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I adjusted the trailer so the boat is level side to side and level bow to stern on across the top of the bench I was building the deck flush with. Any difference to that while you're on the water will be changing constantly with each wave or disturbance.

Don't need them with a flat bottomed boat - dunno if that's what you're working with or not.

My trolling motor has a gouge in a blade courtesy of being out there in the dark. Yakkin' it is a good idea.

Try one of those small bungee cargo net/bags. https://www.amazon.com/TENACHI-Universal-Storage-Organizer-15-7X9-8/dp/B07G4785LN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bungee+pocket&qid=1562934604&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I'm pushing the noise envelope to 9:30pm...not too bad for summertime but I'm not going any farther, neighbors have been great thus-far. The seat came from a shop I found on Ebay that had one listed in the dimensions I needed. I messaged them and asked about the color options and they...

I do that all the time fishing with my son. You can get a quick-mount plate from Minn Kota that lets you easily disconnect the trolling motor provided you have it wired using a plug. Makes it very easy to share a trolling motor between two boats - buy the TM sized for the bigger boat and be a...

Well, hatches are fitted, hinges still need to be riveted down, but everything lines up. Bow cap corners are rounded, drilled and ready for rivets. Cut outs are drilled for the corner nav lights. Predrilled the holes for the trolling motor mounting plate - all part of last night's...

If you're trying to keep costs down I'd be looking for a used one, 798's were very reliable and had the features you're looking for and can be found for under $300. There is a Facebook group of Humminbird and Minn Kota owners selling/buying used equipment, that's where I found both my...

Not my first choice of alloy, but I got the remnants of larger sheets at a price less than what I could have gotten 5052 for. This alloy would not be a good choice for salt water for sure with its higher copper content. It's a PITA to bend as well. I used .032" 6061 for all the vertical panels...

Not really, it's a damed up mountain stream that would only have been 10 feet wide or so naturally. Almost impossible to know where it meandered through the area.

If I recall correctly the bottom 4" of foam are required by USCG standards to be a closed-cell hydrocarbon stable type, but that doesn't mean it won't take on water if left submerged in standing water.

Damn it...I'd seen that too and I meant to do that in this build...oh well, if I'm ever dumb enough to do a boat #3 I'll try better to keep that in mind! At least I can add it to the port-side front area that isn't done at all yet!

Finished the vertical sidewalls for the below deck compartments and poured what foam I had left in the rod-tube area: From a square center line aligned to the factory finished edge of the sheet I took measurements every 2" working my way up the deck, transcribed the marks to the sheet and...

You'd need a thousand of them. It was all forested land that they flooded to make the lake without felling any of the trees.

I feel like I recall having a side conversation about that place with you...very glad to hear you're ok, that place is trolling motor only for me. That's Winchester Lake in NWCT for anyone in this area. There are maps produced by the state indicating there is semi submerged timber on the west...

Luck...be thankful. They're as slimy as pike with more teeth to go with it.

Preferably before - you want it as close to the step down to the new wire diameter as possible, same logic as putting the main fuse block as close to the battery as possible. As Dale said, it protects the wire from burning, so to do so you want it as far upstream on the circuit as you can place it.

Continuing from cedar's post every time you distribute the power to a different group of wires you would need a new fuse sized appropriately for the wire you're using. The distribution block serves this purpose, taking the heavier incoming wire from the battery and then fusing the source of all...

I know everyone wants their charger in a compartment tucked out of the way - but I wonder if the trapped condensation in these areas are what cause all these different brands of chargers to fail prematurely. Perhaps mounting to a protected external area (under the steering wheel perhaps?) might...

Not PB, just best out of CT in 2019. It's been a really off year here.