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A good budget wire I have used for similar purposes is booster cables. Harbor freight in the States or princess auto in Canada are good sources for these on sale. I run tiller boats but like to have the battery/batteries up front for weight distribution. I run the booster cables (clamps removed)...

I really love these hulls for no reason other than how they look. If it's in good shape it's worth fixing up. No it'll never be worth a pile of money no matter how much you spend but who cares. As long as you intend to keep it and it suits your requirement for fishing. Good luck with your...

Good for you for helping out a fellow fisherman. Those "good deals" are only good if you know how to fix stuff! Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

I'd be looking on eBay or local hoarder style marine repair guy. Motor 25 years old, there's bound to be a parts motor around. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Where I fish it's rocky and I beach my boat often. This year I upgraded my fish finder and while removing the old transducer I noticed it was pretty beat up. While I've been lucky and haven't damaged a transducer, it does get bumped and tilts up. After searching, I found many examples of custom...

Inside diameter Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

I bolt my motor on. Confidence and not having to worry about a clamp coming loose. Always play with the height before bolting, you may be able to raise the motor a bit and gain some speed up top. I use shims in 1/2" increments to try this. Go up until the prop cavitates. Do turns as well to...

Some outboards will only allow a little throttle movement unless it's in gear, so ensure that's not the case before taking apart. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

The above link is a good thread. Both methods will work, spraying the aerosol into the carb of a running motor, or mixing it with fuel and running it. I've done this to a couple motors. Most recently a 1969 evinrude 9.5. it had been used as a kicker motor for years and then sat unused for a few...

A deep cycle battery will have plenty enough jam to start a small motor. Recommend a group 27 or 31. As for simple decks, it can be this easy. https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=480883 Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

It looks good and will probably be good but I always like to prove something out before drilling holes. I use a shim, piece of wood, under the clamp to space it up and water test it first before permanently mounting. Like I said, it'll likely be fine but you'll hate it if it cavitates on the...

Perhaps they are having their own boats made, maybe offshore, and resurected the gamefisher name for marketing Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Sears sold gamefisher boats and motors Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

That's a great illustration! Thanks for adding that. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

JB Weld says safe for aluminum on the package. I wouldn't prime it because then your product is just stuck to the primer and not the substrate. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Good idea, hope this is what you had in mind. https://youtu.be/puM-lEK2DM8 Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

New motors are heavy. My old Johnson 35 pull start short shaft weighs in at about 115. The new Yamaha 25 is light as all get out but that hasn't found its way to the 30's yet. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Sticking a pebble sized piece on the outside and flatten a bit. The putty is fairly sticky at this point so I just stick it on and leave it for a minute. Same on the inside. After it starts to set, a moistened finger is used to smooth it down and make sure the edges adhere well. This will harden...

I like the JB Weld steelstik. I keep a tube in my tackle box. It will harden enough in 5 minutes that you can do shore repairs during a trip. Slice a small amount off and knead it until it's one color. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Using a wire wheel on a drill, the holes and area are cleaned down to bare aluminum Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk