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Ditto here - if you were supporting the boat with the 2x? edge up (narrow edge against the boat), the 2x6 would be stronger - but with the wide edge against the boat, there's really no difference in the strength of the board...2x4 will be fine.

My policy is to avoid the local lake ANY weekend from ice-out to ice-in. Tonka is one of the most popular recreation lakes in the state, and the 'traffic jams' in the canals between sections of it is proof. Plus the crazies are out - especially the wakeboats who don't pay attention to posted...

Ya, my old runabout had a clamp-on 40hp. Six years of running around, sometimes at WOT and it never slipped.

Long as it's clamped down tightly so it doesn't shift - there should be no problem with it.

I would seriously suggest it - hanging an engine off of 'screws' rather than through-bolting it can lead to a big headache.

Thanks - and yes, I'm not doing too much and resting when I start feeling 'worse'. I think I'm on the back-side of it though - I feel loads better today than I did just 3-4 days ago. I did take a couple days off of the work...reason I'm behind (more).

Slowly making progress - cockpit area is done. Vertical transition piece between this and the casting deck is being sealed, starboard casting deck is being sealed. The NOCO plug in will be mounted to the transition piece, that connects to the Genius 2 that's in the electrical compartment. I...

Oh he's not going anywhere. He owned/ran a tackle/baitshop with small outboard repair in the back here in town until business went down - kids would prefer to catch fish on their I-Phones than on the lake. So he 'retired' and runs the repair/rebuild business out of his garage. We've only got...

Still working on it - but it's starting to look 'more finished'. I'm also going to look at a 25hp Evinrude this afternoon - local guy (10 minutes from me) buys old OMC motors and rebuilds them - and he's OMC certified, so it's not a slap-dash type of job.

Scratch it - just got an e-mail from the seller...someone who came over to look at it today took it home with them. Back to the search.

I got a line on a 20HP Chrysler motor - thing is, my F-9 is a short transom (15") and this is a mid-shaft motor (17") Will that work or is even that extra 2" a bit much? Need answer quick...he's not gonna hold it long.

Vid showing my progress and current status of this build

Still making progress - the rod-locker cover is carpeted and in...the hatch is currently under pressure for the carpet-glue to set. Hole for lock is drilled, so tomorrow I'll probably install that. Starboard storage/electrical compartments cover will be glued to carpet tomorrow - livewell cover...

After I rebuilt the trailer for the F-9 - I got all the weight of the boat resting on the rollers with the bunks basically just leveling the boat. Then I put a floor-jack under each bunk bracket and lifted to touch..then just a titch more (1/8 of a pump?) to take just a bit of pressure off the...

Still moving along - got the cockpit floor carpeted - second piece to carpet is set and the glue is drying under pressure now. Shot of the colors - Upper part shows the interior/exterior hull color...just painting from the deck supports up. Like the previous post - the vertical parts are a...

If the ID numbers (reg or serial) are readable - might want to try to find the previous owner...they might want it back. Re-registering it without a valid bill of sale or title is just asking for trouble.

Not gonna make bass opener - but things are moving along. Starboard and port casting deck, rod locker cover, starboard rear storage cover are cut out and fitted. Need to cut/size the hatches in the casting deck and size the hatches for the storage cover. Floor, rod locker cover and hatch need...

It varies from state-to-state In MN - seller signs over the original title, putting in the buyer's name/address and amount on the back-side Buyer takes that to the DMV and applies for a new title. No need for a notary.

Cashier's Checks, Money Orders - both can be forged now-days with little effort. Getting the bank to clear it before title transfer is your best option.

I'd take it up with the BBB - contrary to 'popular' opinion, they really can help.