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Looking quickly those types of parts are still available from places like marineengine.com etc...even if you don't want to be paying retail prices you can use their site to lookup the OEM part numbers and find them from a scrapper on eBay.

I'd go with the 1442 over the 1436 if you're trying to get in tight places - the extra displacement won't come with much extra weight so you'll ride shallower in the water. 6" shouldn't make a difference navigating tight areas, but welded boats are considerably heavier than riveted ones as they...

I think he meant not to tilt the motor up while you're out on the water - not just once you get the boat back on the trailer. Even while you're bobbing along on the water if you've got the motor tilted up you could get icing around the impeller if you have the lower unit tilted up out of the...

I've dabbled with it, it works, but the thin material boats are made from warps and distorts from the heat so you can't use it to fill leaking seams or anything you'd want to do with it. I used it to fill a gap along the corner where a deck sheet met the framing beneath less than perfectly and...

I'd attach that console to the ribbing of the boat or the bench seat, not to the FRP.

I was suggesting the FRP over polystyrene foam bought from a big box home improvement store. If you're using 2 part expanding you can use 2lb density foam w/ the FRP (that's what I used in my 1436 and it's held up fine to this day).

Did the fabricator leave the underside of the boat flat and smooth? They appear to be there to add stability in a turn would be my guess.

FRP panels is what you're talking about - they work great supported by foam. To build elevated decking sections you would need a three ply setup - with the area framed out you would top the framing with a layer of FRP, then add a layer of foam and a second layer of FRP. You should be able to...

I'm trying to find a plastic formula that's more durable. The chatter trailers are fantastic for generating hits, but the plastic I have is lousy at surviving them. I know I need to add a hardener to it, and the sections are actually quite hefty (not like the swimbait boot tails) so I think once...

I don't have any more of the smoke/pearl fluke bodies other than the one in the pic I added alongside the fish they caught, but they were to color match with these jigs I made as a generic swim jig that I could throw pretty much anywhere (even in the salt) and have confidence that it mimics some...

I've only tried one frankenbait so far and it wasn't that original a concept. Combined the basstackle.com 736 Craw with their 4" skirt grafted to the back. Comes out as basically an HD hulagrub:

I've been using molds I find on the cheap on Ebay as well as a handful of really nice ones that I've accumulated that can be ordered new through www.basstackle.com For instance, this is the mold I'm using to make the chatter trailers: https://www.basstackle.com/6008_Chatter_Trailer_p/6008-kj-1.htm

I've been using molds I find on the cheap on Ebay as well as a handful of really nice ones that I've accumulated that can be ordered new through www.basstackle.com For instance, this is the mold I'm using to make the chatter trailers:

I've got to get pics of the lures to go with each...but these were some of the year's highlights that I actually could find pictures of. All were on jigs/spinnerbaits that I made (poured/tied), with plastic trailers I poured on rods that I built. 5lb 11oz LMB Yellow perch bladed jig w/ golden...

You mentioned you have the same issue picking fish out on the image when they're in the rocks though right?

I'm usually looking a lot deeper than that - in that frame you're only in about 6 FOW +/-, I don't make a 2nd pass on the std sonar unless it's about 15' deep or more because you don't see that much of the bottom looking vertically down, and any shallower than that you're probably not seeing...

I got a pair of 1" ram mount balls with female 1/4-20 threads and took a 2' piece of PVC pipe and a 1/4-20 threaded rod and made a very long arm that could put my headunit in the front or rear without having to unplug it. Just needed a 3/4" rubber holder meant for storing your anchor light to...

Visibility while driving vs. floor space

Yes and no, you shouldn't leave a lead acid battery in a depleted charge condition for any length of time. Yes the battery is probably working for you, but you're probably shortening the useful life of it by not topping it off after each trip because it's not likely reaching a full charge off...

The carpet is enough to distribute the load so you can stand on it without dimpling the foam sheets? That's awesome!