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Did you get into the bow section at all with this? My brother has a 14' alumacraft but the bow section appears to be 2 sheets that terminate and are joined by that keel section. I was thinking he should just G-flex it without the re-rivet effort as it seems more like the seams are weeping than...

+1 to the millennium as well, I got a pair of the B200's replacing the type of plastic/cushion seats you have in the pictures and I'm much happier with them.

You could always wind them around an empty line spool and hold them in place with rubber bands. I did that with mojo rigs (finesse carolina rigs), it seemed to be less of a nuisance to tie on a whole new leader with those than to fuss on the water trying to pin the cylindrical weight in place...

Last call - off to recycling this weekend

Hondas are fantastic motors. The age of that would not be a concern to me, but small boats are finicky with additional weight. It won't amount to much difference vs. another 15, but knowing you could have held out for a 25 you would have missed out on a noticeable amount of speed.

Hondas run on the heavy side, the 15hp from that year weighs as much as my 25hp mercury, though I believe the Hondas were 4 strokes whereas I'm making the comparison to a 2 stroke.

As far as the parts for the carb, look to boats.net at any of the 25hp motors. Look for the cam style engagement of the throttle plate - any of those carbs will fit.

Mine was originally a tiller setup - there are a number of components to be replaced to convert it, not just the plate on the side of the cowl. The cams on the side of the motor and the rod linkages were all different. I found someone parting a motor out on Ebay and picked the parts up there...

It's a straight forward mod, nothing is different other than the carb, I've done it, you get more power and it idles just fine because it doesn't know it wasn't a 25hp to start with, but you go from 18 to 25...not 40. If your boat can take it go for the 40.

I was going to say the same thing - that motor alone is worth more than the rig & trailer in the current market. So few manufacturers are able to deliver new motors that something only a few years old is basically gold. NADA on that motor is $2,000 - $2,700 depending on the sub-model and I...

Connecticut

Original quicksilver part # is 48-76232A-4 15P Fits both my '88 2 stroke Mercury 60hp and my 2020 Yamaha F60, both of which have 13-spline shafts. Runs 5300 RPM on the F60 with a light load in the boat. Uses a pressed in hub. $100 + actual shipping cost to you.

IN

Try the heat sink compound, it's cheap, plus it is possible you're not getting sufficient contact between the backside of the rectifier and the block to dissipate the heat, but I think you're more likely seeing an intermittent issue with the stator taking out the rectifier(s) as you've...

Sorry - you're right, looked too quickly. The axle would be sitting deeper below the trailer frame. I would be concerned you'd hit that crossmember with your 'V''ed hull on certain boat ramps.

I would add rollers to the two cross-members closest to the roller up by the bow (not to the aft-most cross member)

Screwing to the bench is liable to pull free. Even if it doesn't you run the risk of cracking the aluminum as the seat strains and flexes the benchtop. There are ways to support the backside, but they're all more work than it's worth IMO unless you're trying to add a pedestal. I've used the...

I had to add aluminum flanges to the decking surface to have something mount the console to, they run up the inside face of the vertical side surfaces of the console so you don't see them in the pictures. If you're going to go trying to fabricate something try window screening as a forming...

I'm not beholden to the console, but it's got a nice low profile, and I think it'll be faster to bury it in fiberglass than it will be to fabricate something entirely new. I'm definitely dumping the original steering wheel in the process one way or the other. I need to add on a protrusion for a...

Check out my Tracker III build - I used Rich's idea for flaring thin walled PVC using a heat gun and a wine bottle and they came out great.