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Thill.......look two posts up!!!

You are pretty safe purchasing any outboard manufacturer's fuel line. They have a vested interest after all ! Not inexpensive however compared to the generic aftermarket.

The gray or silver line that had the most issues had a clear inner liner in it. Even the primer bulbs were coming apart internally and blocking flow.

Depends on the vintage of the new in box engine you are purchasing. If it is 3 or more years old then simply change the line. Either way the fuel line is not a deal breaker....if you suspect it change it.

No....not supposed to move very much. It is just an idle rpm adjustment. Almost sounds like it is doing what it s supposed to do. but...... On the '89 model year engines you have a throttle cable. You can separate the joint where the cable moves the throttle advance assembly. Do this and see if...

Yep, you do. That part should not impede the throttle at all but it will keep the flywheel from moving if you have your throttle advanced too far or are in gear vs being in neutral. You also have an idle speed adjustment knob on the end of your throttle handle. Try backing that out a bit and...

The unique thing about you creating a tether is that it will probably need to be done by anchoring to the transom.........requiring holes.....which is exactly what you would be doing by utilizing the anchor holes provided in the brackets. With these holes and thru-bolts there is no need for a...

That is simply the previous owner giving you the parts necessary to thru-bolt your engine properly on to your transom the same way he apparently had it on his. You have the bolt, large inner flat washer, and the nut for each side.

Lets call the knob with the spring under it the mixture screw because...well... thats what it is. Believe I asked you to richen it (counter clockwise) 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Lets do this again and start the engine. This should tell us that the carb is probably dirty but again, one step at a time...

No need to change anything before it gets going. Are you still listening to suggestions from other sites? When you pump the bulb you are filling the fuel bowl. When the engine starts the fuel pump should take over and do this for you. Filling the fuel bowl is all the engine should require...

First off......welcome to Tin Boats and the engine side of things. A 1990 15hp is just about bulletproof. You will spend far less on getting it running (carb rebuild, fuel lines, gear oil, new water pump, and a good cleaning and greasing of all the fittings, etc than you will by spending $2000...

Yep in this case it does indeed make a difference. What you have in the top front is an idle air bleed. Just leave that alone. Back along the left or starboard side of the carburetor will be the idle mixture adjustment screw. Will have a spring around it and be behind that vertical rod. That...

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=25&model=E25TELCCA&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=CARBURETOR Item number 1, 29,....... and 17 is the seal that is probably dried up and crumbled away by now. Red in color.

You have an electric primer on this engine instead of a choke system. This requires a different starting procedure. Pump the bulb until firm, turn the key to the on position and push the key in and simultaneously turn the key to start. When the key switch is pushed in you are activating the...

You cannot do a full cleaning with fingers crossed and using brake clean or carb cleaner. If you have a passageway (such as the small bent idle lift tube) that is completely plugged with varnish or debris the carb cleaner will NOT clean it out. That stuff will only clean out varnish from a...

Thanks for getting back to us and........"You're welcome"

Different compression gauges read totally different from each other. Secondly, you do not need to open the throttle to check compression. Any good gauge that has a check valve in the line will give you an accurate compression reading with the throttle closed. Your fuel pumps on this engine...

The welch plug takes about 30 seconds to remove. Carefully drill a 1/8" hole in the center and then use a punch to pry it out. Simple. To re-install place it back in position and use a socket that is about half the diameter of the plug and tap it back down. Does not take much so start gently...

One of the main reasons to pull the welch plug is that when you either shoot carb cleaner or brake fluid up the small tube you may send debris up that tube. That debris can go either way. Towards the idle air bleed or towards the calibration holes under the welch plug. Do not buy the China carb...

Did you remove the welch plug at the top of the carburetor? That needs to be removed if doing the job as thoroughly as you want it done. You can run a piece of copper wire or a tag wire up through the small idle lift tube to make sure it is clean and clear.