sure admire the new fancy boats and maybe in retirement..... But...

Mix a good dose of seafoam in the fuel and run it in a barrel. Probably just needs cleaned out. Those motors if taken care of will last a lifetime and half a lifetime if abused!

You could probably run carpet, mouse and all through that motor.

You'll get there once you catch a case of twofootitis. I went from an 11ft to a 14 to a 16.... I'm holding for now ..

Agree older than 86 not that it matters. Boat like this is a blank canvas for whatever a handy guy can imagine.

I was going to suggest paint stripper but you seem to be making decent progress. Stripping a boat is a time consuming process 💪

Weight capacity of that boat is 325. You, paddle, anchor, life vest and some fishing gear are at that already. Might want to put that thing in the water if you haven't already and see how sketchy it feels before investing in a motor. I hope I'm wrong but I believe it will feel tippy.

Like mentioned, it's all guesswork until you get rpm reading. But my years on the water are telling me that 15 pushing two solid men on a narrow boat ain't horrible. Put a 150lb guy and a kid up front and you'll get into the 20's.

I've taken both direct and indirect advice from Pappy and I am appreciative of the knowledge shared.

This is how I did mine and it still looks good to me. The paint is holding up well, at the time I was hoping for a smoother shiny coat but that's more about my technique and how cold it was in my garage. 16' Naden resurrection.

Have you forgotten the plug yet? If not, I'm not sure you can claim doofus status, I'll have to check the manual. 😅. A tinnie, especially with no deck, battery or trolling motor up front can be a handful by yourself at low speeds. The easiest solution is take a fishing buddy. That slows the...

I use a Danforth anchor and like it for it's light weight. If the bottom is sand, muck or stones it works well, if it's bedrock like some of the shield lakes I fish, it will just slide. There is a size chart on their website.

Good luck and let us know. I've seen where using a jack plate allows for running the anticavitation plate slightly higher than the hull bottom.

Removing a bench can cause a hull to flex more than it was meant to. That being said, if all you ever do is travel at displacement speeds (not planing) and 6 HP or under, I say go for it. Not pounding through whitecaps. If rivets are leaking, rebuck them. You can get a tool for this but all I do...

Piece of PVC corner/baseboard trim from home depot. Just bow it to fit and glue or staple it to the board

Nice work!

You can polish scratched and gouged aluminum with a wheel. The sanding is to smooth out the scratches and gouges so it looks more like a mirror and less like a polished turd. Lol.

No, not enough to worry about. The stability, stern lift, no cavitation while turning and ability to cruise on plane at a lower speed all outweighed top speed. I've had 14 footers that wouldn't plane without one

Had several 14' boats and ended up with hydrofoils on them all. At this horsepower level it doesn't matter which one you use. I've used both stingray and doel fin with equal results. They do everything it says on the package. Stern lift, ability to plane at lower speeds, eliminate porposing...

On a flat spot like this it's no big deal to buff the JB Weld off with a wire wheel if it's ever to be welded. On a seam or lap joint such as a rib or strake (where it should be welded anyway) it is more of a pain as it's hard to get all the product out of the joint and it does fizzle up when...